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Old Dec 26, 2007, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patmat2350
Der Kap-

So THAT's what it's called?
Dang, I thought I saw one of these around here before...
.
Pat, I can't recall who mentioned that name to me, but the forgings for those bitts were made in Manitowoc.

Weren't those pix taken in Perrysburg, Ohio, at that regatta where it was so terribly HOT?
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Old Dec 26, 2007, 07:20 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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Yep!
And I know Microglass has plans for the steam G-tug to go with the hulls... anyone have plans for the dieselized vesion?

Pat
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Old Dec 26, 2007, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patmat2350
Yep!
And I know Microglass has plans for the steam G-tug to go with the hulls... anyone have plans for the dieselized vesion?

Pat
Dieselized, that is the one I'd like to do!
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Old Dec 27, 2007, 07:10 PM
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Plating, Plan B

Well, paint just isn't going to build up those edges that I need for the inner strakes' plate laps. Maybe ok for a 1:350 model, but it wasn't going to come close to matching the wood strip outer strakes' lap thickness. I don't need to get quite that thick, it's just an illusion, a hint of lap-ness that I'm after.

Plan B: Use glazing putty instead! Added benefit- no stink. A bit of work, as there are about 24 laps per side to build and sand.

Here are the first two trials... a little more work needed, but I think it will do.

Also- the laps need to fall between ribs. On the real boat, there are lines of rivets where ever a plate crosses a rib, a double row at each lap (which can't be located at a rib), and a row holding each strake to the next. And all these rivets are going on the model!

So to locate the laps, and later the rivet lines, I need the ribs' locations traced onto the hull. Using the original plans, I marked out each rib location along the bulwarks. The cradle holds the boat with waterline level and ribs vertical, as per the original. So I tried using a square to trace the ribs... hopeless, too far away, my pencil wandered all over.

Better solution? Maybe a laser, but having none, I used a string with a plumb bob and a lamp. As long as the keel is square to the line from lamp to string, the shadow will fall perfectly onto the curved hull. Simple to trace the shadow from there!

Pat M
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Old Dec 28, 2007, 11:07 AM
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Pat,

Speaking of rivets, did you receive your rivet making kit yet? Kinda interested in how this kit works out.
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Old Dec 28, 2007, 02:01 PM
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Got it, tried a few lines of rivets on scrap- seems to work. More later!

Pat
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 07:02 PM
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OK, finish sanded the putty laps on one side and hit a couple with primer to see how they'd look. Well, could be more better, but I take comfort in knowing that the differences in lap thicknesses are less apparent when the hull is upright, with the surfaces angling away from the eye.

Figured I'd also try some rivets. See below, and in the Starwood Rivet kit review at:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=793368

Again, more practice needed, but I'm sure to get that in good time.

Pat M
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 08:57 PM
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I think it looks very convincing, Pat!
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 09:19 PM
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Stern Posts

Found a really cool image of a stern post, shown during the construction of the Edmund Fitzgerald (below) and at:
http://www.glmi.org/fitz/gallery/index_2.htm
She was built at the Great Lakes Engineering Works, just as with Dearborn.

The posts would be giant single castings incorporating the lower shaft bearing boss, the rudder footing (below), lower rudder post boss (above), and the stern post itself.

Shell plating is then either riveted to the post (as on Dearborn) or welded. In fact, from the stern post, along the keel, and all the way up the stem, the plating is riveted from both sides to create a pinched seam, sort of like a big steel ravioli (although here in Detroit, a pierogi comes to mind...).

Here are a couple other images of ships where this was the construction method. I'm trying to replicate the look on Dearborn, although it ended up a little too fat...

Pat M
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerominded
I think it looks very convincing, Pat!
Ditto!

What the hell are those pastries?
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Old Dec 31, 2007, 10:05 AM
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Tom, you're obviously not Polish... my wife is, and pierogis is just one of the reasons I married her!
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Old Dec 31, 2007, 11:29 AM
Grumpa Tom
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Ahhh, they sound tasty!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierogi
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Old Dec 31, 2007, 10:13 PM
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Any rivet counters out there?

Did I say zillions of rivets? OK, may just a bucket-load.

After all the puttying, sanding, and repriming, I needed to re-mark the rib lines. Didn't care to repeat the string and light exercise, too fuzzy a line (can't get the lamp far enough away). So I got a laser, works great. My eyes feel a little funny though.

Then got going with the riveter, using the medium tip. Didn't use up much glue, but now my fingers and wrist feel a little funny from all the riveting action. And only one side done!

Looks ok, will look even better after another coat of primer and some level-sanding.

Amazing thought: On the real boat, someone was positioning 12 foot long 3/8" thick steel plates, drilling 3/4" holes through two plate thicknesses FOR EACH RIVET, and chamfering them too. Then the riveting team goes to work:
- The heater grabs a red hot rivet from the fire and tosses it to a catcher;
- The catcher scoops up the rivet in a can, grabs it with his tongs, and places it in a hole;
- Another guy steps in with a heavy buck, or anvil, and holds that against the rivet head;
- While from the other side, the riveter picks up his pneumatic rivet gun and smacks the red hot protruding end down.

Now the rivet cools, shrinking tight against the plates.

And repeat...
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Old Dec 31, 2007, 10:21 PM
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Very nice work, Pat!

1:1 building in steel does sound like it was hard work but those were good paying jobs!

Pierogis, now there is an excellent "comfort food"
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Old Jan 02, 2008, 10:10 PM
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Oil port

So easy to get distracted... I was going to work on the rub rail today, ended up making a working scuttle for oiling the prop shaft.

There's an 18" scuttle (manhole, really) on the afterdeck... you can just make it out, the engineer is standing on it. I made one as a flat disk, and was ready to glue it down to the deck.

But then I started messing with some fittings for an oil tube to the prop shaft... couldn't figure out a good place to locate the fill cup, until I noticed the scuttle was just about right over the prop shaft. Aha!

Machined a big cup with a lip out of PVC (I sure love having a lathe!), and a nice heavy scuttle cover out of brass. Even made a working lifting ring that falls flush into a hole, don't want to trip anyone.

I have a tube fitting with female pipe threads, I'll just use that as the fill cup. The tube fittings, top and bottom, are the instant-push connect type... they have no inner nipple to obstruct the oil drip, they just seal on the OD of the 1/4" polyethylene tubing that I use. Otherwise, the thick oil that I like to use just sits at the top of the tube and won't drain down.

PM
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