|Sep 18, 2012, 02:13 PM|
United Kingdom, England, Reigate
Joined Oct 2011
I have built several radio assist vintage models powered by little diesels.
I found a half built Keil Kraft Slicker Mite 32"w/s, it is so pretty all eliptical and rounded and I want to put in small radio (DSM clone would be ok) and a little outrunner etc. As there is very little room it will have to be tiny stuff
I know in life you get nothing for nothing, but if any of you can suggest suitable set ups I would be forced to completely reapraise humanity and further more be really grateful and have an elegant model to fly
I am in the UK
|Sep 18, 2012, 02:59 PM|
Welcome to the wonderful world of electric RC oldtimers!
I recently went through the process of selecting equipment for a very small (22" span) one. These posts and links may help you:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22732739&postcount=3 and http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=12.
Your model is a good bit larger than the one I described there, so you'll need a larger motor. These are well regarded: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8476 or, for a bit more power, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6311.
I believe you can also get these locally there in the UK, just rebranded.
They would be good with something like a 2S450 lipo. Hobby King has many, or you may prefer to buy one locally.
Don't be afraid to ask any questions you may have as you go along. You'll get lots of help here. And no doubt the real experts in this stuff will be along shortly.
Let us know how it goes!
|Sep 18, 2012, 04:45 PM|
Assuming your Slicker is going to weigh around 6 ounces, BRC Hobbies little BRC1811 outrunner (http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=sh...8Outrunners%29 with a 6 amp ESC would be a good choice, very reasonably priced and I have three flying 30 to 36 inch 5 to 8 ounce models very happily. For Radio the little Hobbyking servos Harry recommends would be good with a Hobbyking Orange 6 channel 2.4 gig Rx. BRC have a suitable 240 2S lipo, anything from 240 (see http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=sh...=2S+%287.4V%29 to 450 would be good.
The Mite, in common with most vintage power models has a short nose, you will need to get the battery right up front and keep the tail end light as the little outrunner will be much lighter than the DC Dart or Mills 0.75 diesels commonly used in these models originally. No reason at all why it shouldn't make an excellent little R/C park flyer though. You will find that you only need quite small rudder and elevator control surfaces and even these will not need big movements, otherwise control will be very twitchy.
|Sep 21, 2012, 11:35 AM|
United Kingdom, England, Reigate
Joined Oct 2011
Well thank you very much, it seems BRC hobbies is the way forward, speaking electrically.
I will have to use (I think they are called) snakes as it gets very cramped towards the tail for moving the now what will be tiny control surfaces.
Hopefully I can get a battery in the shape that will fit right up front, because as you say there will be cg problems or weight issues otherwise.
On my last radio assist I used Oracover, mainly for reasons of fuel proofness, but I think I will go with Mylar and tissue, although it doesn't look straightforward.
Here I hope is a picture of it, the ubiqiutous Tomboy, which after 100s of flights still looks like new, I hid everything under the pilot. It flies fantastically, but the boxy shape, all full of corners will never approach the grace of a Slicker.
|Sep 21, 2012, 12:09 PM|
Hi 15F - glad you found the input useful.
That is a very nice looking Tomboy, what is the motor? Mine is electric, see below.
I love tissue over mylar and use it all the time, but I think that you would be well advised to try it first on something a little simpler in shape and maybe a bit bigger than the Slicker - it isn't difficult as such but there is a technique to acquire and the smaller the model and the more curves, the trickier it is!
Regarding control linkages, yes, it is going to be tight at the tail end, you might like to consider closed loop for the rudder (example below on my Eastbourne Monoplane) espeicially as this is very light, and either a thin snake or a 1.5 mm carbon fibre push rod for the elevator.
Battery; you really need one as long and thin as possible to get it into the nose. I don't know if they are still available but I have a couple of 300 Mah "Lightstorm" 2S/20C packs which would fit very well (photo below mounted to go in my 1.8x KK Sportster), they are only 23 mm wide by 55 mm long by 12 mm thick and give 8 to 12 minute flights with the 1811 motor depending upon the prop used.
Looking forward to hearing how you get on with the electric Mite.
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