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Old Jan 10, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Hyperion GS2213-16

I have burnt out the windings on this motor and wanted to try rewinding it myself. By removing the circlip on the shaft it is easy enough to remove the shaft and outer bell. The armature appears to be very firmly attached to the tapered aluminum housing that is the motor mount. Does anyone know how to get the armature off this tapered aluminum housing?
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 06:49 PM
Dude, I do fly all day long!
rcalldaylong's Avatar
San Jose, California
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skysailer View Post
I have burnt out the windings on this motor and wanted to try rewinding it myself. By removing the circlip on the shaft it is easy enough to remove the shaft and outer bell. The armature appears to be very firmly attached to the tapered aluminum housing that is the motor mount. Does anyone know how to get the armature off this tapered aluminum housing?
a picture is worth a thousand words.

anyways, check to see if there is any set screw holding the housing to the shaft. If none, then shaft probably just has some nicks and scratches that is preventing the housing from coming out.

anyhow, put up a couple pictures...would be helpful
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 07:16 PM
hass-alfed and bass-ackwards
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United States, AZ, Chandler
Joined Jun 2008
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I'm interested to hear the answer. I got right to where you are and stuffed it into a bag of broken motors.

It'd be nice to put this motor into service again.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 07:42 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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The Hyperion motors are not one of the more common motors here as far as details and rewinds on them. This thread shows some photos of a Z2205-46 motor and may offer some clues:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=678134

If you look at the center photo there is shows a close up of the base plate end of the bearing tube. Looking at that I would guess that the bearing tube and back plate are a one piece assembly with a bearing pressed into a recess.

But there are some motors that have the bearing tube as a separate piece that screws into the base plate.

On motors that don't a scewed in tube or that have a Circlip on the other end of the bearing tube to retain the stator from sliding off of the tube, the most often encountered method of attaching the stator to the bearing tube is to use an epoxy adhesive or Loctite and slide the stator on. Sometimes those will also have pin visible that keeps the stator from being rotated on the tube. Those can usually be loosened by directing heat through the bearing tube to soften the adhesive and then the stator will slide off of the tube.

I do it by attaching the motor to an "X" mount, clamping two of the tips of the mount in a vise, and using a butane micro torch to heat the inside of the tube. I use a gloved hand to try to turn the stator and slide it off as soon as the will move.

Other like to lay the motor on a stove burner but I have learned the hard way that if you remove or damage the (normally green) coating on the stator in the process of getting it off of the bearing tube it turns a rewind into a much more complicated task.

And if you get the magnet housing off and find the windings are epoxy saturated, you have another thing that stymied many winding attempts. I have had fair luck using that same micro torch's pin point flame to heat the bundle of strands intermittently at the point of attachment and get a motor unwound without ruining the stator coating.

But epoxy saturated winding can often put you back into that mode where the stator coating is destroyed and removed and you have to start with a bare stator. You *will* get a lot of shorted windings (4 short per turn in many cases) if you rewind a bare stator so you have to reinsulate the stator...

Other than that, I can't help but wonder if the lack of info on Hyperion rewind projects is because of the quality of the motors or the difficulty of the task.

I look forward to some photos and you enlightening us as to how rewindable Hyperion motors really are.

Good luck with it!

Jack
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 07:53 PM
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Here is a picture of the motor. There are no set screws visible
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 08:05 PM
Dude, I do fly all day long!
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San Jose, California
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Originally Posted by Skysailer View Post
Here is a picture of the motor. There are no set screws visible
oh yea...this is where the fun begins.

This is where you get the stator off the backplate. Some use a heat gun, some use a soldering iron. I use a hot stove. Anyways, the idea is to soften the epoxy that they used to epoxy the stator on to the backplate.

but be careful not to heat it too much, or the stator coating will burn off. Make sure you remove the bearings first before you heat up the stator too much. Too much heat will kill the bearings.

Disassemble a brusless motor (3 min 21 sec)


Bearing removal from a brushless motor without damaging motor (1 min 40 sec)


winding removal, prepping for new wind (2 min 14 sec)
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:04 PM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1742856
This might help if the factory glue is excessive. On budget motors the amount of what ever they use to anchor the stator to the bearing housing is inconsistent some pop loose with a sneeze others take six mules and a vice and some never brake loose and with enough heat and pressure the bearing tube breaks from the base. Although the few top shelf motors I've dissembled the the stator removal job has been reasonably easy with enough heat. I gather most people don't have to much problem with stator removal. I seem to get a lot of severely stuck ones. Maybe it's the humidity.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:08 PM
Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skysailer View Post
Here is a picture of the motor. There are no set screws visible
And does it look like the bearing tube is or might be a separate piece from the base plate (the non rotating part or tapered nose section)? Like it was screwed into it: If not, that appears to be all one piece. I call it a base plate/bearing tube but can be either in front of or behind the magnet housing.

If it is all one piece I would start with the bearings out and directing the heat inside the tube. That is the least likely to damage the stator coating and also gets the heat to where the adhesive is most quickly. There is only the thickness of the bearing tube wall that has to be heated.

The method rcallday describes will work too but it is a little harder on the coating stator coating.

But I have found motors that I could not get the stator to come away from the tube. I use a flat screw driver as a lever under the stator on one of those and ended up bending one of the stator arms up. That one ended up in the trash, I just couldn't stand to be reminded of my failure every time I saw it...

So guys manage to rewind motors without removing the stator from the tube but I have not tried it yet. It looks like that might be possible on that one.

How do the windings look? It is with a bundle of multiple fine strands or one large strand? And is it coated with epoxy?

Jack
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 10:23 AM
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Usually one bolts the motor to a solid object ; wood block, table top.. whatever, then inserts a soldering iron/pencil in the centre hole of the motor's bearing tube.
After popping out the bearings :-)
Leave the iron on/in for at least a half hour, in which case Any glue used will have softened. Then using oven mitts twist the stator off the bearing tube. Trying not to do damage, if possible.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 11:23 AM
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jackerbes - the base plate/bearing tube appears to be one piece. The windings are fine wire that does not appear to be coated with epoxy. I'm going to heat that section with a heat gun to first get the bearings out and then seperate the bearing tube and armature
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Well I got the bearings out easy with a heat gun. Then I used a 60W soldering iron inside the bearing tube for about 8 minutes and then twisted the armature off.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:26 PM
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It seems the high end motors have better control over the amount of glue they use to secure the stator.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:39 PM
Dude, I do fly all day long!
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San Jose, California
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Originally Posted by Skysailer View Post
Well I got the bearings out easy with a heat gun. Then I used a 60W soldering iron inside the bearing tube for about 8 minutes and then twisted the armature off.
Awesome! first one I did, I burned off the entire stator to a crisp!
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:43 PM
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So here are some pictures of the separated pieces.
The bell has 14 magnets and the armature has 12 poles. When I look at the back where the wiring leads go into the armature it does not look like a Y winding. Any ideas on the winding pattern or do I just start unwinding and figure it out from there?
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 01:31 PM
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I have unwound the black lead and there ar 10 copper strands of 0.2mm thick (32 AWG)
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