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Old Feb 29, 2012, 02:03 PM
Power-line attraction pilot
United States, MA, Natick
Joined Jun 2011
517 Posts
Well i can assure you the 5889 is complete garbage... after one flight the tail motor started spazzing... the heli just spins in circles now regardless of trim. A new receiver board didn't fix anything either. trash trash trash.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 08:23 AM
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Zurich
Joined Apr 2006
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Well, my experience with maybe 20 or so 5888s keeps me loving them [for the price & flying experience]:

4 or 5 were amazing and PERFECT and some I improved to perfection

I killed the PCBs of maybe 4 while first learning what NOT to do [un-resolderable PCB wires, ruined PCB chips or components caused by stalling servos while adjusting blades, etc.]

3 I gave away as presents after tuning & tracking

the rest either died of old age after 3 - 4 motor & servo changes and LOTS of flying or I still have >

I now have 7 >

2 SUPER [1 red & 1 blue] hot ones and a very good repaired [Marcel-customer abused] one in cold storage, 2 insanely-hot SUPER [R, B] ones in ready-to-use easy-access "storage", and 2 "OK" others, repaired from Marcelīs customer's or my own abuse, which I careless fly all the time ....


Lee
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 08:27 AM
Power-line attraction pilot
United States, MA, Natick
Joined Jun 2011
517 Posts
I am glad you are still so fetishly addicted to these 5888, but unfortunately, Chinese junk with aluminum frame decoration will never find a place on my shelf at home EVER again. They are very poorly designed, unnecessarily heavy, poor durability and tolerance on rotating components, and use cheap/old technology. Its ALWAYS worth it spending a little more on something that doesn't have aluminum crap on it. See aluminum body "panels" - stay away.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:34 AM
Sir Crashalot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caall99 View Post
I am glad you are still so fetishly addicted to these 5888, but unfortunately, Chinese junk with aluminum frame decoration will never find a place on my shelf at home EVER again. They are very poorly designed, unnecessarily heavy, poor durability and tolerance on rotating components, and use cheap/old technology. Its ALWAYS worth it spending a little more on something that doesn't have aluminum crap on it. See aluminum body "panels" - stay away.
Yeah, quality control in manufacturing is not one of 5888's strong suits. But give it a chance and it may just grow on ya. In fact, that's part of its appeal, it's a delight to see this seemingly over-weight POS actually fly, and fly quite well when sufficiently tweaked.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 12:38 PM
Power-line attraction pilot
United States, MA, Natick
Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
Yeah, quality control in manufacturing is not one of 5888's strong suits. But give it a chance and it may just grow on ya. In fact, that's part of its appeal, it's a delight to see this seemingly over-weight POS actually fly, and fly quite well when sufficiently tweaked.
Well my POS 5888 only flew because i tweaked the "expletive" out of it. I can still enjoy it for a couple minutes here and there, but once i stepped up to quality, i hardly find myself looking back anymore. In some regards the Chinese build these helicopters with one purpose in mind, looks... underneath all the BS is a perfectly capable flying machine that if tweaked from the factory (both in manufacturing and design) would be an excellent bang for the buck.

Granted soft aluminum is cheaper than plastic injection molding, but often you will notice that almost all the aluminum can be removed from these helis and the frame will still remain intact. With small tweaks a toy heli can become hobby grade, and it wouldn't even cost the factory much more money.

My vote for GT 5888 and 5889 and all other chinese flying crap machines is two thumbs down.

<end of rant>
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 07:29 AM
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Zurich
Joined Apr 2006
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Personally, having spent so much time in China, I appreciate and actually really LIKE the look of the 5888 [shiny metal, simple non-compound curves, which I NEVER use in my own designs, some of which have won industrial design awards, one for me and Boeing].

I got addicted because by dumb luck the first 2 that I bought [and in over-priced Switzerland, they cost one-FIFTH of the much higher quality Blade helis, which are also made in China, b.t.w.!] worked unusually great. It was when I bought a 3rd as a spare that I found out that most of them are OK but definiterly not GREAT. Also, I might point out that many of the 5888s I got were 2nd-hand returns costing only 10 or 20 bucks, and I got two free helis plus a funny UFO [a copy of one of my OWN toy designs] from ToyTown after someone told me to point out to them that they used my silly YouTube video in their advertising.

Anyway, fitting with my nature, I slowly and painstakingly found out how to make most of them GREAT. And I mean that they then hop & spring through the air, almost as fast as a lightweight 4-ch micro CP. High-speed banked horizontal "8"s [TWO times fasted than that YT vid, which was when I was first learning all this], even in reverse, realistic because of the weight and great usable power finally "unleashed". I wouldn't DARE try that in such a small space with another design. But of course ONLY possible when "modded" per my tips > tuned & tracked to perfection.

And that is what I have tried to pass on to others who might be interested in having a great but low-cost heli.


"more than one candybar ...."

Lee
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Spinning problem

Hi guys
Came to use my 5888 yesterday after a long lay off.

Charged the battery and started to fly but seemed like the battery was running down after just a few seconds.

Chraged both my batteries and tried againbut had the same effect.

I noticed that the whole heli was starting to spin around when I throttled it up on a table top and also that the top rotor seemed sluggish to start spinning. Seems like there just isn't enough lift going on.

So do you think my top rotor motor has lost its power and needs replacing or is it a battery problem ? My guess is the first one.
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by gbjbasdw View Post
Hi guys
Came to use my 5888 yesterday after a long lay off.

Charged the battery and started to fly but seemed like the battery was running down after just a few seconds.

Chraged both my batteries and tried againbut had the same effect.

I noticed that the whole heli was starting to spin around when I throttled it up on a table top and also that the top rotor seemed sluggish to start spinning. Seems like there just isn't enough lift going on.

So do you think my top rotor motor has lost its power and needs replacing or is it a battery problem ? My guess is the first one.
My guess is that the the left motor is dying, since the right motors wear out much less than the left ones. Here's how to test for LIPO capacity >

1. Let the heli run down the battery, checking periodically to see if the motors are getting hot, and stopping when the rotors really almost don't want to speed up as you restart or at the auto cutoff.

2. Then recharge. It should take at least an hour to recharge from the supplied wall charger [I scrap my LIPOs when the are so quickly recharged, indicated a lot of lost capacity, normally caused by not leaving the LIPO with 80% charge when not in use]. Most of my LIPOs take 70 - 85 mins to recharge even after a year of steady use.

So if your LIPO takes 40 - 50 min for a full charge from the wall charger, it is trash now. I don't use the Tx to charge, so I don't know how long a normal charge should really take that way.

Lee
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 11:13 AM
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I nevr had a wall charger with mine - just a cable to connect to a USB socket. I charge mine up from my desktop PC.

I fitted a brand new battery this morning which I bought a while ago from China. It has a different number on it to the original and another one I purchased. It is still a 3.7V 190mAh battery of the same physical size.

I tried using the new battery BUT the red light on the charge cable didn't go RED after around 50 minutes so I may not have had it fully charged I guess.

The result was the same - the heli started to retate counter-clockwise.

I'll try charging the battery for 90 minutes to see if the red light comes on and report back.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 08:56 AM
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So I tried charging the new battery again last night and the red "charge finished" light did come on but strangely it was not as bright as it normally is with the original battery and another identical one I purchased. This new battery I am trying is a 190mAh capacity so I odn't know if that would account for it or not.

Tried the heli again but it still rotates counter-clockwise. The trim and rudder control has little/no effect.

Another odd thing is that the rudder trim buttons don't seem to change pitch as I press them. All the other trim buttons increase/descrease in pitch as they are pressed.

I've also tried to throttle up with the rudder stick over to the right ( as per instructions on this thread ) without any effect.

I think it could be the motor going bad. I think I may have to resort to ordering some from China next week. Anyone know of a video/pictures that show how to change a motor over ?
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 09:02 AM
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well-proven motor changing procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbjbasdw View Post
I think it could be the motor going bad. I think I may have to resort to ordering some from China next week. Anyone know of a video/pictures that show how to change a motor over ?
1. Loosen the motor hold-down piece and rotate to allow the motor to come up and out.

2. Loosen the swashplate yaw stabilizer fork piece and pull upward enough to allow the motor to pass it.

3. Push the motor up from underneath with a sharp toothpick or the point of a small pair of scissors. Push on the MOTOR, not the shaft, if you ever want to use the motor again! Let the motor hang over the side by its wires.

4. Unscrew and CAREFULLY remove the canopy

5. Put CA gel [NOT liquid!!] copiously around all the PCB soldered wire joints, and on the wire ends of the LEDs inside the canopy. Allow to HARDEN!
[The idea is to strongly link the wire-end insulation to the PCB or the LED. It is far too easy to otherwise break off the joint .... and nearly impossible to properly resolder! To resolder the LED, one must first carefully pry out the LED from behind].

6. Unwind and separate the motor wires [if you didn't use CA gel first, at this point you could kill the heli]. Use a small pair of scissors to cut the motor wires of the motor you will replace, noting that left and right motors are different and cannot be interchanged > cut the wires about 7cm/2.5" from the PCB joint, leaving this short amount to use to connect the new motor wires [instead of trying to solder to the PCB].

7. Strip the ends of the short wires still connected to the PCB.

8. Tin/pre-solder all four wire ends to be soldered > leave as large a blob of solder as practical on each end.

9. Carefully thread the new motor wires exactly as the other factory-installed motor. A sharp toothpick and pincet/tweezers are necessary.

10. NOW push the motor down and in place and re-lock it and push down the swashplate yaw stabilizer fork and retighten both screws.

11. Make a cardboard shield to protect the heli and ESPECIALLY the LIPO!!

12. Pull the wire ends through a slot in the shield and butt-solder red-red and blue-blue [I assume you will replace the long-shafted right motor now].

13. Make sure the wires are well clear of the rotor and turn on the Tx and heli.

14. Check that the LEDs and servos still work, else they must be resoldered
[extremely unlikely if you used CA gel in 5. above!].

15. Quickly check that both motors work, and turn off heli & Tx.

16. Put the shield back in place and put glob of CA gel around the joints for insulation and strength and heat-cure with a hairdrier.

17. Don't re-twist the wires, just carefully stuff them to the side and slightly in front of the LIPO.

18. Carefully re-install the canopy

19. Make sure the pinion is in optimal vertical location: slide up/down to test, holding heli inverted and turning rotor in REVERSE by hand.

20. Re-lube gears.

21. Test-fly!


I can do this in about 40 min for one motor and 70 min for both.


Lee
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Thanks for the detailed description, Lee.

I would have tried taking the metal side panels off first without your help ! Now I know they come out of the top of the heli.

I'll take your advice of the PCB connections as I too have had the fun of resoldering wires onto it !

I have some small bore shrink insulation which I will use over the soldered joints instead of CA though.

In 19. why do you say to turn the motor in REVERSE and not in its normal direction ( I presume you mean by rotating the rotor blades ) ?

All I need now is my new motors from China.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by gbjbasdw View Post
I have some small bore shrink insulation which I will use over the soldered joints instead of CA though.

In 19. why do you say to turn the motor in REVERSE and not in its normal direction ( I presume you mean by rotating the rotor blades ) ?
1. The CA gel is much lighter weight, and stronger, for the same weight [i.e., for the same strength, the shrink insulation must be thicker & heavier].

2. Inverting the heli simulates the rotor lift and puts the gears, etc., in flight position, in which the gear-teeth push from the "front" wall of the pinion's gear-teeth to the "rear" wall of the main gear's teeth. Rotating in reverse simulates the motor's force on the rotor gears [Isaac Newton] > gears are designed for one direction of rotation: try this and you'll find a difference in resistance to turning .... and only ONE direction is used for flight.

L
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 08:04 AM
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vibration, tuning and performance

A TOP Lockheed helicopter engineer once told me that his main job was tracking down and eliminating EVERY vibration. Vibration severely limits performance, eating energy, and drastically shortens the life of the heli.

That's why I go to such pains to adjust the 80+% of these 5888s that are not perfect O.O.T.B.!

And because every individual 5888 blade and mechanical part is different, it is necessary to compensate with selected parts from dead helis, or new parts or to modify those parts, such as micro-bending or twisting the alu plates and filing the too-often thicker end of the plastic pieces that are sandwiched between the plates, etc.

And to try diff. blades, swapping the blades " 180° ", trying diff links, esp. the upper link [only use ONE!!], moving the link to the other side, finding which ball on the stabilizer bar is larger, BALANCING the stab. bar [often swapping or changing scress is enough], trying diff pinions, inverting the pinions ....

until everything is silky smooth, with NO resistance by hand and NO vibration in flight.


Try it ... you'll love it!


Lee
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 08:41 AM
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GOOD engineering vs "bad" production

I now have EIGHT very good or great 5888's.

This time I got a Marcel-killed one for 10 bucks [he gets them for ca. 20]; he thought it only needed a new left motor. Actually I had to replace BOTH motors ... plus the entire rotor system, including new perfectly matched blades (same elliptical dihedral, plus equal torsion when hand-tiwsted = same wt.!) and gears.

Of course, if this heli had been carefully and properly adjusted, tracked & tuned from the start [when the rotor disc L.E. looks razor-sharp and the heli sounds like a Swiss sewing machine, it is a totally different machine!!], NO new parts would be needed, except matched blades to "up" the performance. But for zero or 10 bucks net (if he sells it to me for 20 or 10) .... Marcel has the right to treat them like throw-away toys, and I appreciate the "gift" of potentially GREAT helis!


So, starting w/ new parts, except for having to [typically!] file one end of one of the plastic pieces sandwiched beteen the alu plates so that the plates have equal spacing for both blades [over-tightening the bolts to try to equalize is what STRIPS the plates!], resolder the antenna and replace the bent rear "horizontal stabilizer", choose and adjust new pinions, all I had to do was follow my much-posted "rules" [observations & findings] .... and it went from "won't fly" to PERFECT >


The point is, the 5888 is very well engineered, but the low-cost real-world tooling, prdn. & assembly far overrides that. So, with a lot of love & patience [and extra parts, some from killed helis > save yours!] it's possible to get a truly wonderful heli!

My 4 "hyper" ones are pure hair-edge fun, requiring concentration, and the two very good ones are relaxing fun (they fly a little better than the one in that birthday party YouTube vid) .... but these last two are like a dream come true: they go exactly where I want, FAST [much faster than that vid, but not crazy/hyper fast], won't spin-in even in 17° - 20° banked circles, sound perfect .... and well, they are PERFECT.


GREAT design, well worth "messing with" [for those who really care!].



Lee
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