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Old Sep 10, 2012, 08:22 AM
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I saw the 7010, its a bit bigger 45cm.
My set up is stock, but what i was thinking is that maybe the prop is a few mm closer to the rear, or the propshaft is wrong. This would mean it cant collect enough water.
I do have an esc 30amp brushed, and 2.4 reciever witch i wanted to put in with 2s lipo.
It will make it lighter i think.
I will masure the prop to the rear.
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 03:29 PM
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The prop was 12mm from the rear, i added about 3. Cant test it now because night just fell.
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 05:17 PM
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United States, FL, Melbourne
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amadai View Post
I saw the 7010, its a bit bigger 45cm.
My set up is stock, but what i was thinking is that maybe the prop is a few mm closer to the rear, or the propshaft is wrong. This would mean it cant collect enough water.
I do have an esc 30amp brushed, and 2.4 reciever witch i wanted to put in with 2s lipo.
It will make it lighter i think.
I will masure the prop to the rear.
You said you converted it to brushless though?
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 12:52 AM
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Not converted it yet. I bought the 7009 to start with, see if like it.
So far it just doesnt work as it should. Its not getting up to speed on the stock set up.
So i was hoping you guys could help me get it to work. I can change in to 2,4 ghz with the stuff i have laying around. But first it needs to run properly.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Ok, i got it to work. The propshaft was to high and the prop was faulty.
Now i have a problem with the steering, it will go sharp right but left is minimum.
Tried tinkering with the servo arm and the hight of the steeringpin thingy. But nothing really helps. I think i bought a monday morning product....
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 09:35 PM
cheapskate extroardinairé
United States, CA, Marin
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amadai View Post
Ok, i got it to work. The propshaft was to high and the prop was faulty.
Now i have a problem with the steering, it will go sharp right but left is minimum.
Tried tinkering with the servo arm and the hight of the steeringpin thingy. But nothing really helps. I think i bought a monday morning product....
the steering problem is normal. it's because of prop torque. the spinning prop is constantly trying to turn the boat one way, and you trim it to make it go straight. so when you give it right it turns tight because of the torque roll, but left will be very unresponsive.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 06:27 AM
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United States, FL, Melbourne
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Most boats are setup to run clockwise circuits, which is how I run mine.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. I found this thread about the 7009 & figured I should post here instead of start a new thread.

I've wanted an RC boat for years & my girlfriend bought me the 7009 for Christmas. It's a blast to play with but the battery only last for a few minutes.

Is there a quick charger that you would recommend & could I get a bigger battery (1800mAh or bigger) without upsetting the balance or sinking the boat? For now the range & speed are fine for me; I just need more run time. The battery dies before the motor is even getting warm.

Also- is there an RC supply site that you can recommend (as long as it's not against ToS, of course.)

edit: I've done some searching & found charger threads in the Airplane forum.

I'm assuming I could use a charger like this & charge my 650mAh battery in about 15 minutes since it can charge a 2000mAh battery in 1 hour.
http://www.all-battery.com/smartuniv...rypackRed.aspx
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 08:00 AM
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Added weight is the bane of most smaller boats. Larger capacity \ higher discharge batteries usually weigh more, which can reduce the ablity to plane, throw off balance, screw up self-righting (although it can help it as well), and overheat the motor and ESC, so unless you can find a battery that's the same weight or lighter I wouldn't do it. Now you could convert to a 2S lipo, which would probably be alot lighter than a NiMH battery, but you run the risk of burning up the stock electronics.

You'll have to make an adapter to charge your stock battery with that aftermarket charger, you could buy a connector or cut and splice your original charger's battery lead. Really you should have multiple batteries so you don't have to charge between runs. You really should watch your run times though. My 7009's motor is always hot after a full run on the stock battery. If you're in colder climate, don't count on that cool running when summer comes.

I'm in the hobby biz now so we're actually going to carry an entry-level boat that's 2.4 Ghz and is self-righting, I'll announce it once it's in stock.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 03:50 AM
cheapskate extroardinairé
United States, CA, Marin
Joined Jul 2011
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well I learned something today: nimhs and nicads are NOT safer than li-pos. sure, it's harder to set them off, but when you do, they REALLY blow! I was charging the nimh for this boat using my accucell 6, with the nimh in the boat, but didn't realize that I had set the wrong amperage (6 amps rather than .6) anyway, the battery blew, two of the metal caps from the battery cells came out the top of the boat (destroying the top of the boat in the process) and one I guess it blew just after the other 2) came out through the hole that the other two haf made in the top of the boat, then proceeded to fly across the room and bury itself in the drywall. i'll be getting another 7009 soon, and upgrading it to lipo immediately
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 09:11 AM
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After I had posted here I found the section with the batteries/chargers & got a lot of good information.

I figured I'd have to cut & solder in a new clip so I could charge the battery & I found LiPos that have 1800mAh that were 70g (same weight as the stock battery.) Being that 2 LiPos & the charger cost more than the boat I couldn't justify spending the money until I upgrade.

I'm glad I read the directions before charging my battery the first time. When I was a kid I used to just plug in the batteries for my electric cars & just leave them charging. I didn't realize that not all chargers have a built-in safety switch.

As much fun as I'm having with this little boat I don't think I'll be able to upgrade it the way I'd like to so I'm probably going to look into making a larger fiberglass V-Hull so I can instal a larger motor/battery setup without sinking it.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 12:39 AM
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I just ordered the newer version of this boat from banggood.com. Cost $52, it was a daily deal. I realize this one is cheaper, but the FT007 has a 2.4g radio and a lion battery. May not need a lipo but I might have some that fit. This will be my first boat then I want to pass it down to my son and get a better one. I like the catamaran style. Hobbyking has a nice small on for $100 but it looks unstable at speed and can't take turns. Isn't deep V style better for rough water and turns? Why the different hull types?
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 01:06 AM
cheapskate extroardinairé
United States, CA, Marin
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
I just ordered the newer version of this boat from banggood.com. Cost $52, it was a daily deal. I realize this one is cheaper, but the FT007 has a 2.4g radio and a lion battery. May not need a lipo but I might have some that fit. This will be my first boat then I want to pass it down to my son and get a better one. I like the catamaran style. Hobbyking has a nice small on for $100 but it looks unstable at speed and can't take turns. Isn't deep V style better for rough water and turns? Why the different hull types?
catamarans are usually more "surface skimmers" whereas deep Vs, as you can guess, tend to extend a little deeper in the water, so catamarans are usually faster. in turns, I have found it is usually harder to flip a catamaran, but a catamaran has NO self righting whatsoever, whereas deep V boats tend to roll back upright.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 10:53 AM
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United States, FL, Melbourne
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
I just ordered the newer version of this boat from banggood.com. Cost $52, it was a daily deal. I realize this one is cheaper, but the FT007 has a 2.4g radio and a lion battery. May not need a lipo but I might have some that fit. This will be my first boat then I want to pass it down to my son and get a better one. I like the catamaran style. Hobbyking has a nice small on for $100 but it looks unstable at speed and can't take turns. Isn't deep V style better for rough water and turns? Why the different hull types?
This is the first boat we're going to carry. It's also self-righting. My business partner is running a 2S lipo in his without any problems (although it is winter in China). I have a few samples coming and will see what kind of modding can be done to her. Originally they came with 280 motors (which my business partner has and he's pretty impressed with it with that motor) but the latest ones have 370.

It's not going to be as impressive as my Super Mono X, but the straight shaft, 2.4 Ghz, self-righting, and low-maintenance NiMh battery should make it perfect for the beginner who prefers a high run-time-to-maintenance ratio and it's a big step up from the original 7009.
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Old Mar 31, 2013, 05:58 AM
ASJ
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United Kingdom, England, Holmfirth
Joined Feb 2013
11 Posts
Low voltage cut off?

Hi, I have a 7009 and have noticed that it always stops dead in the water, then starts going again. initially I thought this was water getting on the electronics or a radio glitch but having used the boat a bit more frequently, it seems this happens consistently before the stock battery starts to die. Is this a low voltage cut off feature? If it is, I wasn't expecting this boat to have such features as they are usually reserved for higher spec models, but I would like to start running 2 cell lipo's rather than the stock Ni-Mh battery so L.V.C is a bonus.
Also, is it possible to reverse the polarity on the motor so I can run more common L.H. Props.
Thanks
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