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I'm glad I bought both. I love the simplicity and easy, relaxing nature of the original Radian. Can see it being my "go to" plane when conditions are calm and I think the Pro will be for when the wind picks up. But if I had to choose one I think it would be the original Radian. I'm no expert so this is just my point of view as a glider newby. |
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Weather forecast for tomorrow is easterly winds about 10-15 knots so I'm going to stick the #16 key chain camera on and hopefully take some nice slope soaring video. |
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Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,322 Posts
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Also as far as CG is 77mm from the leading edge what you all use or the 70mm that the manual says? Seems at 77mm on my fingertips I almost have to get the battery out of its hole to balance. I'm probably gonna rig up something tonight to balance it properly without my fingers. Also the CG should be checked with the prop folded in right? |
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Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,322 Posts
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When you put the arrow shaft in the fuselage, did you first remove the fiberglass spar, or is it still in there. With all the mods you did, how much weight do you think you added to the tail? Maybe that is why you have to push the battery forward to get 77. |
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Good pictures of it here |
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Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,322 Posts
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If for whatever reason you need to move the battery ahead, an easy way is to simply switch the locations of the ESC and the battery. That's what I did when I first got the plane and wanted to get it to 70 as per the manual. Now the battery is back in the battery compartment and it is pretty close to 77. It would be a good option for somebody using a tail-cam. |
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Another thing that people don't think about is that you need to move your control rods on the horns/servo arms when you reduce your throws and not just dial it back in the radio. The full travel of the servo has a number of discrete steps (256, 512 or 1024 depending on the radio - this is a function of the D to A converter used in the electronics) and if you set your rates/travel adjustment to 50%, you use half of them. This means that as you move the stick the control jumps a step at a time to move. If you are set up with miniscule travel ranges (extreme case example here) such as 10% and you have a 256 step radio, you only have 25 positions for the control surface and this makes errors for the slop in your linkage and the centering of your servo much worse over the range of the movement (amplifies the error) When setting up a 3D plane, it is recommended that you set your radio to the maximum travel, 150% on some, and then adjust the hole on the servo arm and control horn to get the movement desired so even if you only have 10% of the possible motion, you get (in the example above) 256 discrete positions of the control surface and much more precise control. This can also sometimes be seen when using trims and one click is wrong in a direction but a click the other way is in the other direction because (in the example above) your 25 step surface travels 10 steps for the click versus one by one in the 256 (150%) step case. This is also why more expensive radios tend to have higher resolution (more bits in the D to A converter) |
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