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Old Aug 19, 2012, 09:22 AM
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United States, FL, Altamonte Springs
Joined Jun 2012
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Broke two more 3 blade props yesterday! Definitely going with the GWS spinner and 2 blade.

Also lost RX signal (2 minutes into 2nd flight) and nose dived into grass. Only the spinner and one of the struts broke. The plane is one smooth flyer otherwise and NOT for a beginner (like me) due to the finicky-ness.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 11:15 AM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
Joined Apr 2008
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Voxel:
You're not using the stock radio equipment as I recall. Still using that Orange RX with a Spektrum
Tx?

The 2 blade prop is an easy mod but it does require a second prop shaft nut and a couple of small washers to put on either side of the prop. Then tighten it up and just push the rubber spinner on.

It seems like most of these RC plane suppliers call nearly every plane they sell "easy to fly" and " great for beginners". That's just wrong.

This Cessna is a great little flyer but it has none of the self righting characteristics of a good trainer. It's also not a "floater" and must be flown almost to the touchdown on landings. It's just so much easier to learn the basics on a good trainer and then advance to a plane like the Cessna.

I"m currently tutoring a beginner and really like this plane for a trainer:

http://www.bananahobby.com/easy-trai...5359-prd1.html

BTW, voxel, I'm just across the state from you in Brooksville, about 40 miles north of Tampa. These hot and humid days have reduced the time I spend outdoors flying. Usually an hour or so early and late in the day is all I want.
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Last edited by dbc; Aug 19, 2012 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
The 2 blade prop is an easy mod but it does require a second prop shaft nut and a couple of small washers to put on either side of the prop. Then tighten it up and just push the rubber spinner on.
Thanks for the info. I got the rubber spinner and the GWS props... I have 3mm hex nuts... but is that all? Seems a bit flimsy - where the prop can fly off. Anything else holding the prop down?
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 04:18 PM
dbc
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Use a nut, a flat washer, the prop, another flat washer and the final nut. Don't use the supplied spinner or backing plate. Just the above items on the motor shaft. Tighten it up and it will be very secure. Then push the spinner on.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 09:06 AM
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United States, FL, Altamonte Springs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
Use a nut, a flat washer, the prop, another flat washer and the final nut. Don't use the supplied spinner or backing plate. Just the above items on the motor shaft. Tighten it up and it will be very secure. Then push the spinner on.
Sorry for the dumb question, but what size nut? I have some tiny 3mm hex nuts that fit into the GWS style prop hub area. Is that all? The rubberized nose seems to fit well, but hoped for something more secure.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 05:48 PM
dbc
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Whatever nut threads on this shaft. It's either 3 or 3.17mm, I don't recall which. The flat washer next provides the surface area to contact the back of the prop. Another washer on the front, then another nut.
I think you're overly concerned about the "security". Tighten this just moderately tight and the prop will never move until you break the motor shaft. The soft rubber spinner wont come off either - unless you yank it off.

Ive got over 40 logged flights with this setup and absolutely no problems.
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Last edited by dbc; Aug 24, 2012 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 09:59 AM
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I tried this, but the nut was slightly loose. I decided to thread lock and CA glue the nut for now. I'm replacing the motor after a few flights. I want to use standard APC type props.

Also, removing the rubber spinner once means the spinner no longer fits snugly. They seem to be single-use items. Is that the case with you?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 02:23 PM
dbc
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I don't understand exactly what you meant that the nut "was slightly loose". The prop is sandwiched between two nuts. Then tightly clamped. Nothing should be even remotely loose. I've removed and reinstalled an identical spinner on a different plane several times without a problem.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
I don't understand exactly what you meant that the nut "was slightly loose". The prop is sandwiched between two nuts. Then tightly clamped. Nothing should be even remotely loose. I've removed and reinstalled an identical spinner on a different plane several times without a problem.
Sorry, I meant to say after a test spin of the prop + motor (raw it for 20 seconds), it loosened just a tad. My hex nut (small Du-Bro version) fits but it's so tiny the vibration from the bigger parts surrounding it - untightened it.

Can't wait until this tropical storm passes so I can test this and my repaired mini FMS warbird (same engine, same prop) out.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:43 PM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
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If its vibrating much you should balance it. You can do an acceptable job by putting a small piece of cellophane tape on the back side of first one blade then the other. Run it up briefly to full power and see which taped blade runs smoother. The put slighty more tape on the best one until you get it smooth.

The storm is really kicking up some wind over here, as well.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 11:28 AM
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United States, FL, Altamonte Springs
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Flew nicely with a 3s but as I was connecting the battery for the second flight I noticed the JST-to-Deans connector warming up. It was shorting due to the melted plastic/rubber that kept the red + black wires apart. I immediately yanked it out.

I tried the stock 2s battery, but there wasn't enough power with the new prop I was using (3 blade 8x6).

This plane is a sweet flyer - but far too underpowered at 2s. I'm trying to use up my GWS props before replacing the motor and probably should upgrade the ESC to 30A.
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 12:47 PM
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United States, FL, Altamonte Springs
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Replaced the motor with this:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=24239

and I use the recommended APC 7x4 props. The plane cranks now... feels more like a speedy warbird but does not loop very well

The prop and motor are tough buggers. I use a 1250mah battery and still need 42g of nose weight to balance (but it's perfect).
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:38 PM
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United States, IL, Hoffman Estates
Joined Aug 2007
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Glad I found this thread!

Hi,

I also own this plane. I talked a bit with Voxel in the BH forum and thought maybe we were the only two flying this thing.

I am brand new to r/c planes. I have been driving r/c cars on and off for the last twenty years, so I don't seem to have any trouble with orientation. I have a little time on sims, and some training in full size aircraft. Obviously the benefit of the full size experience is debatable, but I think at minimum it helps understand the basics of flying a plane (i.e., doing properly coordinated turns, flaring on landing, etc.)

I ordered this plane back in May or June. On my first attempt to takeoff ROG, the asphalt was rougher than I realized and I bounced the nosewheel and broke the first prop without leaving the ground. On my second attempt, also ROG, I just got off the ground when a wind gust pushed the plane up into a high AOA. Before I could get it under control, it stalled, flipped over, and landed upside down. That killed the only spare prop I purchased. By the time I went to order more, they were out of stock. I waited months, only to figure out two weeks ago that the props *were* back in stock..but listed on a different page under a different part number. Doh! In the meantime, I did find a perfect field to fly in, only about 2 mins driving time from my house.

So, last weekend, I finally got it airborne. I've been hand launching it. I've been mostly flying before work, since that seems to be the only time the wind gets under 10 mph. I've got about a dozen flights in now, and have broken a few more props. I haven't had any issues during flight, although I agree that the plane could use more power. I am only breaking props due to my ugly landings and the poorly designed nosewheel. I've replaced the nosewheel with one from a Habu (best out of the options they had at my LHS) and glued it in, without the steering arm/pushrod. I've mainly been flying circuits, with only a few attempts at loops/rolls, which were ugly. I've also practiced power-on and power-off stalls, both of which seem to act predictably.

Thanks dbc, for the advice on using 2 blade props!! Having to order the 3 bladed ones is a pain.

I will say that other than the small esc/motor combo, and the nosewheel, I am impressed with this plane. The finish is excellent, and I've had no other issues. I had one flight at dusk the other day, and the lights looked amazing and really helped me maintain orientation. Without them, it would have been too dark to fly. It seemed to balance ok without any added weight, but I am going to check again closely. It definitely lacks authority to climb, and due to my lack of experience, it's hard for me to tell if that's due to tail heaviness, or lack of power, or a little of both. I am flying with stock radio gear.

How'd you guys mount everything in the battery bay? I've got the receiver taped to the back wall, with the antenna run through an existing hole up into the back of cabin. The ESC is pushed up through the top of the bay and sits, lengthwise, in the existing slot between the bay and the front of the cabin. I applied a velcro strip to the front, upper wall of the bay, with matching strip on the butt end of my batteries. I lay the battery flat along the top of the bay (which is the bottom when the plane is laying upside down on the ground), and use the spaghetti of wiring to help keep it from moving around. It's easier without the nosewheel steering pushrod going right through the middle of the bay.

Also, which servo/control horn holes are you using? Currently, I have the elevator and rudder in the far hole on the server arm, furthest hole on the control horns. I think I am going to move the elevator rod to the closer hole on the servo, to dull it down a bit. It's fine during flight but a little too sensitive in landing approach. The ailerons are on the closest on the servo, middle on the control horn. I think I am going to put it on the middle servo hole to get a bit more throw. I can see where dual rates would be beneficial.

My biggest struggle right now is my approach. I bring it in too high, with too much power. I think I am overcompensating for fear of stalling on my turn from base to final. This causes me to make the end of my approach slope too aggressive.

Whew..ok, I didn't mean for my post to be this long. I've ordered an FMS Easy Trainer 800 for my 11 year old nephew's birthday, so it will be interesting to see how it affects my thoughts when I have stick time on another plane to compare to.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:44 AM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
Joined Apr 2008
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Welcome tta! Good to see someone else with this fine little plane.

Arranging the rx, esc, battery and tangle of wires in the limitied space is a real challenge. My approach was slightly different but probably no more effective than what you've described.

I've used outer holes on all servos and control horns except for middle hole on aileron servos. But I'm using a computer radio and have added a little expo to all the control surfaces to tame the response. If using the supplied radio, you may need to reduce the throws to soften the response as this is a small plane and a little touchy to start with.

The two blade prop improves the performance somewhat and, for me at least, makes the plane acceptably powered.

I've got an FMS Easy Trainer 1280, it's a much easier plane to fly and will tolerate some rough treatment that would damage this Cessna.

However, I've gotten over 45 flights on this small Cessna with mininal problems. Only one broken prop and no other damage so far.

Your previous RC and real flight experience should make your transition to planes fairly easy.
Maybe a shallower approach with throttle management of descent will improve your landings.

As I've said before, this is a great little flyer but not really a very good trainer. If you can fly this, you can fly most other 4ch planes also. Let us know how it goes for you.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 12:43 PM
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United States, FL, Altamonte Springs
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I shoved the electronics into the pilot cabin area and put the RX and new 30A esc (with Deans) in there too. The undercarriage is 100% battery compartment.

The design if the plane is of high quality except for the nose gear and questionable motor choice. I had to gut this plane for parts as I was forced to move from Port Saint Lucie (long story) and throw everything into storage. Loved the tough foam, wing spar, LED lights, plastic cabin that provided rigidity to frame. It took a serious beating from me.

However, this FMS Cessna and FMS mini hellcat were my biggest failures. I flew my PZ T28D 50+ times, Habu 20+, Eflite Seafury 25+ and yet only managed 6-8 successful flights with the SkyTrainer. I broke too many props with the 3mm shaft motor and replaced the motor with some crazy high kv motor that was not suited for a draggy Cessna. I wing stalled it a few too many times trying to fly it too aggressively.

If I were to build a new one, I'd use a rugged low kv motor + prop like the Eflite Park 400/450/480 (CG needs to be corrected because these are heavy motors). Now mounting that motor is another story.

With all my planes now, I do slow fly-bys to determine the stall characteristics and stall speeds (min throttle + elevator to keep it levelish). My Seafury will tip a wing (and cartwheel if I'm trying to land) so it's better to land it at speed... My Habu tends to nose down more than roll. I'm still learning and learning NOT to fly at full throttle all the time
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