thanks for the replys. You are correct - it is NOT the set screw on the flat spot. Interesting.

xxxcellarator - just wanted to mention long ago in the original thread, before it got all merged with another thread, Horizon responded to someone doing the same thing with the aileron push rods. They even stated they contacted QQ and he replied they were meant to be that way because it provided differential.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1369

But if it works for you - great.

As far as which I consider a better choice. I have built foamies for some time, mainly stuck with the blue wonders - no complaints, however when I built the 3DHS Edge EPP, they recommended the hacker. Now I am no motor expert, but this is an incredible motor. So this is all I have to go by. They seem to be of very good quality. Again - just my assumption.

So I have no issues with Turningy, and would buy one right now if they had them. For the price, I can get 2 or 3 of them per Hacker....


As far as props, I like the 13x4 APC, as long as I am not breaking the tips Trying to harrier low, this is what I seem to damage most. Cost of learning. I also have the 12x6 APC, and truth be told, I can not really tell the difference yet - not that good, other than slowing it down.

Thanks again - I will start looking into those Turnigys.

By the way, I looked for a left handed drill bit, nothing seemed small enough (1.5mm).

Bob

Originally Posted by krexken

Typically only one setscrew will tighten down on a flat spot on the shaft. If the setscrew you removed is the one on the flat spot, I'd bet you can press it without too much of a problem....

Glad I tried this. I was able to press it out. I assume it wore off the end of the set screw, it only showed a gouge at the very end. I ran a file though it to be sure.

New shaft went on great. That little c-clip - got a little beat up in the process but seems to be holding on. They should provide one of these along wit the new shaft.


Thanks for the ideas...

Runs nice and smooth....at least I can now wait until they come back oin stock at HC.

See details here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1467400

This has the new mount, new fuse and extra 3200 mah battery. Ready to bind and fly!!

Originally Posted by helicow

xxxcellarator - just wanted to mention long ago in the original thread, before it got all merged with another thread, Horizon responded to someone doing the same thing with the aileron push rods. They even stated they contacted QQ and he replied they were meant to be that way because it provided differential.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1369

But if it works for you - great.

Hmm... interesting, I wasn't aware of that post. Although honestly, it still doesn't make sense to me to have that angle between the push rod and servo arm. The way I see it, you want to have the same Acute angle when the aileron is pushed down as the Obtuse angle when the aileron is pushed up. With the original angle, you get a much smaller Acute angle then the obtuse angle, so there's a higher chance of binding.

That's just how I see it. If you have a better/different explanation as to why it should be the way it was setup stock, I'de appreciate listening to it. And what do you mean by differential?

Ahhh, nvm, i see what the idea is now. Whether the servo arm moves towards or away from the aileron, the hole in the servo arm that the rod goes into always moves towards the fuse (towards the ball link on the horn). Therefore having that slight angle when the arm is exactly 90 degrees away from the ball link, means that when its full up or down it will have the same angle in the opposite direction of the ball link.

Yeah that makes sense. Although I still think that the original angle is just slightly too much. Since I added the wing skid to the side of the original horn, im going to move the ball on the same side, and that'll position it in the very center of the original horn. that should be a better angle in my opinion.

I have no real opinion here - it always did look strange and seemed like it would cause some tension.

I just left it that way because of that post. Did not want to introduce anything that I might be able to blame for issues (aka beginner).

I did set up the throws as in the manual. So if memory serves, didn't it set the down to the same as up aileron (65-70mm)? If so, then I am not sure the point of the angle. Maybe not remembering correctly.

Well gang i have close to a couple doz flts on her now and with each flt I warm up to her a bit more.

I can say one thing for sure: after having a rudder servo fail, I replaced all 4 stock servos with 82MG's & that sure does bring some peace of mind when I firewall the throttle.

Overall the 82MG's aren't quite as good as the stock units, but knowing it's unlikely I'll have one lock up on me in flt was worth the tradeoff.

What still amazes me about this model is how much power I have to carry into the landings. Same for you guys? I mixed in flaperons but aint sure they do anything....still fiddlin around w/ those.

But boy howdy going WOT into a full-bore blenders sure is fun. Such violent flying...I swear I cant see how she stays together when doing these.

Not bad for a cheap foamie.

Originally Posted by helicow

Would like opinions on this.

So here is my list so far.

• Turnigy 3025-850kv 1300w (182g )
• Turnigy 3648 Brushless Motor 850kv (136g)
• NTM Prop Drive 35-48 Series 900KV 815W (171g)
• Hacker A30-12L V2 500W, 1000 RPM (143g)
• Hacker A30-12XL V2 650W, 700 RPM (176g)
• Motrolfly 2820-950 1000W 950KV (152g)
• Motrolfly 2825-650 820W 767KV (182g)

Thanks,
Bob

Bob,

You may want to consider a Scorpion SII-3020-890kv (V2) motor. I've had good luck with Scorpion motors, esp. their latest v2 ones

See motor specs at;

http://arkrc.com.au/products/SC3020%...-%28V2%29.html

See prop data for this motor;

http://www.scorpionsystem.com/files/...data_chart.htm

Cheers,
TomC

Thanks TomC - they seem to be a little pricy. The V2 over $100. AMain has one for $69, but I assume that was the V1.

The stock motor is back in working order. Will keep it until I make a decision.

Just ordered some new batteries. I have 3, the stock one, a 3000 Sky Blue and a Nano Tech 2650.

The stock and nano tech push back work well. The 3000 pushed pack, great for hovering, but harriers are harder.

Anyways, I have never been too impressed by the nano tech and today it got real hot, not doing anything out of the normal for me. I think it also reached the cut off because the motor sounded like it pulsed (best description I can make).

So I figure this one is just wearing out. This time I am getting lighter/smaller batteries. Sky Blue 2200 40c (250g) and a Gen Ace 2200 30c (266g).

Will be nice to see how much they actually weigh, but I believe they will be much lighter than I am used to.

Will let you know what I think when I get them. The Sky Blue 3000 always comes done cool. Actually the stock one does too, at least for me.

Ripped the tip off the elev on a low harrier (again). This must have been glued back on now about 6 times.

Still get a lot of wing rock - assume it is me, but still working on it.

Bob

Originally Posted by xxxcellarator

If you have a better/different explanation as to why it should be the way it was setup stock, I'de appreciate listening to it. And what do you mean by differential?

Set the recommended high rate aileron throws and then move your TRX sticks for full high rate aileron deflection. The pushrod, control horn and servo arm should be aligned. This is not a standard installation that many of "us" are used to, but the stock AIL pushrod set-up prevents binding. I didn't believe it either until I switched my pushrods to a "conventional same side set-up" and was quickly proven that the stock set-up prevents binding, and the "conventional set-up" creates a bad angle when at full high rate deflection.... well, at least with my CZ set-up with the stock 3-rate throws.

LCS

Originally Posted by TomC

Bob,

You may want to consider a Scorpion SII-3020-890kv (V2) motor. I've had good luck with Scorpion motors, esp. their latest v2 ones

See motor specs at;

http://arkrc.com.au/products/SC3020%...-%28V2%29.html

See prop data for this motor;

http://www.scorpionsystem.com/files/...data_chart.htm

Cheers,
TomC

That motor seems to be a reasonable weight...I would try to stay around a 150g if you want to achieve a neutral cg with the stock battery

Originally Posted by poiyt

Well gang i have close to a couple doz flts on her now and with each flt I warm up to her a bit more.

I can say one thing for sure: after having a rudder servo fail, I replaced all 4 stock servos with 82MG's & that sure does bring some peace of mind when I firewall the throttle.

Overall the 82MG's aren't quite as good as the stock units, but knowing it's unlikely I'll have one lock up on me in flt was worth the tradeoff.

What still amazes me about this model is how much power I have to carry into the landings. Same for you guys? I mixed in flaperons but aint sure they do anything....still fiddlin around w/ those.

But boy howdy going WOT into a full-bore blenders sure is fun. Such violent flying...I swear I cant see how she stays together when doing these.

Not bad for a cheap foamie.

The 82MGs are stronger, much faster, and more durable, but they aren't as precise as the stock servos, and don't hold position as well. Good for hovering, waterfalls, snap movements, and quick 3D, but not great for fast flight and precision. I ran them for a while, but ended up with 5085s on the tail and 82s in the wings, also had 85MGs for a little while. The 85s seem to be geared a little lower, not as quick as 82s, but faster than stock, they also hold about the same, and are just as precise. The 5085s are pricey, but worth it, they are by far the most precise, and lock into position like a bank vault, the precision makes large aerobatics and precise rolling manuvers easy, you can balance moves like knife edges and rolling circles, the plane tracks like a razor with them. I like the fast 82s in the wings, still get the fast snaps, and can roll right, then left, then right as fast as I can move the sticks, and they make countering torque roll easier for me. If you don't like the feel of the 82s, either exchange the pair in the tail if you can at the shop, sell them, or use them for your next project, and try 85MGs or 5085s.

For landing, the plane doesn't need much speed, and can float in on a gentle glide slope, but moving the surfaces bleed speed off fast, and will stall it quick if you don't keep up on the throttle, kinda comes with the territory with planes like this. Use throttle to manage altitude, and elevator to slow the plane instead of the "conventional" idea that throttle controls speed, and elevator controls altitude. A larger tail wheel also can help keep the elevator counterbalances from ripping off. I wrapped them in packing tape, bent the tailwheel strut out a bit, and run a 1 1/2" tailwheel, and so far so good, adds more than an inch of clearance, but still doesn't lower the nose much. The 13X4 prop also can help slow landings, it has much more thrust, and spools quick, so you can use little bursts of throttle to slow descent, and give a quick burst if you are getting into trouble, and grease the landing where the stock, or 12X6 need you to get on the throttle sooner, and give it more throttle to do the same thing.

Originally Posted by poiyt

Guys I have a CZ Yak on the way....after having seen my buddy's fly.
And like a few guys on here, I really, really don't like the oem paint scheme- particularly the underside of the fuze & wings.

So....has anyone changed theirs? Can the oem paint be removed somehow (sanding?).

I fly inverted a lot and ain't lookin to go fancy- just to get the underside a bit higher-visibility and more in contrast with the topside.

Thx for the tips/warnings.

cheers
Jeff

Masking tape quite handily removes most of the oem rubberized paint except for in the small crevices around the batt compartment etc. Put it on, pull it off.

Here is the down side of the Turnigy 3648 Brushless Motor 850kv.

I looked for replacement shafts, could not find any, so a bent shaft basically will cost you a new motor.

According to HC "We are sorry that we do not have the requested part in our stock list. Manufacturer only sell the complete set of item to us as it is the minimum profit for them."

Cross this one off my list....Moving on.....

I've ordered a PNP and some 3000mAh 4S batteries, both of which should come in later this week. Are there any specific mods/checks that I should be prepared to do on this plane?

Thanks,

Alan