You want FPV?
Get a Parrot AR Drone

http://ardrone.parrot.com/parrot-ar-...w-does-it-work

Forward facing camera and downward facing camera.
Video goes to iPhone or IPod touch or
there are some Linux programs that get video to computer.
It is controlled via iPhone or android

I control mine with 2.4ghz RC rig -- easily modified

Since it was hard to get the video into something to record it
I have a HD keyfob (720p) camera mounted on it

It will carry a Go Pro HD hero camera.

It will lift a lot! and is real stable.

Originally Posted by caall99

You are my voice of reason! It is my intent to enjoy the GT 5888 as is... for now. But i would like to be the first to do something new and nearly impossible. I plan to build a quadcopter and plane for my actual FPV endeavors, but like the idea of a micro FPV setup. Nothing is set in stone, and there is a good chance i will abandon this project. In the end, it never hurts to stimulate the mind!

The G.T. Model site indicates that the 5888 uses 2 #0716 motors.

When I measured one I only measured the width of the shaft end, which is 6+mm.

Being a bit of a "numbers"-type, I thought about the nomenclature for this little overworked motor, so I remeasured the width and found out that the cylinder is tapered, and the wide "top" end [with the wires] is in fact 7mm.

So: 07mm width/ 16mm length > 0716


L

So i got my FPV equipment in. Unfortunately i didn't have enough shrink wrap or any quality solder to keep the weight down. All in all i was around 35 grams.... lol. much higher than my estimate, and i guarantee most of the weight is in electrical tape and thick wiring. I will throw this on a bigger helicopter and see how it goes.

I would never buy the AR Drone, it is too limited in functionality for the money you spend on it. Instead i am piecing together my quadcopter myself and the frame is the only thing i will purchase pre-built.

I didn't know budget was no problem. I got my drone for $200.
$130 to convert to 2.4Ghz control.
Functionality? What quadcopter functions are missing?

You could spend time flying your FPV or spend time building.

Building is fun.

Originally Posted by caall99

So i got my FPV equipment in. Unfortunately i didn't have enough shrink wrap or any quality solder to keep the weight down. All in all i was around 35 grams.... lol. much higher than my estimate, and i guarantee most of the weight is in electrical tape and thick wiring. I will throw this on a bigger helicopter and see how it goes.

I would never buy the AR Drone, it is too limited in functionality for the money you spend on it. Instead i am piecing together my quadcopter myself and the frame is the only thing i will purchase pre-built.

Originally Posted by cozmicray

I didn't know budget was no problem. I got my drone for $200.
$130 to convert to 2.4Ghz control.
Functionality? What quadcopter functions are missing?

You could spend time flying your FPV or spend time building.

Building is fun.

I understand your point, but for $200, i can have a powerful direct drive brushless drone, with a higher quality, and a higher frame rate camera that has no latency issues. Additionally my range will be at least 3000ft with this setup. Plus i get GPS way point navigation, direction and high altitude hold. As well as accelerometer functionality for a perfectly stable platform. Additionally i need a greater payload capacity for a Digital SLR. There are just more features and capability to be had when you DIY. And i love the building aspect more than the flying

This is OT for 5888

Please keep us updated on $200 rig with all that
minus the video gear

With that capability for $200 -- I'll build 3.

There is a Draganflyer V4 out on eBay for $8500??

How are you transmitting video? 2.4Ghz? Laser optical?

Originally Posted by caall99

I understand your point, but for $200, i can have a powerful direct drive brushless drone, with a higher quality, and a higher frame rate camera that has no latency issues. Additionally my range will be at least 3000ft with this setup. Plus i get GPS way point navigation, direction and high altitude hold. As well as accelerometer functionality for a perfectly stable platform. Additionally i need a greater payload capacity for a Digital SLR. There are just more features and capability to be had when you DIY. And i love the building aspect more than the flying

cozmicray, you were the first to go off topic i was talking about gt5888 and fpv, not AR drone.

btw, i am currently using 5.8ghz at 200 mw to transmit video.

Let me correct/clarify my cost estimate for a quad.

4 motors = $40
4 escs = $48
frame = $50
battery = $20
props = $10
camera = $30
Video Rx/Tx = $37
control board and sensors with external gps module, can be found for $100, rest is in the software and programming.

closer to $350 with shipping,

but $200 will get you a bare-bones quadcopter that outperforms the AR drone in speed, finesse, payload capacity, etc...

either way we should be comparing this to your drone at new cost which = $299, since the chances of me finding it for $200 are low.

Since the AR drone also requires an Ipad, iPod, or iPhone (which i do not have), maybe we should include these costs as well??? lol... then maybe i will include my 70 dollar Turnigy 9x Rx/Tx setup... hmm, $70 vs. $200 to $800.

In every regard the DIY quadcopter route for FPV is more appealing to me than an AR drone. Others may disagree... let them... i say, to each their own

Lee,

HELP!!

Just got my GT 5888, and took it for a couple test spins after greasing up the joints with model train lube. It appears when i move the right stick forward, to initiate forward flight, only one of the servo arms pulls down on the front of the swash. This causes the copter to move in a diagonal fashion. Like wise when i pull back. The other servo arm does work as it moves in other stick positions, but forward and backward flight only engage one arm.... could quality control have been poor, resulting in some leads being soldered together that shouldn't have been? Do i need to send this one back??

Other than that, this really is an amazing flying machine, i just really hope mine is repairable...

EDIT: forgot to mention that the heli is still somewhat unstable in the air even with the trims maxed out, and finally regardless of trim position, when the helicopter is just sitting there i notice a lot of noise coming from the servo area...

EDIT 2: I notice the servo arms move up and down together in a symmetrical fashion when i push my right stick to the top right. Both servo arms go down together, when i push the right stick to the bottom left. my battery life is absolutely horrendous. I think i get no more than 3 minutes air time.

Thanks!

caall99, your heli seems badly out of track & trim, else it would stay up longer (hopefully with an interim rest to cool).

Because the upper, stabilizing rotor is controlled by a flybar at 45°, not 90°, everything in the lower control rotor (controlled by the servos!) is skewed 45° in a counterclockwise direction [90° - 45°].

So in this configuration the right servo acts as if was inputting 45° further to the left. It acts like it was inputting from the front of the swashplate!

Thus the right servo IS the fore/aft servo! And the left servo is the L/R servo!


Trust me. Just memorize the above 2 sentences, whether or not they seem logical to you.


L

Originally Posted by xlcrlee

caall99, your heli seems badly out of track & trim, else it would stay up longer (hopefully with an interim rest to cool).

Because the upper, stabilizing rotor is controlled by a flybar at 45°, not 90°, everything in the lower control rotor (controlled by the servos!) is skewed 45° in a counterclockwise direction [90° - 45°].

So in this configuration the right servo acts as if was inputting 45° further to the left. It acts like it was inputting from the front of the swashplate!

Thus the right servo IS the fore/aft servo! And the left servo is the L/R servo!


Trust me. Just memorize the above 2 sentences, whether or not they seem logical to you.


L

Thanks Lee!!!!

You the man... it's gotta be that fantastic swiss blood... of which i have a bunch as well Let's hope it fairs me as well as it does for you!

1. I do notice the blades are not tracked perfectly, and there is some slight vibration.

2. The heli always tries to move back wards, and even with the trim maxed out, i still need to constantly provide a slight forward movement with the right stick to keep it hovering in place.

3. After a charge, the heli flies very strongly. About a minute later it struggles and wants to come down (at this point i see a noticeable drop in power). i let it come down and rest for a little (maybe 10-15 secs)... after this break i take off and it appears as if it gained battery charge magically, and the heli awakens with nearly full thrust... this cycle repeats its self every minute or so, and more frequently as the battery becomes more and more empty. T

Originally Posted by xlcrlee

caall99, your heli seems badly out of track & trim, else it would stay up longer (hopefully with an interim rest to cool).

Because the upper, stabilizing rotor is controlled by a flybar at 45°, not 90°, everything in the lower control rotor (controlled by the servos!) is skewed 45° in a counterclockwise direction [90° - 45°].

So in this configuration the right servo acts as if was inputting 45° further to the left. It acts like it was inputting from the front of the swashplate!

Thus the right servo IS the fore/aft servo! And the left servo is the L/R servo!


Trust me. Just memorize the above 2 sentences, whether or not they seem logical to you.


L

Thanks Lee!!!!

You the man... it's gotta be that fantastic swiss blood... of which i have a bunch as well Let's hope it fairs me as well as it does for you!

1. I do notice the blades are not tracked perfectly, and there is some slight vibration.

2. The heli always tries to move back wards, and even with the trim maxed out, i still need to constantly provide a slight forward movement with the right stick to keep it hovering in place. Shall i pop off the ball joint arms and give them a couple turns each. They seem very delicate, how do you recommend i take them off?

3. After a charge, the heli flies very strongly. About a minute later it struggles and wants to come down (at this point i see a noticeable drop in power). i let it come down and rest for a little (maybe 10-15 secs)... after this break i take off and it appears as if it gained battery charge magically, and the heli awakens with nearly full thrust... this cycle repeats its self every minute or so, and more frequently as the battery becomes more and more empty. This does not seem right.

Thanks.

Lee,

Both my motors have white tops (when i say tops i mean as in looking down onto the heli, while it is sitting on its landing gear). I heard only one was supposed to be white...

My motors have never gotten warm or hot. The metal surround the motor cage has never gotten warm.

Weird.

caall99, the white motors are the strongest (so far). Only if one of the motors, normally the LEFT, is gray-colored, will there be decreased power.

Your heli SEEMS to gain power because "hot" motors [the temp rise is only noticable by touching with your lower lip!] need more power to turn > the friction of the motor shaft in the "bearing" hole [there IS no bearing!] causes the shaft to heat and expand in the hole and tighten! It's like resting your muscles to let the use-"poisons" dissipate from the muscles: then you have more power [Cheetahs have to rest for a day to restore their power after a fast chase!].

Put lube on the ball joints, support the arms from behind with small scissors and use your fingernails on two opposite sides of the socket/ball-holder [ring-shaped > NOTE one side of the hole is LARGER and that side MUST be the one into which the ball is inserted .... else KAPUTT!!!!!] to pull the socket/ball-holder straight out. After turning the socket/ball-holder end, before re-inserting, loosely hold it against the ball on the right servo [L/R] to see if the swashplate is L/R horizontal when the rotor shaft is pulled upward to simulate flight (the swashplate falls when not being lifted in flight). That way you'll get a rough idea of your adjustment [the more you play with the ball joint the more likely it is to break!].

Good Luck,
Lee

Hey guys - as some of you may know you can bind the 5888 remote to the 9958 helicopter.

Well - you can also bind the Turnigy 9x to the 9958 AND the 5888!

5888 helicopter binding to Turnigy 9x instructions (2 min 20 sec)

and the setup

Binding and programming Turnigy 9x to 9958 5888 hk-190 msp190 helicopter (6 min 3 sec)

Cool!

What would be great is if someone can find out how to bind a 5888 Tx to another 5888 Rx [not the pair as shipped together & factory-bound] ....

L