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Old Jan 22, 2012, 10:50 AM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,412 Posts
I believe with the ARF out there that since there are probably a lot of different people involved in the assembly and very few ( if any) quality control people ; that the quality of glueing can vary. That is the thing when kit building there is only one assembler and only one quality control person and that is you ....... Haha . The one thing I like about doing a kit is that you are able to make any modes or improvements as you go.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stegl View Post
The one thing I like about doing a kit is that you are able to make any modes or improvements as you go.
Indeed. I usually end up making a lot of changes even for ARF's and often it's a painstaking process, but I guess it's part of the fun. Now I'm changing out the lighting system for the cessna. The stock system is not so scale, don't like the green/red paint on the wing tips, etc.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 12:00 PM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,412 Posts
lighting Cessna 182

Yes , know what you mean exactly. Have found some great leds in red and green with about 140 degree light dispersal and about 10mm in diameter. They look just like what the Dr. ordered . I believe that to get better light dispersal and not have that large glare at the tip ; just use some very fine sandpaper and lightly scuff the exterior of the lense and that disperses the light better; so I have heard, but will try that for myself when I have time.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 03:03 PM
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I used the 'ElectroDynamics' system, navigation lights, strobes, rotating beacon and landing lights. They provide a nice small system that is fully programmable.
As most people have done, I installed a plastic tube in the fin for the rotating beacon wire and paper tubes in the wings for the strobes and navigation lights.

http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/index.shtml
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 11:04 PM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
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Hi Andrew ; nice to hear from you and thanks for the lighting link. Looks good . Thanks
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 12:00 AM
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I zoomed in as much as I could from one of my earlier photos and this is the finished result.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Hi Stegl, what servo horns are you using for your Airtronics 820 servos? The stock disk ones are not large enough for ailerons. I have tried Dubro horns http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEKC2&P=7
but these are slightly too loose.
Do you have experience with these "extra large" horns by any chance? They don't look extra large to me though.
http://www.rchobbyexplosion.com/Serv...p/air98323.htm

Thanks.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 06:52 PM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
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Horns

I am using the stock white X horns but make sure eveything is centered before trimming the unused arms if necessary. That is the only thing i don't like about the ATX servo stuff are the black round wheels . IMO they are too brittle. I have some aluminum arms on order that clamp and also screw into the servo out put shaft.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 07:49 PM
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hey guys,

I'm coming down to the finish line on rebuilding a Too Flite Cessna 182 to use a scorpion 4020 and I'm starting to check the balance. I'm finding this thing very tail heavy. What kind of weights are people seeing to use to balance? I'm looking at 1/2 to 1lb is that right?
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 04:00 AM
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Joined Oct 2005
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I guess a lot depends on the initial construction as to how much weight can be removed right from the start. I tried to lighten things up considerably at the back end during the early build stages and it paid off for me. Even with the whole airframe glassed and painted I found that having the two lipos for the motor mounted under where the fuel tank would normally be located and two receiver packs mounted either side of the motor mount I didn't need any extra nose weight at all.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 09:18 AM
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I bought this bird at a club flea mkt. He had an old weed wacker motor in it so he had a bunch of nose weight! I made battery box for a 6s battery where the fuel tank should was and I put a 4000 6s battery plus a 2200 life and it still needs weight. I'll wait until I have all the electronics mounted ( I'll move everything forward! ) before I check what I need again.
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Last edited by C R Mudgeon; Jan 30, 2012 at 09:19 AM. Reason: fat fingered typing!
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 10:46 AM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,412 Posts
CofG

I always mount my servos as far foreward as I can. Quite often , with both arfs and kits they seem to have the servos mounted behind the CofG . Not sure why. The only aircraft that I ever had to add tailweight was my Eflite deuces and to keep the tail weight to a minimum I added weight ( about 2 oz) in the tail tip to keep the weight down.

With the Cessna will have to wait and see when painted, if necessary, I will be going with receiver Life's as far foreward, in the cowling, as needed. I decided to go with a Scorpion s-4025-12 motor. Batteries will be Nano-tech 4S at 4500 and 2S at 4500 for total 6S. I made my own battery boxes so could up the size of the batteries if needed. From what I have read about flying characteristics of both the ARF and kit version ; this does not really suffer from AUW ( to a degree of course). Should make an excellent candidate for floats as well .

I also used four ATX 94820 digitals in the wing and saved a couple of oz ; aft of the CofG. Powerfull little tykes at 76 oz/in at 4.8 volts but will be operating at 5 volts. Weight each with BB and mtl gears 1.04 oz. My standard servos come in at about 1.59 oz. each at only 46 oz/in torque.

I also try and keep my servo arms and horn hookup as short as I can and make it workable. I hate too much stuff hanging out. Another advantage with the Digital servos here is when reducing the endpoints to make things work ; no loss of centering or power.
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Last edited by stegl; Feb 05, 2012 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:49 PM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,412 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by caesar95 View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Here is someone who used pull pull for the rudder, and I kind of like the idea.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10708317

I took out the center beam over the battery hatch and added smaller ply support on the sides. The ARF uses 6 sets of magnet for the hatch, kind of overkill I think (tempted to take off the middle ones but I guess I'll leave them for now).

I also trimmed the front wing support beams and added reinforcing carbon tube pieces on the backside. Didn't like the stock arch shape.
That's it for now. I'll keep working. I have to get to my eflite twin otter too.
Hi ceasar; Was looking again at your picture and did have a question . Did you add some tri-stock at the point were your side beams were glued to the boxed landing gear support because if just butt glued ; that could be a weak point ?? use some 3/4 or minimum 1/2 inch basswood or pine tri stock and if you have room do it on both corners.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 07:15 PM
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Hi stegl, thanks for the suggestion and the input on the servo horns. No I didn't add tri stock. I put fair amount of epoxy to beef up the contact point but I'll see if I can add some tri stock.

I found Airtronics has these adjustable horns (#98314), so I'm going to see if I these fit.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 02:44 PM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,412 Posts
I would definitely use tristock as a butt glue joint is not very strong, even with lotsa epoxy. The servo arms in the pic ; just not too sure how sturdy they are. Would work well for light 60's size and 40 size airplanes . Again the black plastic is ususally more brittle than the ATX white ones. Also the two piece is not as strong as the one piece molded white ones.
I would go with ATX part SKU#478304 part # 109A2090A and use the white X ones as 4 in a pkg plus some screws.

All glassed and ready for priming ; just waiting for the weather to warm up. Forgot the wing struts so while I wait for the weather to warm up I will got those done up as they are functional.
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Last edited by stegl; Mar 24, 2012 at 11:19 AM.
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