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Old Dec 25, 2014, 07:35 PM
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Knoxville, TN
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Fatshark Receiver board chip identification

I was taking apart my Fatshark goggles to clean them out and noticed this chip lying in the bottom of the goggles case. I don't know if the chip popped off while I was disassembling it or if it has been off for a while. If it has been off for a while, which I think is the more likely case, then I haven't noticed any problems as a result of this chip being off the receiver board.

Fatshark goggles version.. this is the first Fatshark version that came with the built in ImmersionRC receiver. The chip says 470 7m whatever that means. El Goog didn't help me much on this.

Does anyone know what this chip is for and whether or not it is critical before I power this thing back up? I can solder it back in place I think.. but it looks like the pads came completely off the board with the chip and I don't see any traces on one side where it connects. If you do know what this chip is.. do you know what orientation it should be in?

Many thanks and Merry Christmas
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Old Dec 25, 2014, 09:07 PM
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United States, GA, Kennesaw
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it is a chip cap (capacitor) and does indeed look like the traces were torn up with the component.
It can be repaired, but is not something that would be easy for a novice to do.
No, it will not hurt the unit to be powered up with this component missing.
Based on location and value, it is likely just a filter cap on the video out and you may or may not see any degradation in normal performance when using the built in display.
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Old Dec 25, 2014, 10:36 PM
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Thanks much for the reply Qwin. Any idea the orientation of this cap? Should the gray bar go toward the printed 'c13' or away from it? I'm planning on scratching off some of the green to get to the copper, soldering on small wires and then soldering those wires to the cap.
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Old Dec 25, 2014, 11:59 PM
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Found out gray bar side goes away from the c13.. or toward the end that narrows on the board.
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Old Yesterday, 03:09 AM
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United States, ID
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It's just a power supply cap. Not worth risking anything over it. Success highly unlikely.
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Old Yesterday, 07:11 AM
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I agree with jakestew...unless you are confident that you can repair it, you may do more damage by trying.
(SMD repair like this is not necessarily hard, but does require some specialized solder skill/knowledge)

And if it is working without the cap now, there is no upside to trying.
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Old Yesterday, 04:12 PM
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He's got no pads left. You'll have to scrape away the soldermask, flux and tin the trace, then try to solder to it.

You've got one decent try that I might try, if you don't really care about the board that much. Move the cap 1-1.5 pad widths to the left. Grind away the ground plane around the + side then sand the soldermask off the trace. That will be your + pad. Then grind off a spot for the - pad. Now just SMT solder like usual.

That's the only way you'll end up with anything decent. Trying to chase traces usually doesn't work, you'll just end up burning and lifting them as you go, and if you ever do get a jumper wire soldered to them it will quickly rip them up.

If I was doing this for a customer I'd just grab a 470uf PTH cap and solder one lead to the jack plug and one to the ground, then hot glue/silicon/epoxy the cap to the board.
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