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Old May 23, 2012, 12:41 PM
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United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined Jan 2007
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Replacment motor and brick

I replaced motor with champ setup and well as brick from Champ.
I started with new air frame and built from scratch.
Wondering if anyone has determined best CG?
As for heaver motor I moved brick back in fuse and kept it in lower half, used champ push rods. Changed horns to opposite sides to accmodate brick servo location.
Wish some adise on CG before launching!
Tim
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Old May 23, 2012, 01:41 PM
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Joe 1320's Avatar
United States, FL, Sebring
Joined Feb 2006
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As carfully as I could, I cut the front cowl off. Still couldn't get it off totally intact. They simply used too much glue along the top. maybe a good thing, those servo wires are pretty close to the glue line. A piece about the size of a fingernail tore off the cowl and stayed glued to the bulkhead. Good thing I ordered a new cowl at the same time I ordered replacement motors and gearboxes. I'm going to recommend to everyone, if you have to take yours apart, do yourself a favor and order a new cowl along with your motor.

After replacing the motor and gearbox as a whole plus adding a new prop, I put the dummy radial back on and then the new cowl. Test flight showed much more power, but due to winds picking up my flight was too short to check the flight times.
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Old May 23, 2012, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe 1320 View Post
As carfully as I could, I cut the front cowl off. Still couldn't get it off totally intact. They simply used too much glue along the top. maybe a good thing, those servo wires are pretty close to the glue line. A piece about the size of a fingernail tore off the cowl and stayed glued to the bulkhead. Good thing I ordered a new cowl at the same time I ordered replacement motors and gearboxes. I'm going to recommend to everyone, if you have to take yours apart, do yourself a favor and order a new cowl along with your motor.

After replacing the motor and gearbox as a whole plus adding a new prop, I put the dummy radial back on and then the new cowl. Test flight showed much more power, but due to winds picking up my flight was too short to check the flight times.
I ended up replacing whole air frame due to excessive glue every where!
Butchered up to point it was just easier to replace it all!
Tim
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Old May 23, 2012, 02:59 PM
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For me, the hardest part was getting a decent grip on the fuse to where I wasn't crushing something, bending something, etc. It's a bit clumsy to get around.
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Old May 23, 2012, 05:18 PM
-=BS=-
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Jul 2009
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Well I just picked up my replacement motor
Good news: FZ offers a replacement motor
BAD news: it comes WITHOUT a connector!

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It'll be a pain soldering those tiny wires!
seriously?!
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Old May 23, 2012, 06:47 PM
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United States, FL, Sebring
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Originally Posted by BlazingStar View Post
Well I just picked up my replacement motor
Good news: FZ offers a replacement motor
BAD news: it comes WITHOUT a connector!

Attachment 4885174

It'll be a pain soldering those tiny wires!
seriously?!
It's not bad. Cut off the connector from the old motor, leaving about an inch of wire. tin the leads first, then solder together with a final piece of shrik wrap to cover it. The secret is a pencil tip, low watt soldering iron. Those can make your soldering look like a pro.
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Old May 24, 2012, 12:10 AM
-=BS=-
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Jul 2009
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Well sure!
I got it done.
but it maybe outside most people's comfort zone.
The replacement motor should.come with connectors already on. Just like the PZ ones.... I would have gladly paid another buck!

Anyway..operational again. I missed my little dr1
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Old May 24, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Checking CG

What is best balance point IE distsnce back from leading edge on top or bottom wing. Just changed motor and brick and would like to get it right before tossing in air.
Tim
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Old May 24, 2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BlazingStar View Post
The replacement motor should.come with connectors already on. Just like the PZ ones.... I would have gladly paid another buck!
my vote as well.
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 08:57 AM
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After another dozen flights, this new motor seems to be toast. I've never had this kind of motor problem in any micro before.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 01:47 AM
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Joined May 2007
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Greeting all.

Has anyone been successful in strengthening the landing gear? I haven't flown much as I get about 2-3 landings before some glue joint fails. I'm thinking more flexible struts, like Lexan, would allow the gear to move rather than shatter the CA. Or go the opposite and make some strong gear using balsa. If there is a thread/post detailing this, please, post the link.

Thanks in advance,

Mike J.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 07:15 AM
Gravity is a harsh mistress.
Tim Wolff's Avatar
United States, MI, Temperance
Joined Sep 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K4RT80Y View Post
Greeting all.

Has anyone been successful in strengthening the landing gear? I haven't flown much as I get about 2-3 landings before some glue joint fails. I'm thinking more flexible struts, like Lexan, would allow the gear to move rather than shatter the CA. Or go the opposite and make some strong gear using balsa. If there is a thread/post detailing this, please, post the link.

Thanks in advance,

Mike J.
You are correct in your observation that CA is too brittle for this application. I assembled mine from parts and used Canopy glue throughout. I'd give it a try on yours, but it won't work miracles. You need a good smooth surface and the ability to actually land on it.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 07:27 AM
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Take a close look at a full scale soloution

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Old Jul 24, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Cross brace wires! A great idea, maybe some thin carbon thread.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 03:28 PM
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Cross brace wires! A great idea, maybe some thin carbon thread.
Take a hot needle, poke some small holes in the plastic for the thread to pass though. Even regular cotton thread works, carbon of course would be the most durable. It solves the wiggling problem, and if you glue some small ply anchors to the bottom of the lower wing, takes some of the load off the plastic glue joints. You will be surprised how well this works.
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