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Old Jun 24, 2013, 12:17 PM
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DGrant's Avatar
United States, CA, Clovis
Joined Mar 2004
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The "pot" (potentiometer) is adjusted with a small screw located along one of the wire runs on the unit. If memory serves, it only adjusts one side to equal the throws. It's a finite adjustment only. Major adjustments are done with the Tx or mechanically. Very simple. Good luck.
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 09:51 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
139 Posts
wing rod

I am having 2 problems that are keeping me from doing the finish work on my Windlord. The 1/4 inch music wire wing rod that runs through the center section and into each wing panel is too tight of a fit. It's a long wing rod. I suspect that the problem is that the rod is not perfectly straight. I have more music wire, but it is not perfectly straight either. Do I file down the rod until it fits smoothly? Does anyone have other ideas?
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 09:55 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
139 Posts
elevator throw

The Y-harness and servo reversers seem to work okay. I hooked the equipment up and taped the spoilers and elevators in place for testing. The spoilers work well. The elevator has way too much throw. The transmitter I plan to use does not have dual rates. Does anyone have any ideas about how to reduce the elevator throw?
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 10:07 PM
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harborflyer's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Ana
Joined Jul 2010
478 Posts
jd

longer horns on elevator, shorter horns at servo !

Ross
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 10:09 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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I would go with a longer horn. Let it stick up above the top of the wing.
Mine has the hole about 1/16" below the top surface, if I did it again I would go higher.
I had to reduce throws quite a bit, which means you lose servo torque and resolution.

And use the arm on the servo that lets you get the pushrod closest to the pivot.



As far as the wing tube, any chance you bent the tube when you glued it in?
Perhaps you could try buying a 1/4" reamer and run it into the tubes?

If it really is music wire should be too hard to file, but you could spin it up in a drill and sand it down a bit with emery cloth.

FWIW, we will have a club TD contest tomorrow, I will use my Windlord in RES

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Jul 14, 2013, 10:18 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
139 Posts
elevator throw

I moved the connector on the servo arm to the hole closest to the servo. The throw is still excessive. But, I don't like the look of running the linkage outside the wing. So, I plan to move the elevator stick very little. On RES sailplanes, you rarely move the elevator stick much anyway.
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Old Jul 20, 2013, 09:17 AM
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United States, KY, La Grange
Joined Feb 2006
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Hmmmm, on My RES sailplanes I use the elevator all the time. That's what I'm turning with usually.

I love the Windlord, and It's on my bucket list. Regarding your transmitter not having dual rates, if I were you I'd invest in one that has dual rates for more reasons than just this issue. I use it all of the time and just about every airplane that goes up a string. Low rates while it is goin up, and then low/high depending on the flying conditions or landing challenges.

Except for some of the cheap park flyer radios, I havent actually seen a modern radio that doesn't have dual rates. What are you using?
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Old Jul 20, 2013, 09:28 AM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
139 Posts
radio equipment

When I say I don't move the elevator much on my RES sailplanes, I mean the stick is not pushed very far. With the throw I think I will have on the Windlord elevator, I suspect I will either not move the elevator stick very far or I will do a lot of loops

My radios are "retro" in keeping with the good old designs I fly - Futaba 4NBL. Lest you think I shun modernity, only one of my 4 channel Futaba radios is AM. I use the tiny Berg receivers since they fit in the fuselage so easily.
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Old Jul 20, 2013, 03:29 PM
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United States, KY, La Grange
Joined Feb 2006
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I got accused last weekend of being too retro flying my Sagitta 900 with a Hitec7 with 2.4 module.
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Old Jul 20, 2013, 04:22 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
139 Posts
dual rates on launch

Since I do not have dual rates, I use elevator trim instead of the stick on launch and that works fine. I have a lot of elevator throw on all my sailplanes and they are very responsive to the elevator.
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Old Nov 23, 2014, 09:04 AM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
139 Posts
Windlord ARC (finally)

Well, I either need to finish my Windlord and get it off my bench and fly it or call it part of the decor of my shop. I have decided to go with the former.

The build is complete. I put light weight fiberglass on the fuselage. I will paint it with TopFlite spray paint to match the monokote on the wing and fin and rudder. I went light on the epoxy and sanded it down. It does not feel like it added much weight.

I made 2 hatch covers. The main canopy is held down with 2 pieces of inner nyrod, one running into a hole in the nose section and the aft one running into a hole in a mounted horizontal piece of wood. The nyrod flexes, so the canopy goes on and off easily and feels like it will stay on there. The rear hatch will only be used if I need access to the wiring to push it through the holes leading to the wing. That could be challenging without access through a hatch. The rear hatch has 2 pieces of nyrod that push through holes in the hatch into holes in horizontally mounted wood inside the fuselage, and a flap under the leading edge. I put a right angle on a thin piece of wire and a hole in the rear hatch so I can easily pull off the rear hatch. If it sticks, I can push the nyrods down through the holes in the fuselage. The nyrods are not glued into the rear hatch cover.

I have sprayed primer on the fuselage and covered the fin and rudder with monokote. Orange and white is the classic scheme for the Windlord. But, I do not see orange as well at altitude as I see red. So, I am going with a red, white, and blue scheme. I will try to post pictures later today.
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Old Nov 23, 2014, 05:21 PM
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United States, CA, Clovis
Joined Mar 2004
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Very nice... I'm with you on the red... its a much better contrast in any color of flyable sky to me also. I just completed a Butterfly, using trans red/pearl white.. and some added stripes.. Theres a pic in my Blog ... I found the trans red very easy to see... and the pearl white had just enough translusence to have alot of "flash"... way more the an opaque Jet White Monokote.. Just a thought there, as you have a very fine plane... very nice. Congrats... Can't wait to see finish pics..
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Old Nov 23, 2014, 10:09 PM
Zeus
Joined Jul 2006
139 Posts
<<I just completed a Butterfly, using trans red/pearl white.. and some added stripes.. Theres a pic in my Blog>>

Your Butterfly looks good! Do you have a cut off on your engine so you can shut it down when you get the altitude you want?
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Old Nov 23, 2014, 10:30 PM
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United States, CA, Clovis
Joined Mar 2004
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Thanks!.. No engine cut-off... but it will idle all day. I've had it up for near an hour the other day. I do have to keep an eye on it, as it will gain and climb, and spec-out before you realize it... I've got 4 flights on it... all easily 30 mins or more... so I can essentially get the altitude I want many times over a flight.. come down and do touch and gos, then go up again... very relaxing motor glider for here in the valley .. I was thermalling it a few weeks back.. and the lift is so subtle.. its startling to look up and your plane is literally a spec... The glow engine is not quite as convenient as an electric(there are apparently alot of E-power Butterflys).. but its very simple, and very reliable... and just ticks along at an idle most of the time.. its old school.. Take offs are just a puff of wind under the wing... its pretty cool to see it just lift off the runway at a crawl..
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Old Nov 30, 2014, 07:05 PM
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United States, WA, Puyallup
Joined Nov 2012
80 Posts
Nice job. I finished my Windlord with lightweight fiberglass and water based polyacrylic finish from Lowes. It works great and doesn't have the mess of epoxy.

If you check the main Windlord thread I posted three views drawings of the plane that can used to test different color schemes. Just need to print them out and bust out the color pencils.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=578473&page=8

Hopefully yours flies good. Mine is great when gliding, but add power and it's a real handful (pitch up). I've tried all sorts of throttle/mixing but I can't seem to fix it. I think I need more downthrust. This winter I'm going to cut the nose off and add more. Hopefully it fixes the problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jdveirin View Post
Well, I either need to finish my Windlord and get it off my bench and fly it or call it part of the decor of my shop. I have decided to go with the former.

The build is complete. I put light weight fiberglass on the fuselage. I will paint it with TopFlite spray paint to match the monokote on the wing and fin and rudder. I went light on the epoxy and sanded it down. It does not feel like it added much weight.

I made 2 hatch covers. The main canopy is held down with 2 pieces of inner nyrod, one running into a hole in the nose section and the aft one running into a hole in a mounted horizontal piece of wood. The nyrod flexes, so the canopy goes on and off easily and feels like it will stay on there. The rear hatch will only be used if I need access to the wiring to push it through the holes leading to the wing. That could be challenging without access through a hatch. The rear hatch has 2 pieces of nyrod that push through holes in the hatch into holes in horizontally mounted wood inside the fuselage, and a flap under the leading edge. I put a right angle on a thin piece of wire and a hole in the rear hatch so I can easily pull off the rear hatch. If it sticks, I can push the nyrods down through the holes in the fuselage. The nyrods are not glued into the rear hatch cover.

I have sprayed primer on the fuselage and covered the fin and rudder with monokote. Orange and white is the classic scheme for the Windlord. But, I do not see orange as well at altitude as I see red. So, I am going with a red, white, and blue scheme. I will try to post pictures later today.
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