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Old Dec 06, 2012, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
If you have done the 3GX set up 5~10 times I think you probably can skip through it fairly quickly but this is my second run through and I have to keep looking back at the PC and scrolling the window... the PC app is OK for confirming but I would much rather have a PDF that I can print and read off for the setup. I mean - the first time I did the RX2702V I thought it was tricky... after re-writing the manual I found it was actually a doddle...

Maybe I'll write a 3GX one too...
It never seems to hurt. Especially if you write things step by step. Manuals always get so technical. When i first looked at my beastX manual i was like But then i started doing the steps and realized.... HEY, they just used too many words to describe "push button, move rudder, push button. Done" i sat here reading and being frustrated for 20 minutes and thats all i had to do!?? I should have just done that in the first place! ( )
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Actually it doesn't sound like the 3GX and BeastX setup processes are all that different, the 3GX has all the indicator LEDs and whatnot, no counting flashes.The PITA on the 250 is just that the unit is on the bottom so you can't see it and hitting the button is tough, if it were on the top it would be 100 times easier.

My day job is working with some of the oldest and most finicky software on the planet so crappy taiwanese software has nothing on some of the stuff they wrote in the 60s that's still being used.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TucsonFlyer View Post
Actually it doesn't sound like the 3GX and BeastX setup processes are all that different, the 3GX has all the indicator LEDs and whatnot, no counting flashes.The PITA on the 250 is just that the unit is on the bottom so you can't see it and hitting the button is tough, if it were on the top it would be 100 times easier.

My day job is working with some of the oldest and most finicky software on the planet so crappy taiwanese software has nothing on some of the stuff they wrote in the 60s that's still being used.
Couldn't you program it outside and then install it after? At least for the initial setup?
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 03:45 AM
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It's a build.

Thwaitm, beautiful picture of your 250, Align needs that one for their office wall!

Just got done with the build on my 250DFC.
Looks very good, even without shortening the wires.
I ended up purchasing a Spectrum TX and also a AR6115e reciever instead of working out a Devo install. The little Spectrum RX I mounted in the customary location just behind the swashplate anti rotation fitting. Perfect spot! I had to make a platform for it but my 120 series tail boom servo side mount plates worked out perfectly for the job. Just had to drill a couple holes in the carbon fiber fuselage sides to attach them.
That brings me to a tip for locating and drilling holes in carbon fiber fuselage side panels or whatever. I needed to locate the mounting tabs for my RX so the upper surface of the 90 degee tab was flush with the top edge surface of the fuselage sides. It had to be accurate or the flat mouting surface for the RX would end up to high or to low for the job. The hole would have to be drilled close to the edge of the fuselage panel becase of the small size of the mount and carbon fiber is very slick so starting a hole with a drill bit is tricky, you end up with the hole but it might not be where you wanted it.
So here is my tip I dreamed up to make it easy. Put 3M double sided tape on whatever you want to attach to your fuselage. Stick it to the outside of the carbon fiber fuselage plate in the exact position you want it mounted (in my case I had them mounted on the outside and then after drilling mounted them on the inside surface of the fuselage side). Get out you Dremel and with the item stuck to the fuselage, drill the holes useing whatever it is your mounting as the guide. After the hole has been drilled, remove it and the tape and mount the item with hardware.
It worked perfectly for my RX mounting tabs, they ended up flush with the top edge of the fuselage sides which is where they had to be. If your drilling multiple holes for mounting something, it makes it fool proof.
Pictures to follow.

I mounted my 3GX to the belly panel right side up with the plugs aft.
It worked out better for me with the wiring and if you know my past M120 mods thats where I put it's RX/Gyro to get it away from the dynamic componants and the vibrations they produce. The only problem is the small space to work with and possible vibration introduced into the gyro from the wire contacting the tail servo, it's very tough to get clearance between the two.
I don't know what all the fuss is about with pushing the button to get into DIR mode for rigging while connecting the battery....your wife, girlfriend or kids have a spare finger.
Looking forward to some flight time this week end.
The cramped 250 fuselage really makes me appreciate the V200 fuselage, it would be very simple adding the 3GX to it, plenty of space.

What do you guy's use to glue the motor pinion to the motor shaft?

Viking
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 03:55 AM
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Thanks for the compliment Viking! I was quite happy with that - taken with an iPhone too!

I'm thinking to try the 3GX stuck on the V450... just to see if I should bid on ebay for another 3GX... or suck it up and put a uBeast on it after IHWK's rave... seems like total overkill for the amount I fly it though! With the current JPY-USD rate $100 for a 3GX would be bareable... but $200... I would need to buy an X5 for that... and then I need a new house or at least a new wife... could get kinda expensive! LOL!
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 04:13 AM
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i like vctrc rc helicopter more than walkera , you guys know vctrc helis ?
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
I mounted my 3GX to the belly panel right side up with the plugs aft.
It worked out better for me with the wiring and if you know my past M120 mods thats where I put it's RX/Gyro to get it away from the dynamic componants and the vibrations they produce. The only problem is the small space to work with and possible vibration introduced into the gyro from the wire contacting the tail servo, it's very tough to get clearance between the two.
I don't know what all the fuss is about with pushing the button to get into DIR mode for rigging while connecting the battery....your wife, girlfriend or kids have a spare finger.
Looking forward to some flight time this week end.
The cramped 250 fuselage really makes me appreciate the V200 fuselage, it would be very simple adding the 3GX to it, plenty of space.

What do you guy's use to glue the motor pinion to the motor shaft?

Viking
With the pins aft are you able to get the USB dongle connector into the port? I did my initial install pins aft and the side frame blocked the port Even worse, pins aft was the easiest way to get at the pots and control face. Mounting it pins fwd made it harder to use but I could get to the port. Unfortunately you really need to connect to the computer to tame things down on this thing otherwise I might have risked just leaving the port blocked.

I used loctite "green" bearing retainer for the pinion. I had no luck at the hardware stores but it turns out to be easy to find at automotive supply shops. If you just ask for green bearing retainer they'll know what you mean, what I got wasn't branded loctite but in the fine print it says "by loctite" go figure. Anyways I cleaned the shaft and pinion with alcohol and then used a q-tip to coat the shaft and pinion. After I put a drop on the top and bottom where the shaft and pinion meet since the stuff will wick into any gap left in there. BTW the stuff is so thin you'll just make a mess with a toothpick since it won't bead up.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TucsonFlyer View Post
With the pins aft are you able to get the USB dongle connector into the port? I did my initial install pins aft and the side frame blocked the port Even worse, pins aft was the easiest way to get at the pots and control face. Mounting it pins fwd made it harder to use but I could get to the port. Unfortunately you really need to connect to the computer to tame things down on this thing otherwise I might have risked just leaving the port blocked.

I used loctite "green" bearing retainer for the pinion. I had no luck at the hardware stores but it turns out to be easy to find at automotive supply shops. If you just ask for green bearing retainer they'll know what you mean, what I got wasn't branded loctite but in the fine print it says "by loctite" go figure. Anyways I cleaned the shaft and pinion with alcohol and then used a q-tip to coat the shaft and pinion. After I put a drop on the top and bottom where the shaft and pinion meet since the stuff will wick into any gap left in there. BTW the stuff is so thin you'll just make a mess with a toothpick since it won't bead up.
Tucson,
Thanks for the info!
See the photos of my RX install and the 3GX mounted right side up on the lower deck I had a better time with the wires and I could still reach the programing button for setup. That's all I can do with it installed this way so to do the rest of the setup I will drop the lower belly/landing gear panel down to get at the 3GX to see the lights and make adjustments to the pots. Not the best situation but I don't mind at all, it's only 6 little screws and takes all of 30 seconds to drop the panel down for access. There is enough slack in the wire harness to allow this.
You can also see the carbon fiber pitch chage tube I made as a replacement for the wire rod. It really worked good on the V200 so I hope the result will be the same for the 250DFC.
I'll shorten the wires latter to clean up the look and lighten the load after I determine everything is where it should be and working properly.
If I wanted access to the USB port I would only have to mill a small amount of carbon fiber away to have access, see the photos.
Trying to finish programing the 3GX tonight to allow flight in the morning but I don't know if I will make it.

Viking
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 07:34 PM
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Looking good there!

If it'll help you out I've attatched my base setup file, for the 3GX v 3.0 firmware. It's essentially the same as my 2.1 settings so they should work fine on 2.1 too. This will give you a nice fairly mild setup that's roughly equivilent to my V200 in terms of cyclic response. I have flown this on 12* and 13* of collective and it works well for both! Make sure you check your precomp and tail gyro settings since your 3gx is inverted from mine. Whether you use it or not I cannot stress how highly I recommend not using the default roll rates, they start at 50 I think and really need to be at 15 or 20 for the 250.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
Tucson,
Thanks for the info!
See the photos of my RX install and the 3GX mounted right side up on the lower deck I had a better time with the wires and I could still reach the programing button for setup. That's all I can do with it installed this way so to do the rest of the setup I will drop the lower belly/landing gear panel down to get at the 3GX to see the lights and make adjustments to the pots. Not the best situation but I don't mind at all, it's only 6 little screws and takes all of 30 seconds to drop the panel down for access. There is enough slack in the wire harness to allow this.
You can also see the carbon fiber pitch chage tube I made as a replacement for the wire rod. It really worked good on the V200 so I hope the result will be the same for the 250DFC.
I'll shorten the wires latter to clean up the look and lighten the load after I determine everything is where it should be and working properly.
If I wanted access to the USB port I would only have to mill a small amount of carbon fiber away to have access, see the photos.
Trying to finish programing the 3GX tonight to allow flight in the morning but I don't know if I will make it.

Viking
Now, now everyone - let's keep this thread on topic. There's still some love out there for the V200D03.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 10:12 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
Thwaitm, beautiful picture of your 250, Align needs that one for their office wall!

Just got done with the build on my 250DFC.
Looks very good, even without shortening the wires.
I ended up purchasing a Spectrum TX and also a AR6115e reciever instead of working out a Devo install. The little Spectrum RX I mounted in the customary location just behind the swashplate anti rotation fitting. Perfect spot! I had to make a platform for it but my 120 series tail boom servo side mount plates worked out perfectly for the job. Just had to drill a couple holes in the carbon fiber fuselage sides to attach them.
That brings me to a tip for locating and drilling holes in carbon fiber fuselage side panels or whatever. I needed to locate the mounting tabs for my RX so the upper surface of the 90 degee tab was flush with the top edge surface of the fuselage sides. It had to be accurate or the flat mouting surface for the RX would end up to high or to low for the job. The hole would have to be drilled close to the edge of the fuselage panel becase of the small size of the mount and carbon fiber is very slick so starting a hole with a drill bit is tricky, you end up with the hole but it might not be where you wanted it.
So here is my tip I dreamed up to make it easy. Put 3M double sided tape on whatever you want to attach to your fuselage. Stick it to the outside of the carbon fiber fuselage plate in the exact position you want it mounted (in my case I had them mounted on the outside and then after drilling mounted them on the inside surface of the fuselage side). Get out you Dremel and with the item stuck to the fuselage, drill the holes useing whatever it is your mounting as the guide. After the hole has been drilled, remove it and the tape and mount the item with hardware.
It worked perfectly for my RX mounting tabs, they ended up flush with the top edge of the fuselage sides which is where they had to be. If your drilling multiple holes for mounting something, it makes it fool proof.
Pictures to follow.

I mounted my 3GX to the belly panel right side up with the plugs aft.
It worked out better for me with the wiring and if you know my past M120 mods thats where I put it's RX/Gyro to get it away from the dynamic componants and the vibrations they produce. The only problem is the small space to work with and possible vibration introduced into the gyro from the wire contacting the tail servo, it's very tough to get clearance between the two.
I don't know what all the fuss is about with pushing the button to get into DIR mode for rigging while connecting the battery....your wife, girlfriend or kids have a spare finger.
Looking forward to some flight time this week end.
The cramped 250 fuselage really makes me appreciate the V200 fuselage, it would be very simple adding the 3GX to it, plenty of space.

What do you guy's use to glue the motor pinion to the motor shaft?

Viking
Way to go! I didn't think you would honestly get a Spek. That would have been my first recommendation I'm pretty sure you will have no regrets with this whole heli now. I'm sure. You've completely eliminated any wild cards and should have nothing but success. I'm sure your build is right too. So you should be loving that thing! Seriously making me a little jealous.



Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
Thanks for the compliment Viking! I was quite happy with that - taken with an iPhone too!

I'm thinking to try the 3GX stuck on the V450... just to see if I should bid on ebay for another 3GX... or suck it up and put a uBeast on it after IHWK's rave... seems like total overkill for the amount I fly it though! With the current JPY-USD rate $100 for a 3GX would be bareable... but $200... I would need to buy an X5 for that... and then I need a new house or at least a new wife... could get kinda expensive! LOL!
I want to try a 3GX myself. I really have no doubt that the 3GX works good. I still think the BeastX gyros perform better and probably have better over all programming and functionality. Mostly speculation though. But for the cost difference, i have no regrets recommending someone get a 3GX to save money. But honestly, for my money, if i'm trying to save it. I want to try the $50-100 gyros myself. it's the Robird, ZYX or this new "VCTRC 3GX". The VCTRC 3GX is supposed to be, basically a BeastX clone. It looks very similar and has the 14 LED bulbs on the face too. It's shaped different and is a little bigger. But it's only like $58 or something. I can't trust any of these gyros on a heli i care about, at least not till i try them. But i plan on one day testing them out in my 450, since i don't care if that one takes a dirt nap.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Samhobby View Post
i like vctrc rc helicopter more than walkera , you guys know vctrc helis ?
Yes, in fact someone recently PMed me telling me about their 3GX gyro and recommended that i add it to my list of "budget" gyros to test out at a later date. I plan to if i ever get some money or if anyone ever loans me one

I still have yet to investigate their heli, the mechanics or any other electronics they provide. I know nothing about the heli brand. I think they are just a cloner company? They probably don't make RTF helicopters either?


Quote:
Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
Tucson,
Thanks for the info!
See the photos of my RX install and the 3GX mounted right side up on the lower deck I had a better time with the wires and I could still reach the programing button for setup. That's all I can do with it installed this way so to do the rest of the setup I will drop the lower belly/landing gear panel down to get at the 3GX to see the lights and make adjustments to the pots. Not the best situation but I don't mind at all, it's only 6 little screws and takes all of 30 seconds to drop the panel down for access. There is enough slack in the wire harness to allow this.
You can also see the carbon fiber pitch chage tube I made as a replacement for the wire rod. It really worked good on the V200 so I hope the result will be the same for the 250DFC.
I'll shorten the wires latter to clean up the look and lighten the load after I determine everything is where it should be and working properly.
If I wanted access to the USB port I would only have to mill a small amount of carbon fiber away to have access, see the photos.
Trying to finish programing the 3GX tonight to allow flight in the morning but I don't know if I will make it.

Viking
SUPER SWEET DUDE! That is looking tight. How about that FRP canopy huh? Leagues above the vac molded canopies by Walkera, right? Sure they cost more and can crack too. But at least 90% of the time when FRP cracks, it's only in the paint. They don't shatter


Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalGolem View Post
Now, now everyone - let's keep this thread on topic. There's still some love out there for the V200D03.
Huh? You mean they still make those? (only half way joking)
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by TucsonFlyer View Post
Looking good there!

If it'll help you out I've attatched my base setup file, for the 3GX v 3.0 firmware. It's essentially the same as my 2.1 settings so they should work fine on 2.1 too. This will give you a nice fairly mild setup that's roughly equivilent to my V200 in terms of cyclic response. I have flown this on 12* and 13* of collective and it works well for both! Make sure you check your precomp and tail gyro settings since your 3gx is inverted from mine. Whether you use it or not I cannot stress how highly I recommend not using the default roll rates, they start at 50 I think and really need to be at 15 or 20 for the 250.

Thanks!!
Just from observing roll rates on the bench the 3GX at stock settings looked insane. Definitely something you wouldn't want to fly after a couple cups of coffee. I will watch correct tail setup with my install.

Viking
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by OrbitalGolem View Post
Now, now everyone - let's keep this thread on topic. There's still some love out there for the V200D03.
Sorry to drift and I still appreciate the V200!
Especially after building the 250DFC. It's funny how two helicopters, nearly the same size can be so different in space available for electronic gear. If my impressions of the 3GX are "man I gota get another one of these", I will most certainly drop one into the V200. And I do mean drop, with all the extra space in the belly of the V200 it would be so simple when compared to the 250.
Is ther a forum on RC Groups that is dedicated to the 250? I looked but didn't see one, dosen't mean I didn't miss it.
Been to HF but didn't like their setup to use the site.

Viking
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
Sorry to drift and I still appreciate the V200!
Especially after building the 250DFC. It's funny how two helicopters, nearly the same size can be so different in space available for electronic gear. If my impressions of the 3GX are "man I gota get another one of these", I will most certainly drop one into the V200. And I do mean drop, with all the extra space in the belly of the V200 it would be so simple when compared to the 250.
Is ther a forum on RC Groups that is dedicated to the 250? I looked but didn't see one, dosen't mean I didn't miss it.
Been to HF but didn't like their setup to use the site.

Viking
The verifications when posting and things like that at HF go away after a while. Moderators can adjust it back though, so watch out. You just have to keep posting. But be expecting TOTAL Walkera hate over there. Make a mention how the V200 is similar and you might get some contempt from others. Just saying. You might get some retort when mentioning similarities to a Walkera.

The RCG search is HORRIBLE. It uses dates in the algorithm so the most recent postings show up fist. To find things that have not been posted in a month or even a few weeks you have to look back a few pages. One thing you will notice VERY quickly is the only active threads are Walkera threads or RTF heli threads, because they are consistently problematic and new people are CONSTANTLY running into the same problems that never get fixed. So you will see how a new "good" heli is released. Some info posted and most people just go read that info, build their heli and have NO PROBLEMS after that. So the threads end up going cold with few posts between. Hell how many questions, honestly, did you have to ask about setting up your 250? The most questions will end up being in programming the devices.


On another note, Wow hobbies still doesn't have main gears and they are STILL outragous on shipping. I've found a few alternative Walkera sources recommended to me in the V120 thread. Although i just went to order a new 6S pack from hobbyking and the shipping price there went up there as well. Last 3 i ordered shipping was $10.58 for priority mail. It's now $16.87 for "small parcel" whatever ambiguous thing that freaking means. 10 day shipping probably.


helircstore.com and walkerahelicoptersupply.com

I have not used them, but helircstore.com came highly recommended. walkerahelicoptersupply.com claims to be a BBB member.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 04:34 PM
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Flying's Up's and Down's

V200 up and perfect.
V250 down with issues. Spools up smoothly but has a bad pitch roll yaw occillation right at the lift off point and is not flyable yet. It's like I just throw the cyclic stick in a circle right at takeoff. (No Integrity, I have the gyro's responding correctly.)
I know it's me, just have to figure it out. It's super quiet at flight RPM though.

Viking
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