Hi Jan, (Big OOOOOPS, Sorry)

Don't feel too bad about that part of the conning tower lining. I had a similar problem and had to compromise as to how to install the part. The pics show the problem and the best I can do.

I also included a picture of the railing that had to be fabricated. Not quite the way Engel shows it but similar to other Type VIIC subs that had this railing.

I still need to do some cosmetic work on some of the other gaps and flaws.

Cheers,

Iran

Does anyone make a photo etched deck for this kit?

Hi Jan, (Big OOOOOPS, Sorry)

No problem

Originally Posted by Skipjack585

Does anyone make a photo etched deck for this kit?

As far I know, nobody.

Jan,

Andrea Miniatures made a 1/32 VIIC at one time and then just produced the conning tower and 88 deck gun as separate dioramas. It is possible that Engel purchased the rights to the conning tower because Andrea' and Engels' appear to be identical in every respect. As far as the deck gun goes, I think it is still available but not sure. The 1/32 sub is not. There may also be some 1/32 crew members available.

IR3

Hi Jan, I am having a senior moment here. Writing faster than I can think. Andrea still has the 88 listed in their catalog but it may no longer be available.

Iran

Originally Posted by ir3

Andrea Miniatures made a 1/32 VIIC at one time and then just produced the conning tower and 88 deck gun as separate dioramas. It is possible that Engel purchased the rights to the conning tower because Andrea' and Engels' appear to be identical in every respect. As far as the deck gun goes, I think it is still available but not sure. The 1/32 sub is not. There may also be some 1/32 crew members available.

IR3

Hi Jan, I am having a senior moment here. Writing faster than I can think. Andrea still has the 88 listed in their catalog but it may no longer be available.

Iran

Hi Iran,

The crew looks great however I can't find the Gun

Jan,

Here my temporary workbench at that time, our kitchen table.



Because this job can be done inside my house and I'm able to join the family as well.

First I put the BB side and fit it into the tower with CA and 1 hour epoxy.



I put in the brass tube to support the round Radar into the brass deck, the manual said that you must solder the tube on deck but I drilled the 3 mm hole up to 4 mm and pushes the brass tube in that same hole and it was a tight fit so no need for soldering it.



Than I put in the flexible part and it working great, than I build up the edges of the conning tower with 1 hour epoxy mixed with micro balloons to make the gapes closed between the parts and the outside of the conning tower,



After the glue is cured I will sand it and make it smooth and tight.

The area by the antenna hole needs a lot of build up glue to make this work



And this the last progress so far, the glue must cure now and then I will go further with the conning tower.


Did also some work on the handhold's at the side of the conning tower,



Sanded the edges of the tower,



The other side of the tower, with hand holds,



And a view how she is now,



Then the last hand holds and footsteps, then the build op of the periscope & compass standards and they are really detailed. but a lot of tiny pinpoint work.
And the spray deflector also a piece of art but hard to glue it against the conning tower.

So I did some work on the periscope standards and its a pain on the ass.

you must solder pieces from 4mm long in a angle against a bend U-form to make the periscope compass standard and I mesh it up.

Here you have the items to begin with.



The one on the right is bugging me.

First I pushed in 6 pieces 6mm long tread 1mm into the socket they will support the ring where the lookouts can stand on.

I uses crocodile clamps to holds the bend tread (1mm) against 3 tread. I pushed them in and soldered the ring on the 6 points.

So far so good.





You can also see the 3 pieces pushed in at the top of the standard.

Its the idea that at that three points you solder a U bend tread at the open end.
You solder a tread from side to side where the resin holders for the compass (no hatch) must be glued.

This is how it look likes now but I'm far from happy with it %%$***#%#$#



So I start over with it. But for now I will put it aside for a wile.

Will be back,

Jan,

Looks Great Jan!

Marc

Hi Jan,

Beautiful work on the conning tower. The technique for assembling the lookout ring is excellent. I will be doing the same.

I am making a mess of the flood holes and spacing between the deck planks. What files and drills or burrs did you use to do the cutting. The only item I can get is a 1mm spiral drill that is coated with abrasive. It does a terrible job. Lucky for me I will not be taking my boat to any judging competitions.

Cheers,

Iran

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the compliments.

Iran I use the files and drills Engel sells,

See my photo,



I use also a nail file from my Wife (don't tell her I have it)

But they are not cheap but performs very well.

Jan,

Hi Jan,

I did as much as I am going to do on the conning tower and got back to the wiring. A problem that always existed in my Tech Rack is the two brass rods used to help stabilize the assemble just interfered with the TMAX V.2 installation. In fact I did not use screws to hold it since the rods held it in place.

However, with the TMAX location in my Tech Rack, the connectors to the piston tank potentiometers (poti on the Engel diagram) stick out far enough that there will be interference with the WTC tube. I am going to cut out the area where the TMAX mounts and lower it by 4 - 5 mm which will give me enough clearance for the servo connectors. I hope you do not have the same problem. I am enclosing a picture to show the area I will be removing which is marked in pencil. Yes, lots of headaches.

Cheers,

Iran

Hi Iran,

I'm not that far that I have test fitted the tech-rek so I do not know yet if I have the same problem, but can you lower the base plate ? because the engines are right under this plate located.

Then is it not possible to bend the connectors on the PCB (T-Max) or just not using them at all and solder the wires directly on the PCB, that's what I will do.

I shall take a look if I have the same problem,

Jan,

Back to the build

I decided at that time to do something else before I really take a hammer and smash the hole coning tower ..

So I went on with the rudder in the aft.

First I drilled two 5mm holes to get the rudder supports in.

Well that was not going that good, the gel-coat what is very hard shatter of the hull making some bad work.



The second hole was much better because I drilled that one totally by hand (I took the drill in my hands)

Then I take the brass tubes and slide a O-Ring on them to hold them at the right hight and to keep the glue from running over the rudders.




Then you need to aligned the rudder brace who holds the both rudders at the right hight and wideness I taped here for the gluing.



Here you see the inside of the aft Hull just before gluing the tubes.



With the gluing I also filled the destroyed rudder casing with the same 24Hour epoxy with micro balloons to restore the rudder casing.



And it turns out just fine.



And after some grinding and sanding.



I'm happy again..

Main while I soldered the rudder brace against the Rudder and shaft support frame,



Nice but not very clever...

How do you dismantle the rudders can you tell me well I can tell, NOT possible.

So I drilled a 1,5mm hole in the rudder support and drilled two 2mm holes into the rudder brace,



And one at the keel where the brace are attached also.



And so its done proper.



The rudder tubes inside the aft are now also secured in place,



That's for now,

Greetings from Holland,

Best regards,

Jan,

Hi Jan,

Yes, I shattered one of the rudder posts and both the bow plane posts.

Oh well, just keep going and we will finish these boats and enjoy the results.

Cheers,

Iran

Hi Jan,

I bit the bullet and made the cutout to lower the TMAX V2. Not the best work but functional.

Cheers,

Iran

It's best to use a drill bit smaller for a pilot hole before the called for size is used. This helps not to crack the fiberglass.