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Old Mar 09, 2007, 08:29 PM
Hep
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Nano Soldering Hell - Tips and Tricks?

There must be a better way.

JASON! Any thoughts?

Has anyone made a soldering jig for acuator wire extensions, etc?

I've considered digging very shallow thin ruts into some 1/4" balsa, pressing the actuator wires and the nano connector pins into the ruts with a plastic toothpick then oozing some solder into the channel.

I find soldering enameled baby-hair-thin wire to the tips of connectors and component pads a little tedious to say the least. (e.g. Plantraco Hingeact wire to a nano connector to make an extension) I can do it but it's frustrating, particularly when you get an actuator hooked up and working, only to snap a filament loose in the mounting process because the solder joint wasn't strong or a wire snapped.

I've invested in snaking mag lights, tweezers and a fine-tip soldering iron. These things certainly help, but it still drives me nuts.

Thoughts on the attached idea and things that have worked for you?
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Old Mar 09, 2007, 09:29 PM
s15
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use sillyputty to hold it in place, did you remove the insilation off the wire? To solder it on the connector i would wrap some wire around the tab then solder it on
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Old Mar 09, 2007, 09:45 PM
Hep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s15
use sillyputty to hold it in place, did you remove the insilation off the wire? To solder it on the connector i would wrap some wire around the tab then solder it on
THANKS! That's a good sounding idea. So if you were soldering those wires to a nano connector, you would press the connector a little bit into the putty, then position the wire on the tab and drip solder over the joint?

I don't know how I would wrap this wire around leads. Are you a brain surgeon by trade? It's all I can do to un-twist the pair, position it and straighten it enough to solder-strip and tin the end.

I removed the insulation with a ball of fresh solder as shown in Jason's video.
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Old Mar 09, 2007, 09:54 PM
s15
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its really hard but if you hold a bit of the wire buy the black part then use the other hand and wrap around the tab then solder. after that cut the bit of wire left from the area were you held it in place
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Old Mar 10, 2007, 02:33 AM
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I would suggest you invest in a Panavise or clone. I found a Chinese version for $3.99
that has a magnifier and dual holders. Having positionalble clamps makes this stuff much easier and not having melted silly putty on my connectors is nice too
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Old Mar 10, 2007, 03:25 AM
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I have a small ceramic tile I use as a surface to solder upon. For the nano connectors, I tape them to the tile with masking tape.

Rather than struggle with feeding solder to the joint, I just leave a little extra solder on the connector pins when I tin them. You don't need much to make a good joint. Then I use a toothpick to place a dab of flux to the pre-tined connector pins and a bit to the pre-tinned ends of the magnet wire. I then line up the wire ends with the pins of the taped down connector.

One way to keep the wires steady is to press the wire down with a free finger and then rock your finger back so the wire lifts up to meet the connector pin. You can control the wire pretty well this way. Once everything is lined up, I just tap the pin/wire junction with the iron.

That's when I usually realize I forgot something... the heat shrink.

Mark
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Old Mar 10, 2007, 08:34 AM
Hep
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Something like this? Can you post the link for the one you found as well?

http://www.panaviseonline.com/product.php?id=150

Quote:
Originally Posted by crossup
I would suggest you invest in a Panavise or clone. I found a Chinese version for $3.99
that has a magnifier and dual holders. Having positionalble clamps makes this stuff much easier and not having melted silly putty on my connectors is nice too
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Old Mar 10, 2007, 09:08 AM
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soory Hep, I can't remember where I got it, WHOA it just came to me- RADIO SHACK twas on sale with what looked like close out stuff...I'll see if I can locate it on RS's site
but I dont recommend it as a primary tool, I mentioned it mostly to show you dont have to pay PANAVISE prices to have something useful but on the other hand, I will be getting the PANAVISE stuff someday as quality tools are always
worth the money


OK, still listed at $12.99:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

problem with this one is the clamps are not movable on the crossbar so its more suited to bigger items although there are no end of work arounds for that
http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...266298w345.jpg
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Old Mar 10, 2007, 11:38 AM
Hep
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I'll buy that for a $. Thanks for the recommendation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crossup
soory Hep, I can't remember where I got it, WHOA it just came to me- RADIO SHACK twas on sale with what looked like close out stuff...I'll see if I can locate it on RS's site
but I dont recommend it as a primary tool, I mentioned it mostly to show you dont have to pay PANAVISE prices to have something useful but on the other hand, I will be getting the PANAVISE stuff someday as quality tools are always
worth the money


OK, still listed at $12.99:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

problem with this one is the clamps are not movable on the crossbar so its more suited to bigger items although there are no end of work arounds for that
http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...266298w345.jpg
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Old Mar 10, 2007, 06:02 PM
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I pulled the pin out of the nano plug and wrapped the actuator wire around the
single pin. Then put a small clip on the wire and pin, pressed the other end of the actuator wire in some blue tack to hold it in place.Then soldered and put a peice of shrink tube over the joint.
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 01:20 AM
Hep
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This from Jason at Plantraco

1. Build yourself a jig by gluing a female connector to a scrap block of wood. For extra functionality you can solder wires to the back of the female connector and then connect an ohmmeter while soldering your pins to confirm you have solid connection.


2. Plug in your male connector, trim the "solder side" pins on the connector to 1/2 to1/3 the original length.
This will keep the shrink tube from shorting out the pins when shrunk.


3. Trim the wires to even length, Tin the wire by slowly piercing the wire into a 1-2mm sphere of hot solder on the end of your soldering iron. The iron must be 675 deg. F. The coating on the wire will roll up the wire when done properly. If you do this step to fast, the coating will be submersed in the solder and will get deep fried onto the wire, making it very hard to get off.
http://www.plantraco.com/hobbies/video.html


4. Slide a piece of shrink tubing over the wire, you will not have another chance to do this.


5. Apply a small amount to flux with a toothpick to the pins.


6. Using a small, pointed pair of tweezers - hold the tinned area of the wire and then wrap the wire around the tweezers once. This will create a little loop on the tinned area of the wire. Slip the loop over the fluxed pin and holding the wire in one hand and the short tail end of the loop with the tweezers cinch the loop snug to the pin. This wire wrap technique will make the soldering very easy if you're new to soldering at this scale.


6. Then just touch the iron to the pin, with a small amount of solder. You want the wire to be just barely submerged in solder. Too much solder and you could have a problem with the pins shorting when the shrink tube squeezes them closer together.


7. Test the resistance making sure you have continuity and that you don't have a short. Cut off the extra tail of the loop, and shrink the tube and pinch it closed as it will never shrink to the diameter of the wire. Test the resistance again, a shorted connector could damage your receiver.


For extra durability you can use a bit of CA to glue the shrink tube to the insulator on the pins.


Regards,

Jason Toews
Operations Manager
Plantraco.com
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 07:33 AM
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one note: I find this(below) technique works all the way down to 390F deg IF you are patient, just keep pushing the wire into to and out of the soldier blob
almost all wire coating sucumb to this also a lite pre sanding with very fine paper helps if your up to it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hep
1.

Tin the wire by slowly piercing the wire into a 1-2mm sphere of hot solder on the end of your soldering iron. The iron must be 675 deg. F. The coating on the wire will roll up the wire when done properly. If you do this step to fast, the coating will be submersed in the solder and will get deep fried onto the wire, making it very hard to get off.
http://www.plantraco.com/hobbies/video.html





Plantraco.com
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 09:28 AM
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A few additional points, if the pin and the wire are tinned properly then you need no further solder, place one on the other and apply heat with a clean iron.

When tinning wire it can be easier to tin a section slightly away from the end, then trim so you have just the right length of tinned section, not too long as that can cause shorts.

When tinning, try to do it quickly, try to ensure that the solder on the wire/pin at the end of the process is just freshly melted. Tipping wires into dull blobs of solder that have been hanging off the iron for a long time means you have no flux left and that won't help the joints.

I'm a fan of lots of heat and just as much speed. Crock clips, hair clips and the like can all help to hold items as can just a "heavy thing". Puttys can have a habit of melting but do have a place.

Graham
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 12:15 PM
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Another trick that works well uses paste solder flux. Apply a good sized dab of paste flux to a piece of light cardboard and with a hot iron that has solder on the tip, gently stroke the fine wire against the cardboard. The flux is very aggressive when confined like that. You'll find that you'll save that cardboard piece with its saturated spot of flux for later use. Just keep adding more flux when it doesn't fume anymore.

Dave
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hep
The iron must be 675 deg. F.

Regards,

Jason Toews
Operations Manager
Plantraco.com
How many watts is 675 deg ? I remeber a post where Plantraco said 200 degrees. to fix something.
How do I convert degrees to watts?
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