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Old Mar 23, 2015, 03:06 PM
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Claremore, Oklahoma
Joined Nov 2005
207 Posts
I have 48 flights on mine now and she's trimmed, mixed and flying beautifully. Just the slightest hint of pulling to the canopy in knife edge. A real pleasure to fly. No damage to the landing gear box as of yet caused by the composite struts. In fact, the struts have loosened up just a tad and are not quite as stiff as when I initially installed them. Their really working good and am now considering putting the strut fairings back on which might help the knife edge pull. I like the looks of the model both way's so not sure what i'll do and currently have the pull mixed out.

Jim
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Old Mar 24, 2015, 02:59 AM
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Sverige, Värmlands Län, Filipstad
Joined Jan 2009
1,354 Posts
Jim,
Since You can not change (easily) the stab or wing incidence (+/- angel of attack) You can try to have the model slightly more tail heavy to correct a pull to canopy in knife edge. But it might have negative effect on other things that present make the plane fly good in other attitudes/manouvers. Maybe You have heard of Bryan Heberts Triangulation trimming? It is good reading but perhaps not so easy to digest at first reading.
http://www.ckaero.net/blog/triangulation-trimming-2/ (part 1 and part 2)

/Bo
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Old Mar 24, 2015, 04:39 AM
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Claremore, Oklahoma
Joined Nov 2005
207 Posts
bossee, thank you very much for the recommendation. I did try moving the CG but didn't like the feel of the elevator. Currently, when I roll the model knife edge with no rudder input the nose drops gracefully and stays wings vertical. And when I add rudder the pull to canopy is very slight. I mixed in 3% of elevator to correct it and 2.5% of aileron. With these small mixes the model will knife edge, either side, across the field hands off using rudder only and only minor corrections needed for wind. I do use some of Bryan's trimming techniques but mainly use Peter Goldsmiths trimming guide. Both guides are great reading and as you stated, need to be read several times to really digest the information. I have also talked to Bill Cunningham about how he goes about trimming a plane. Seems everyone has their own variation of how to go about it. I plan on getting with Bill in the near future for a trimming session and see what he thinks about my current set up and get some pointers. With the current mixes I can also make rudder turns without the model diving , climbing or rolling. I will report back after I have Bill fly the plane. He may undo everything I've done. But currently I think the model is flying outstanding with no bad habits. I also found I had to tighten my rudder stick spring as I was unknowingly adding rudder for no apparent reason. I think it's a bad habit from all my years of helicopter flying.

I'm still very curious why the instructions want the plane set up with 3D throws. I did not follow those guidelines and set mine up with more traditional pattern throws. I am now in the 125% travel adjust range on high rates for what I feel is better servo resolution. That information gives you some idea of how slight my mix is. In fact, on the ground you can't even really see it. You have to put your fingers on the surface to feel it. My current throws are 15mm 10mm & 8mm (100, 65, 51 DR numbers) for ailerons and elevator and 45mm 35mm & 25mm (100, 75, 60 DR numbers) on rudder. Expo for all 3 is 40, 30, 20 with medium tight sticks. With these throws the model will still snap and spin nicely. It's a pattern plane, right? So why set it up with 40 degrees of throw and then cut everything way back so there is no servo resolution to speak of?? If I wanted a 3D plane, I would of bought one. I'm certainly open to that discussion. Maybe I'm missing something?

Thanks again for the suggestion!

Jim

P.S. I wish the wing and stab was more easily adjustable.
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Old Mar 24, 2015, 05:04 AM
ltc
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United States, MA, Mendon
Joined Mar 2010
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IIRC, some of the planes in the Wind family (110?) were available with 2 different tail options : pattern and 3D
Perhaps the manual is a carry over?

FWIW, I just purchased a copy of the TTG from Bryan
2pages, double sided laminated, easy to read and bring to the field (assuming the snow eventually melts)
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Old Mar 24, 2015, 05:24 AM
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Claremore, Oklahoma
Joined Nov 2005
207 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltc View Post
IIRC, some of the planes in the Wind family (110?) were available with 2 different tail options : pattern and 3D
Perhaps the manual is a carry over?
Don't think so ltc, as the Myhto manual wants you to do the same. I now have a template made for the elevator servo arm cut out. The new opening allows full travel with out linkage binding. I'm not using stock linkage. I use Secraft ball links on both ends.

Jim
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Old Mar 24, 2015, 08:56 AM
Julian T
Fleet, UK
Joined Jun 2005
576 Posts
+1 Jim. The Angel, Wind and Mytho are all superb F3A style models when trimmed and set up as such. The fact they can be 3D'd by extremely able pilots does not mean they are good at 3D - they aren't. I have not tried with the Mytho but the Angel sucked at it - unsurprisingly - even with 3D throws. I have other models from 48" to 78" designed for 3D that are far superior in that respect - unsurprisingly.
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