|Aug 04, 2013, 07:55 AM|
CFL New entry level Single Rotor Autogyro PDF and links to pre cut parts and rotors.
The CFL (Crane Fly Lite) has an easy to remove 34 " diameter, three blade folding rotor, and clip on undercarriage for convenient transport and storage. The simple light weight airframe is robust and, designed to take the inevitable knocks that learning to fly a single rotor model often involves. Great attention has been given to the control characteristics, and slow flight capability, to help maximise the chances of success for the first time Autogyro pilot.
After the model was flown at a well known Autogyro event it prompted model enthusiast engineers to set up production facilities for the delta flex plate, all the required GF parts, and rotor sets, the availability of these components should aid a quick accurate build and, should eliminate a lot of the uncertainty often experienced by pilots building an Autogyro for the first time. This model is not a commercial project for me, as the build guide and drawings have been compiled and formatted in PDF to be available to all without charge, take a look and see what you think.
The contact details for blades and other prefabricated parts will be posted within the next week or so. Do post comments and questions on this thread as any interest in this fascinating branch of our hobby is always welcome.
Link to the Crane Fly Lite flex plate and GF parts kit supplier. http://www.coolwind.co.uk/
Link to rotor blades supplier http://www.ajblades.co.uk/
|Sep 13, 2013, 12:56 PM|
AJ Blades have now opened their web shop, and are now shipping high quality auto gyro blade sets for a variety of models including the Crane Fly Lite .
The pre production sets I have flown to date have performed very well and required little or no balancing .
Coolwind have now added more Crane Fly Light universal parts to their shop.http://www.coolwind.co.uk/
|Sep 24, 2013, 05:39 PM|
Have built mine and maidened today.
Turnigy 2822/14 1450Kv (got them in a couple of planes, nice motors) 145W on a 7X4.5 with a 3 cell, also run nice with a 8X6 on 2 cells (may try that in CFL when flying nice).
MG9 Metal Gear for roll and a couple of 4.3g servos at backend.
6Ch HobbyKing Rx that works well with my FlySky TH9X.
Nanotech 1000mAh 3 cell.
Using a set of 450mm AJ Blades at required length, covered in thin tape weigh 23.8g each as fitted.
They do spin up nice with just a walk in a little breeze.
AUW ready to fly 16.7oz (475g) slightly over spec but close enough, my 10X10 Spruce has more cross section than suggested 12.5X6.5
plus motor is a little heavier than the suggested motor.
|Sep 27, 2013, 01:28 PM|
Joined Oct 2004
Well done Deyrick, nice looking machine.
Now we need a real objective Auto-G vs. CFL comparison.
There must be hundreds of newly hatched AG pilots out there who have cut their teeth on an Auto-G who may now be looking to move on to their first 'own built'.
|Oct 10, 2013, 03:04 PM|
Sorry I missed your post ,I have been busy building and trying to keep up with Mickey's posts over on his thread.
I have already done the comparison you suggest as I have an Auto - G and of course a CFL . but am I waiting some independent comparisons as my view might be seen as biased.
My personal opinion is that the CFL has better low speed performance and the control response gives more time for beginners to work out what input ,or not, is needed next . Of course as with any first time auto gyro experience disorientation is a major obstacle to overcome, so again the CFL can give more time to figure things out if flown in reasonable conditions and at low speed fairly close in, this does depend on the pilot getting the trim right and using the throttle to achieve the desired result. From the practical point of view I can definitely say the rotors and flex plate on the CFL are very robust.
|Oct 12, 2013, 01:35 PM|
I would agree with Tom's comparison although no expert and I have not flown the AutoG since i finished the CFL.
The Auto G does fly faster at cruise and seems to handle heavier in the air, the CFL seems to float in comparison and can easily hover stationary in a small breeze.
I intend to try a set of AJ blades on my Auto G and see what it is like then, I know Tom has used them on his and liked them.
|Oct 13, 2013, 08:04 PM|
Joined Nov 2004
I've found a few things in the plan that you may want to consider.
1) the instructions call for cladding the top of the mast on three sides with G10, but the diagram only shows two.
2) the cladding material seems to be missing from the head from the manufactured parts, or I was unclear about where to cut it from. There didn't seem to be enough material so I used some I had.
3) The routed parts are nice but confusing to identify because the PDF shows the parts not in the routed layout. The PDF needs an "as routed out" diagram to help identify.
4) It's easy to miss that the fin must have an angled cut on it for the elevator. This is confusing as generally the root chord of the fin matches the root chord of the stab for most "typical" designs. May be confusing to a beginner. Perhaps if the rudder/fin were drawn with the stab/elevator in side elevation view this would be a bit more obvious.
5) The exploded diagram on page 6 shows the relationships of the parts well enough but neither it nor the text seems to indicate if the fuse sides go "on" the fuse bottom or on the sides of the fuse. Printed build notes in black and white don't help much either, one has to to go the color version to see the grain patterns.
6) I couldn't find the GF plates to back up the landing gear screws in the routed parts.
7) I'm an aerospace engineer by training and I don't know what an Aquila airfoil is. Aquila is not a worldwide universal airfoil designation as far as I can tell. Simply provide an airfoil template.
8) It is very, very hard to tell where the blade shim goes, especially if you print the directions out in black and white.
9) The rudder tiller is nicely designed but seems over-engineered. Why not simply turn the rudder servo over and run a straight pushrod just clear of the stab to a normal horn on the rudder? Additionally the long run of unsupported wire is going to be spongy at best. If you are worried about the servo being struck just run the pushrod through a slot in the stab.
10) An overall model side view would be helpful.
Note that this are all minor, picky things, overall it's very nicely done.
|Oct 13, 2013, 09:16 PM|
Thanks for the informative feed back , your comments highlight how much work and attention needs to go into even the simplest of builds. Most plans or instructions invariably leave some things to the builders imagination and previous building experience so I hope the CFL PDF does meet a reasonable standard, for a none commercial design.
Your build has come on very quickly and is looking good I look forward to hearing how the work to complete the model goes.
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Discussion||New one design, 1 meter, entry level boat...||Capt.Crash||Sailboats||58||Mar 15, 2014 12:23 PM|
|Question||Best entry-level mini quad rotor?||RC360||Mini Multirotors||15||Aug 04, 2013 07:57 PM|
|Wanted||Entry Level FPV Gear||StickHack||FPV Equipment (FS/W)||11||Apr 19, 2013 05:19 AM|
|Question||The effect of coning on single rotor autogyros||Norfolk Flyer||Auto Gyros||38||Mar 13, 2009 05:28 PM|
|Discussion||10 gram single rotor autogyro - Micromonotwirl||alfoot||Scratchbuilt Indoor and Micro Models||6||Apr 09, 2007 11:01 PM|