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Old Jul 10, 2014, 04:24 PM
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As a side note I knew I had seen this somewhere, wanted to throw it out to everyone. This is what the FT guys use to light up there builds. Should be able to be used for Tri's also.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
Here is a video of the FT guys using them.
http://flitetest.com/articles/airframe-lighting-tips
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Old Jul 19, 2014, 12:16 AM
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I hope this is okay to share...since this is my thread.

I'm selling T-shirts for 5 days. I know...but I need them in time for IRCHA.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2208897
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Old Aug 02, 2014, 01:17 PM
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Bumping for references, got tired of looking for it...
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Old Aug 02, 2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topdawg View Post
As a side note I knew I had seen this somewhere, wanted to throw it out to everyone. This is what the FT guys use to light up there builds. Should be able to be used for Tri's also.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
Here is a video of the FT guys using them.
http://flitetest.com/articles/airframe-lighting-tips
Not really good for Tri's since they have 4 wires instead of just 2, trying to get 2 wires on each set of lights is one thing when it is just pos and neg, these lights require a red ,green, blue, and white setup which is going to be 4 wires everywhere you make a cut/splice. But thanks for posting these as they are good for planes like the FT guys are using them for...I even have a set of these but have not used them yet. I thought about my Tri but it's just to much hassle. (for me)
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Old Aug 04, 2014, 11:32 PM
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does anyone have the dimensions of the camera tray handy? I've got 90mm by 40mm but that seems a little short?
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankster View Post
does anyone have the dimensions of the camera tray handy? I've got 90mm by 40mm but that seems a little short?
Did you watch this video again? I think the size of the camera tray is mentioned in there...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=27
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankster View Post
does anyone have the dimensions of the camera tray handy? I've got 90mm by 40mm but that seems a little short?
If you right click on the Thread Tools button at the top of this page and then open the Show all Attachments link in another page or tab, you can see all the attachments that have been posted in the thread. There are at least two of those attachments that show some info on camera boards.

I don't think that cpo ever specified the size or configuration of a board, the one that was in a sketchup file was from one of the posters to the thread. But I certainly defer to him as to what has been done or what would be good or best.

The image is a drawing I did of one of the boards, it has never been actually attached to this tri and used as a camera board.

Jack
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 08:28 PM
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Thanks badmoves and jackerbes for the info. I ended up copying the one from David at rcexplorer which works out to 40mm by 240mm with a wide section at the front for a gopro. I'll see how that goes on my build. Nearly complete.
I chopped 50mm off my standard booms and wondering if I should try them or start with the long booms first.
Jackerbes, just out of curiosity, what did you use to draw up the plate? I've starting learning sketchup but it requires you to purchase the pro version if you want to print out a 2D plan. For the 'tinkering' I plan to do, seems a bit of overkill.
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 09:57 PM
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I used QCAD, it is a great 2D drafting program and free too unless you want to add some add ins (I did not).

http://www.qcad.org/en/

It is a small program, run as a stand alone (it is not installed under windows, just unpacked and run from there). And if you were an old school on paper kind of draftsman you will love it.

It imports and export *.dxf files and also exports images and *.pdf files. Really a wonderful piece of open architecture software.

Jack
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 11:41 PM
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Thanks Jack, I had a quick look and it even runs on a mac.
Cheers
Darren
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 12:52 PM
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So, I'm fast ready with my little one. Pretty much fun building this one, thanks for the very helpfully videos.
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 02:55 PM
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Looking good my friend....
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Old Jan 13, 2015, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarman View Post
Some people have successfully used a single UBEC to power the KK2, the receiver and the servo. Some have tried it and experienced brown outs. Servos (especially digital servos) can create current spikes which in turn can cause a brown out or cause the KK2 to shutdown. By placing the servo on it's own UBEC, the servo can draw as much as it needs without effecting the receiver or the KK2.

I did the same as you and ordered ESCs without BECs. It's not that big of a deal. I Just bought a couple small 3A BECs and I'll wire them in. The added complexity and weight are negligible. One BEC powers the servo and the other BEC powers the KK2 and receiver. I almost tempted fate and ran everything off one BEC but after a lot of reading I decided it's just not worth it. A brown out would be far more costly. You can power it all off one BEC but you'd be taking a risk over a $4 part and a little extra wire.
I know that is has been nearly a year since you posted this. How did you go about wiring your two external bec?
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Old Jan 13, 2015, 09:27 PM
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If you are building a Tri, and I am assuming you are here..just leave a red power wire on the one going to the servo and on one going to the board, you can unhook the other 2 if you like. I just leave them all hooked to the board as they will not conflict with each other and it will not overpower it. If you have ESC's without the BEC then you need to go here to understand it better.. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=25 and I don't want to have to type all that out..
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Old Jan 13, 2015, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddmove View Post
If you are building a Tri, and I am assuming you are here..just leave a red power wire on the one going to the servo and on one going to the board, you can unhook the other 2 if you like. I just leave them all hooked to the board as they will not conflict with each other and it will not overpower it. If you have ESC's without the BEC then you need to go here to understand it better.. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=25 and I don't want to have to type all that out..
I understand that part. I think I have it figured out now. My ESC do not have internal bec. So I figured I would have to use a y connector on M1 the ESC and the external bec to power the board and the receiver then plug the second BEC in M8 to power the servo.. This sound correct? So motors 1, 2 and 3 plug into m1 (using a y conector the external bec as well into m1 ) m2 and m3, the servo plugs into m4 and the second bec plugs into m8
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