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Old May 02, 2006, 05:29 AM
GOK
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Turkey, Izmir
Joined Aug 2005
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GWS DC-3 Build questions

I am just about to start my build on GWS DC-3/C-47 kit. I have the unpainted version with 2x300H motors. I will be powering it with the stock props and 2s 1800 mah 12c rated lipos. I will attempt to dress her up in Royal Australian Air Force colours using So-lite iron on film covering (I got the inspiration from "Kensp's" C47).

I have used this material with my P51 and my TM400 previously and am very very happy with the results I got. Very minimal weight gain (in some cases even less weight than just painting) with attractive looks and a considerable amount of strength.

I know numerous build threads have been done for this plane and I have read most all of them, but all the ones I could find were quite old and I haven't run into any recent ones.

So if there is any interest I will be happy to turn this into a build thread with photos at every major stage. If I end up doing this it will be my first build thred

Here are the things I picked up from the C47 threads I've read, which I am going to apply to my build:

-Shorten the ailerons (not sure how much though)?
-Shorten the elevator. I am still undecided about this mod! (if I cut the elevator do I have to shorten the rudder as well?)
-Put some downthrust to the motors (What exactly is this? how much? and when?) This will sound silly but I just can't be sure Does downthrust mean tilting the motors down or up?

Should I do this when gluing the motor mount sticks or do that stage per manual and add some washers or something to the screws attaching the motor to the plastic mount later on?

-Make sure the dihedral angle between two wings is the same.

-Move the CG back to approx. 70mm from leading edge

-Maybe bend the LG whires a bit forward to prevent nose overs?

Am I missin anything?

Any help and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

GOK
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Old May 02, 2006, 10:26 AM
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Bellevue, WA
Joined Feb 2005
959 Posts
I built mine almost completely stock and it flies wonderfully. I don't see why you'd have to shorten any of the control surfaces at all. Mine flies like an eagle.

I would say those are 2 unneeded mods.
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Old May 02, 2006, 10:58 AM
IAMCANADIAN
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Canada, BC, Squamish
Joined Jul 2002
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Subscribing GOK. I'm in the middle of this 'build' so I'm interested in watching yours. My project is currently shelved, probably for the flying season (which is now on the top half of the world eh.)

I shortened the ailerons from both the tips and the roots for 2 reasons. First a few other threads talked about a tip stall issue. Shortening the aileron about 2-4cm back from the tip is an attempt to address this. Aileron hanging down at the tip would tend to promote a stall. Second, and more importantly for me, is scale appearance. I think the elevator mod is also done mostly for scale appearance, the model seems to have huge elevators. Wish I'd a seen the scale rudder lines before I cut mine.

As seems to be normal with GWS, the model has many 'departures' from scale. Some of which are obviously to make a better flying model (deeper cord, enlarged tail areas, thicker airfoils), some to make the kit easy to assemble (strip ailerons, tailwheel position), some perhaps for production cost reasons (shape of cowls).
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Old May 02, 2006, 11:01 AM
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Calgary Alberta, Canada
Joined Oct 2004
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Yes, I agree with Travy, I did add downthrust to the motors but that was it. You can add downthrust by getting yourself a clear plastic compass and put the motor sticks in with a slight down angle, say 2 degrees. That is, the stick needs to be pointed down at the front. The model tended to climb unreasonably at full power and the downthrust makes pitch changes at differing power settings a thing of the past. The elevator is not scale and I think they spoke of changing the hinge line to shorten the elevator, not shortening the whole stab. Hope we helped...
Cptn.K
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Old May 02, 2006, 12:43 PM
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Bellevue, WA
Joined Feb 2005
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I think the most important thing is to make sure you have plenty of down elevator to be able to keep from going into tipstall. If you balance it just right, tipstalling isn't an issue. For me, all I have to do is hit the throttle to about 50% and it lifts off of the ground by itself with no elevator input. If the nose goes up too much (it'll look unscale when it's dangerous) then you bring the nose down and you won't have a tip stall issue. I honestly think after having my C-47 for as long as I have, that the tipstall reports are either exaggerated, the person didn't know how to avoid them or thier build was wrong.
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Old May 02, 2006, 03:59 PM
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Farnborough, Hampshire, England.
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Yes GOK turn it into a build thread........I'd like to see your colour scheme!

I have one in my loft, and will build as stock(unless I see mods that work) and will fit lipos.

Ian
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Old May 02, 2006, 09:35 PM
GOK
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Turkey, Izmir
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Thanks for the feedback guys.

OK! So I will turn this into a build thread as best as I can. However, I am going to be taking my time with this build as I have other commitments at the moment (a new member in the family) I hope you guys will bare with me.

I am still undecided about the colur scheme, I am thinking of copying one of the below schemes but am not fully satisfied with neither of them. I am happy to hear any suggestions.

I think I will leave the elevator as it is but shorten the ailerons a bit and definately add some downthrust to th emotors.

I am also thinking of cutting the side windows out and replacing the foam with tinted clear plastic just for the cool factor, but this may weaken the fuse quite a bit (still havent decided). Maybe I'll use fiberglass tape inside the fuse to make up for the lost foam if I decide to carry on with this mod.
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Old May 02, 2006, 10:06 PM
GOK
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Turkey, Izmir
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Hey Grejen,

I just ran into your build thread of the DC3. I hadn't seen it before. You have a beautiful build going on there, I hope mine goes as smooth and good as yours.

How did you end up doing the clear windows?

Cheers,

GOK
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Old May 03, 2006, 04:07 AM
GOK
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Has anyone used retracts on this plane? I have the GWS blue retracts laying around...
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Old May 04, 2006, 01:11 AM
IAMCANADIAN
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Canada, BC, Squamish
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Hi, Thank you. Hopefully I'll be able to get back to it before too long. The cockpit windows were carefully cut out with a hobby knife. Front windshields are cut from clear plastic packaging material. The thinnest stuff I could find. To fit them I carefull cut slots into the foam above and below the frame and just slid them in. The side cockpit windows I'll probably just leave open.

I also cut out a couple of the forward cabin windows but won't do the back ones. I don't want to do the further back ones because they get into major foam structure. Instead I'll deepen them a bit, paint them black, and cover with clear plastic. I may get creative and paint curtains in a couple of them.

I'm planning retracts but I'd be engineering scale units from scratch. We'll see.. Speaking of scale gear, I may change the tailwheel. Real DC3 tailwheels do NOT steer. They just caster and have a lock for TO and Landing. The DC3 steers on the ground by thrust differential.
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Old May 05, 2006, 07:03 AM
GOK
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Turkey, Izmir
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Finally I made some progress with the build last night. I told you guys I would be taking my time with this

I started with enlarging the battery bay to accamodate my packs (I'll be using 1800mah 2s 12c lipos). While doing this I also deepened the battery slot inwards towards the nose to have the flexibility for better balencing the CG without using dead weight.

So my pacs will be pushed in and than towards the nose. This will also provide a snug fit.
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Old May 05, 2006, 07:10 AM
GOK
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Next I thought about making clear windows and said what the heck! I might as well give it a try just for fun.

I followed the same technique Grejen has described a couple of posts ago (Thanks for the idea Grejen). I would love to see yours to check out how you did them, if you have any pics.

First I cut the side windows and than the cocpit windows. I left the second from the last side windows as they are as there is a huge chunk of foam behind them which act as a spar and I didnt want to weaken the fuse too much.

The rest of the side windows were quite simple and straight forward to cut.

The cocpit windows were a bit more tricky as they have foam pieces behind them and the two front windows have a very thin piece of foam seperating them. Hence I had my first stuff up here. I cut a bit too much off one of the front windows But it looks like it will be an easy fix.
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Old May 05, 2006, 07:20 AM
GOK
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Turkey, Izmir
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I used a plastic fast food container for the windows. I had a bit of a tinting spray lying around so I used that on the plastic.

After the tinting process I cut the plastic into window size pieces, cut some thin slits on the left and right sides of the window slots on tehfuse and just slid the plastic pieces in(didn't use any glue. I don't think there is any need). (I hope this makes some sense. My English isn't the best unfortunately )

I haven't had a chance to do all the windows yet but I am quite pleased with how the modified ones turned out.

Ihope to do some more work on the build tomorrow.

STAY TUNED
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Old May 07, 2006, 06:07 AM
GOK
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Turkey, Izmir
Joined Aug 2005
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I had some chance to work on the DC3 over the weekend. As a matter of fact I got more than I hoped for done.

First I did the tailwheel, finished the remaining windows and glued th etwo fusalage halves together.
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