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Old Apr 29, 2014, 11:24 PM
Thermal Wrangler
DrFragnasty's Avatar
Launceston Tasmania
Joined Mar 2004
2,061 Posts
This YouTube video proved useful for when I made my Vac Forming "machine":

XRobots - How to build a vacuum forming machine including my easy heating solution (9 min 5 sec)
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Old Apr 30, 2014, 07:41 PM
Registered User
Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
601 Posts
Using a reject canopy to check fit. It is a reject because of webbing on the right front corner.
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Old Apr 30, 2014, 10:41 PM
Great, kid! Don't get Cocky!
HahnSolo's Avatar
Joined Sep 2006
515 Posts
Hi Scott:

Looks like you went down the same path as me. After I stripped, re-sanded, and re-glassed my foam plug, there was no way I was going to try another vacuum pull on it.

For those who are watching this build log, here is the process I used for casting my repaired canopy plug with Ultracal 30:
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Old Jun 09, 2014, 01:53 PM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
601 Posts
I have received some more photos of CGU from the owner. These are specifically the cockpit interior.

The first 2 photos from my files show a "standard" Oly 2b cockpit.
The next 4 are of the CGU cockpit. This is a very clean old sailplane.

I asked the owner why the interior was sheeted; here is his answer:
"The fill-in you have seen in photos is because the cockpit area was repaired some time ago with a plywood skin on the inside of the original formers. So the finish is not quite standard, but this does protect the interior from "Big Feet" damage."

As this is supposedly a sport scale model, in spite of some of my over-enthusiasm, and because I have already done most of the cockpit work, I have decided not to sheet the inside. I will, however, add the handhold at the front, the trim lever on the right, the airbrake lever on the left, and the aerotow release. The approximate paint colors (gray and green) will also be used. I will call this slightly controlled over-enthusiasm!
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Old Jun 09, 2014, 04:46 PM
quickee
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United States, UT, Sandy
Joined Jul 2005
660 Posts
Great Job -Love the detail
KEEP IT UP SOAR UTAH will be here soon
-Ron-
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Old Jun 26, 2014, 04:23 PM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
601 Posts
Covering

Got involved in another non-modeling woodworking project, but here I am again!

The flying surfaces are being covered with Sig Koverall. Sig Stix-It, a heat activated adhesive, is used around the outside edges and on the undercambered ribs to adhere the Koverall. While shrinking the fabric on the first wing half I discovered an error around the airbrake servo box—there is no place to attach the covering inboard of the ply servo cover. I will fix that on this wing after a couple of coats of dope. On the uncovered wing, I will put in some balsa for covering attachment.

Will be back when all surfaces are covered and have 2 coats of nitrate dope on them. I am still planning on having this flying for Soar Utah 2014 over Labor Day weekend.
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Last edited by shinck; Jul 04, 2014 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2014, 11:05 AM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
601 Posts
On the uncovered left wing, my fix for the lack of a place to attach the fabric covering next to the airbrake servo hatch.
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Last edited by shinck; Jul 05, 2014 at 12:00 AM.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 06:32 PM
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Utah, USA
Joined Jun 2007
601 Posts
Fin fairing

While getting the tail surfaces ready for covering, I decided to fit the fin fairing.

Shane, one of the designers from Australia, had made a mold for the fairing and kindly sent me one in lightweight glass, with the approximate trim lines drawn in pencil. This is why I was able to put the control rod on the top of the elevator.

Cliff Charlesworth uses solid balsa to make the fairing, with a separation line at the front of the fin. This would work fine for a bottom-actuated elevator.

I have included some full-size Oly photos to show the attachment of the glass fairing.
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