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Old Feb 26, 2013, 06:37 PM
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Martin Irvine's Avatar
Canada, ON, Kingston
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1/4 scale Nieuport 17 - Flight video added

After a recent, (and ongoing) foray into indoor flying, I decided to start up on another large scale airplane. Not as big as my Aviatik DI – but still fairly large. In the end I decided on another Nieuport – this time a ¼ scale Nieuport 17. Lots of history and probably the most successful of their designs. There is a Balsa USA kit but it is not very scale, so I started one of my own.

I have a couple of 6S4900 packs so first looked at several older Graupner Ultra gear and belt drive systems I have, but ended choosing a Cyclon 110 outrunner. I hope to build it light enough for me to use a single 6S pack. The BUSA kit comes out at 12-14lb and there have been several electric conversions of their kits as light as 12 lb. A 22V pack drawing 40A gives 880W which would be good for 10-11lb With homemade wheels and the same construction as my 68” Nieuport 12, I think I might be able to do it. Just in case, I’m designing it with the possibility of going to 12S, which the Cyclon can handle.

I used drawings from Bergan Hardesty, (available from WWI Aero-http://www.ww1aeroinc.org/index.html ), as well as the WWI Rosendaal drawings (also from WWI Aero) > http://www.finemodelworks.com/arizon...7_Fuselage.jpg . The Datafile (#20) is also good, and has excellent photo reductions of the Rosendaal drawings as well as Ian Stairs' own 3 –views. There also a fair bit on the web - http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Mil...ort/index.html and http://users.skynet.be/fa233213/En/R...ort/Nie23.html
Lots of colour profiles on the net, but I have decided on this one from French Aircraft of the First World War - http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...EUPORT17-1.jpg .I’ll do the upper scheme, that of Georges Guynemer

First step was to make a cowling. The BUSA version is 9.5” in diameter rather than the scale 10.25”. I was hopeful that the 10.25” Camel cowling from Mick Reeves would do but the profile is much too blunt for the Nieuport. So a new cowling was in order. The photos below show progress so far.

(Whoops, slightly out of sequence!)

Martin
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Last edited by Martin Irvine; Jun 24, 2014 at 10:58 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 07:33 PM
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Wow! This will be a beauty. clearly though you have a large Empty basement :-)
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 04:05 AM
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Very cool. Those drawings on Finemodel works are great aren't they.

I will be watching this VERY closely as it progresses.

Cheers,

Hugh
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 06:58 AM
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Very closely indeed!
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 10:15 AM
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 08:39 PM
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Canada, ON, Kingston
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The cowling is glassed. I used West systems 105 resin and 205 hardener. This is quality stuff that always works and never goes out of date, (this is 15-18 years old!). I did three layers of 10oz. cloth with carbon tow around the base and the front opening.

Once cured, I sanded it with 60 grit paper and trowelled on a layer of resin mixed with micro balloons to the consistency of peanut butter squeegeed with a credit card cut to the cowling profile.

This was sanded and another layer put on and squeegeed with a plywood arc of the same curvature as the outer diameter. Between these two shapers, once sanded the cowling feels very consistent. before this step I could feel the bumps and flats from the glass overlaps.

A final sanding showed a few areas where the glass was showing so I flooded those with thin CA. Then any divots were filled with auto body putty, (solvent type) and sanded when dry.

All of these steps where accelerated by putting into a warm oven, (my wife is very understanding, as she should be- I do most of the cooking!)

Martin
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 11:22 PM
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Canada, ON, Kingston
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Thanks for the comments guys. I'm hoping to keep the momentum going and actually get it done this summer.

Here's the cowling with a couple of coats of primer. Obviously it still needs some sanding yet. I'm leaving it on the mold for a few days to be sure the cure is complete. Popping out a piece while it's still "green" risks distortion. Same with the primer - sand it too soon and it continues to shrink and you find it needs to be done again a week later.

Martin
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 11:18 PM
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Canada, ON, Kingston
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Got the rudder and rear fuselage finished today I used 1/4" basswood stripped to .040 (1mm) to laminate the outline using the outline cut out of 3/4" pine.


Martin

Dang, the captions didn't load, (or did I forget?)
First photo is of the clamping setup for laminating the outline of the rudder - 1/4" X .040" (1mm) basswood, glued with yellow carpenters' glue.
Second is of the almost completed rudder. I am waiting for Tufnol sheets from Toni Clark to make the horns. I'll probably add a gusset at the bottom to reduce possible wrinkling of the covering.
Third shows the rear fuselage. The 1/32" plywood reinforcement, (scale) is quite light and adds a lot of strength. The 1/16" ply stab mount has 3 4-40 blind nuts glued in to allow the stab to be adjusted or removed if necessary.
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 05:22 PM
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United States, MI, Canton
Joined Sep 2002
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Hi Martin, just found this thread, will watch along....always nice to see how the "Experts" build. I like the cowl and tail feather jig.

Denny
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Old Mar 13, 2013, 02:48 AM
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Hi Martin, could you please describe your jointing method for the internal structure of the stabilizer and elevator, I can see some reinforcement of the butt joins and wonder how they are done.

hugh.
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Old Mar 13, 2013, 07:39 AM
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Old Mar 13, 2013, 06:57 PM
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Canada, ON, Kingston
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Hi Hugh,
The end of the cross pieces were slotted about 3/8" for a 1/2" sq of 1/32" ply. The matching area of the leading edge and spar were also slotted about 1/8" deep and 1/2" wide. Once everything is assembled, a touch of thin CA locks it all in place. you can radius the ply with a small sanding drum in a Dremel tool to make it look better.
The cross pieces that have the horns embedded in them are basswood to help take the load better. You can see how the ply is spread wider to deal with the higher loads.

Martin
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