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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:17 PM
manual flying apologist
Adidas4275's Avatar
United States, CA, Fresno
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliDave View Post
If you're looking between the TS2 and a SW I'd say the Twin Star is a tougher build and more components, more money and less space. The TS2 is a great plane but I think more modding needs to be done on that plane compared to the SW. It is a bit smaller, but the lack of removable horizontal stabilizer makes it less "break-down-able" compared to the longer and wider SW with removable horizontal stab.

Visually I think the Twin Star 2 is one of the sexiest FPV planes out there (along with some delta wings), and the Skywalker is... well, totally ugly, but that's really not an issue unless you're looking at it.

Both are great builds for FPV, but I think the SW is better suited for FPV all around.

thanks for the info
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 08:55 PM
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Joined Jun 2010
628 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
You don't need a tutorial, or any special tool other than an exacto knife. Your LHS probably assumed you had a knife at least.

Cut a slot with the knife in both the stab and elevator the depth of half the hinge. Feed the hinge into both parts ensuring that it's straight and centred. Looking at your hinges, the little half round notches go on the sides. Ensure the control surface is not so close that it can't reach it's full travel, and hit it with some CA. After it's dry, give it a firm tug to test it.

HTH.
An easy method to set and maintain hinge depth before gluing is to pin the hinge after it is inserted in the slot.

1- Cut slots in the control surface and the stabilizer/wing to accomodate the hinge approximately the proper depth.

2- Insert the hinge in the stabilizer and measure to proper depth. Then use a pin to make sure it doesn't move. Do the other hinges in the same way.

REMEMBER YOU MUST DO ALL HINGES BEFORE GLUING.

3- Next push the control surface onto the protruding hinges that are set in the stabilizer surface.

4- Remove the pins and push the 2 surfaces together until they touch.

5- Now wiggle the control surface carefully to insure your target control throw plus a little more in each direction.

6- Without any further movement, put a drop or two of CA into each hinge slot on each side of the hinge.

7- Hold the assembly for a minute without movement. Then lay it flat on the bench for an hour.

8- Now wiggle the joint to break any excess CA.

I challenge you to pull the thing apart without ripping up the control surfaces!

Cliff
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 12:20 AM
Registered User
Back in Hong Kong
Joined Sep 2003
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New Skywalker V5.

Just test flew it.

I added no extra tape/carbon or strength to the wing. I use the glue supplied. I did add struts to the tail to get it straight and stiffen it up but thats all.

I tested it in steep full power dives with big pullups. Loops ,rolls, steep turns and flatout flyby's. I really rung it's neck. It was under way more load than it will ever be as an FPV ship. You could see the wings flexing.

There was no problem at all. I think that this version is much better than the past ones and without all the extra tape, carbon and fiberglass it has come out lighter.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 04:31 AM
KJ4YYJ
EugeneFlorida's Avatar
Saint Petersburg FL
Joined Jun 2009
708 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hornant View Post
New Skywalker V5.

Just test flew it.

I added no extra tape/carbon or strength to the wing. I use the glue supplied. I did add struts to the tail to get it straight and stiffen it up but thats all.

I tested it in steep full power dives with big pullups. Loops ,rolls, steep turns and flatout flyby's. I really rung it's neck. It was under way more load than it will ever be as an FPV ship. You could see the wings flexing.

There was no problem at all. I think that this version is much better than the past ones and without all the extra tape, carbon and fiberglass it has come out lighter.
What is your plane weight?
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 05:21 AM
Foam Snow
South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffkot View Post
An easy method to set and maintain hinge depth before gluing is to pin the hinge after it is inserted in the slot.

....

I challenge you to pull the thing apart without ripping up the control surfaces!

Cliff
Thanks Cliff!! Will give it a bash. Although - looking at the hinge - it seems like a very difficult thing to do. Did I buy too small a hinge?

Also, at the side where the hinge slot is supposed to be cut on the aileron - the surface is very thin, remember the aileron tapers off towards the wing?!

If you look at the picture below - is it the right side around??
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Last edited by heinduplessis; Oct 06, 2011 at 05:29 AM.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 05:30 AM
Foam Snow
South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Aug 2011
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Please delete

Please delete
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Last edited by heinduplessis; Oct 06, 2011 at 05:39 AM.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 05:42 AM
Foam Snow
South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
You don't need a tutorial, or any special tool other than an exacto knife. Your LHS probably assumed you had a knife at least.

Cut a slot with the knife in both the stab and elevator the depth of half the hinge. Feed the hinge into both parts ensuring that it's straight and centred. Looking at your hinges, the little half round notches go on the sides. Ensure the control surface is not so close that it can't reach it's full travel, and hit it with some CA. After it's dry, give it a firm tug to test it.

HTH.
Thanks subsonic, sounds do-able.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 05:51 AM
www.shop.trisembly.co.za
rcimports's Avatar
South Africa
Joined Oct 2005
1,570 Posts
@heinduplessis - You are probably going to get 10 different answers here, but from my perspective everything looks very nice and clean! Throws are more than fine, should fly well. You're last pic, my Stabilizer is even more out of alignment, and I don't really notice it at all,

Anything you've done catastrophically wrong? You're wing is not secured to the plane!!!

Cheers
Dion
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 06:38 AM
On a holiday?
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Uppsala, Sweden
Joined Sep 2008
3,571 Posts
I intend to use a DX201 mounted on a PT in the spot just before the wings behind the canopy. However I have two main designs and I can't decide on which to use?

I'll use Hitec HS65MG on both tilt and pan. The pan frame will be made out of aluminum. the camera and tilt servo mount will also be made out of alumium as well or kydex.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 06:39 AM
Foam Snow
South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcimports View Post
Anything you've done catastrophically wrong? You're wing is not secured to the plane!!!
ROFL I was waiting for that Thanks for the feedback I feel much more confident.

BTW - I see in the manual it says C.O.G. should be 75mm from leading edge. From what I see here, it should be 15-30mm behind the servo wire, which translates to at least 90mm from leading edge. Should I ignore the manual?
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 06:40 AM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
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Looks great to me. My only observation is that it looks like you have more down aileron than up. It should be the other way around so as to avoid any adverse yaw during an aileron turn. Adverse yaw can be caused by the tendency of the down going aileron creating more drag than the up going aileron, giving a strong yaw effect in opposition to roll.

Common practice is to mix in (mechanically or in the radio) some aileron differential to counteract this.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 07:36 AM
RTFM
octane81's Avatar
Antarctica
Joined Oct 2010
1,165 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by heinduplessis View Post
Just thought I'd post some pics of my now complete SW to get some comments and to see if I've done anything catastrophically wrong! Many thanks.
I would advice you to change the stock linkage stoppers , they are the worst!!
Even if you tighten them to the max , they will still loose grip after some flights.. and that WILL result in a hard landing remember safety when fpv'ing !!!
Get these , much much better !! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8519
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 07:57 AM
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Back in Hong Kong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EugeneFlorida View Post
What is your plane weight?
I have not had a chance to weigh it yet. But it is lighter than the last 2 I have built.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 08:06 AM
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Thint1's Avatar
Austria / Vienna
Joined Feb 2007
1,272 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by heinduplessis View Post
ROFL I was waiting for that Thanks for the feedback I feel much more confident.

BTW - I see in the manual it says C.O.G. should be 75mm from leading edge. From what I see here, it should be 15-30mm behind the servo wire, which translates to at least 90mm from leading edge. Should I ignore the manual?
yes, ignore the manual

moving the cg back results in better gliding behavior, but will cause instability.
iīve tested different cogīs, my skywalker weight: 2100g

original: gliding angle 1:brick, need much aileron up to get an flyable angle, but react nervous if underspeed/overspeed

0-25mm behind servo wire: getting better every few mm
25mm: optimum of gliding angle, speed spectrum and stability
25-35: angle getting better again, but sensible at underspeed and less selfstabilisation.
these measurements may vary at different weights an pilot skills, but 25mm will be a good start for your first flight.

my actual set is 30mm. issues at underspeed donīt matter in my case, because i use the optional flaps.

cheers Thomas
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