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Old Nov 22, 2015, 10:36 AM
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Greg- I am sorry to hear about the imprinting of the fiberglass cloth coming thru the finish. The one thing I have done on all my builds to completely seal all wood surfaces, inside and out, with thinned epoxy resin to prevent water incursion into unfinished wood.
No matter how good the outside finish build up is, if water or moisture enters the wood from anywhere, you will get movement in the wood and in extreme cases, discoloration of the finish.

I have models which are now thirty or forty years old, that are not trailer queens, and are run in both fresh and salt water, which except for the occasional washing and waxing, look as good today as when first finished. All most all of my models were given the ultimate test, being tossed around in hurricane SANDY, and except for replacing fittings which were knocked off and electronics which had to be replaced, look as good as new on the finishes.

A point and case is the Dumas 24’ runabout which took a header from a top shelf in the flood picture at bottom of page, (SINGING WOOD)

. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumb...u=50037&page=7
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Old Nov 22, 2015, 02:29 PM
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Damage Control

Greg, keep us posted, I am sorry to hear about this but keep your chin up.
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Old Nov 22, 2015, 03:37 PM
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Thanks for the condolences, guys. Coating the interior of the boat is certainly one take away from this experience. Patmat makes a good point about the limitations of epoxy or urethane in preventing moisture ingress. I didn't mention that many of the brass "fasteners" had become slightly recessed as well. That didn't bother me because it actually made the surface appear more like the real boat. Again, the wood swelled and the brass did not. All of the brass pins protruding through the interior surface make it just that much more difficult to seal the surface. If I ever use brass wire to simulate fasteners again, I will push the wires back out until they are flush with the inside surface of the planking before gluing them in place. That will make it much easier to apply a uniform seal coat to the interior of the hull. I know that the urethane I applied to the interior has not formed a complete seal against moisture. I can only hope that the coating slows down moisture movement in and out of the planking. I will certainly think twice about single planking another boat in the future. Multiple layers of wood, laminated with cross grains, give much better protection against this type of movement in the planking.
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Old Nov 23, 2015, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by californiakid View Post
Greg, keep us posted
Yes please do keep us posted ~
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 10:10 AM
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Just an update on the boat remediation. The finish coats of urethane cured and I sanded and polished the exterior. All of the interior panels and seats and the exterior hardware and trim have been reinstalled. I took the opportunity to re-chrome a handful of trim pieces that had some thin areas. The boat is back to looking as she did last spring. Now only time will tell if the fix was permanent.
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 10:37 AM
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That is of course Very good news ~
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 03:06 PM
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Sealing inside of boat

Hi Greg, I know its too now but I had a weird notion of how to seal the inside of a hull. It was to remove the cut water and drill a hole and plug it.Then remove the cock pit and all of the running gear and some of the trim around the cockpit area. mask around that area and plug the stuffing box and rudder tube. then decide what you want to use as a sealer and dilute if possible. Stand the boat with the transom down and fill the hull up to the cockpit. Hopefully the sealer would soak into any place that water would. After a short time, level out the hull and let the sealer run to the other end and fill up. When you felt the sealer had time to soak in , pull the plug and let it drain out. Continually tip and rotate the hull until you feel you have drained most of the sealer out. What is left can settle to the bottom and not be a problem. Like I said, I know this is too late for this boat, but the procedure may work for other guys that may have the same problem. Thank you, Gary
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 05:07 PM
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Gary,
That's basically what I did except I didn't fill the boat up. I did pour urethane inside the hull and rotate the hull around so that the liquid could cover all the areas inside.
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Old Jan 29, 2016, 05:56 PM
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Which way is it blowing?
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While showing photos of your boat to my wife, quote "That's Gorgeous!"
I agree, nice work!
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Old Feb 03, 2016, 06:20 PM
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It has been my intention since the very beginning of this build to make a scale version of the Packard 1A 2025 Engine that would sit over the motor for display purposes. Others (FrankG) have done this successfully with their builds. The small size of the motor allows it to sit inside the larger model of the original engine. Today I worked up a design for the engine based on photos of the engine in the boat and separately, as configured for aviation. Unfortunately, I have concluded that it is not possible to fit the motor inside the engine. This engine does not have an engine block, but rather a crankcase housing, with cylinders bolted on externally. There is no way to hide the motor inside the engine because the crankcase housing is too small. I could probably make up some kind of shield to set on top of the motor to give the impression of the engine, but that would only work while the engine was in the boat. It would certainly not look like the engine outside the boat.
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Old Feb 07, 2016, 04:02 PM
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Greg, happened to be checking out your build log and noticed the discussion on your swelling problem. Neither Baby Bootlegger or Lagarto have shown any indication of plank swelling after several years. Both insides and bilges were coated with Rustoleum clear before decking them. Bootlegger used double planking of sawn mahogany, glued together with te seams staggered. Lagarto used aircraft plywood with a Honduras mahogany veneer glued to it and then split into planking, which was then glued to the battens. Plywood, which essentially these planks were, is more stable than normal straight grain planking. Your craft is of course a work of art. Syd
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Old Feb 08, 2016, 08:11 AM
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Polyester resin is permeable. Most full size fiberglass boats use that with their fiberglass cloth. Their bilge pumps do run. Formula boats-
-- I owned one--- use epoxy resin with their fiberglass cloth and my bilge was always dry. Epoxy resin has little or no water migration.
I used thinned epoxy resin and cloth inside and outside of the hull of my Sterling Corvette. This was an effort to eliminate the incursion of moisture. I tried to make the balsa incidental and as a core for the fiberglass. In home building seasonal changes cause wood to shrink and expand, unless the wood in completely sealed on all surfaces. Latex paint is definitely permeable. Oil base paint has a very low or no permeability. On wooden front doors, we used spar varnish after trying polyurathane and other clear coating. Spar varnish has some flexibility and can survive some shrinking and expanding of the wood.
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Old Mar 08, 2016, 06:59 PM
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nice stuff and here is me working an a dumas "jolly jay"

u, my man go to a quantum leap in scale rc model building.

this is probably too late as i just found this excellent build log but did u try filling the hull with a dessicant like salt?

temporarily
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