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Old Aug 27, 2010, 05:25 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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USA, TX, Euless
Joined Aug 2003
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Man you guys are tough.
Anyway that's why I only sell power supplies with regular PC power cords.
Price is important.
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Old Aug 27, 2010, 05:56 PM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
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Here's a picture of what it looks like on my 2x12V supply if that helps. Make sure you insulate the connections properly - this is mains voltage. I used two layers of heat shrink.

John
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FWIW I have taken a standard plug, cut off the end and soldered the wires to the 'sideways' contacts. Use heat shrink to insulate them of course.
The cords are about $30 min as stated above.
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Old Aug 27, 2010, 06:53 PM
Registered User
North Alabama
Joined Feb 2005
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A question

Why would you need 24V ??
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Old Aug 27, 2010, 07:18 PM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
Joined Oct 2004
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To get full output from many of the newer chargers such as the FMA POWERLAB 8, iCharger 3010B and several of the Hyperions and there are others.
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 10:18 AM
Registered User
North Alabama
Joined Feb 2005
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OK , now about the push button you have on yours, is this momentary ? and or do you just leave the 3 pins connected all the time and just unplug the supply ??

Thanks
Dwight
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 10:28 AM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
Joined Oct 2004
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My server power supplies have no switches on them,push button or otherwise. I plug them into 120AC and they come on.

I do have one personal pc power supply with a NC push button because sometimes it shuts down when a charger is connected and it is simplier to use such a switch to restart it.

Charles
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Old Sep 01, 2010, 09:51 AM
Registered User
North Alabama
Joined Feb 2005
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I got mine up and going last night, started to look for a heavy load and came up short......so I used 4 old automobile head lights.....the single power supply didn't even groan. I do think however it may have caused a low pressure front that may cause weather problems here in the south due to the "Black Hole" inside they call a fan

Kinda cool it runs for a second or two after you unplug it

Thanks for everyone's help

Dwight
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Old Sep 01, 2010, 06:37 PM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
6,424 Posts
Dwight, glad it worked for you.

12V household halogen globes make a good load for a single charger if you want to see how far it will go. The ones I use are all enclosed in a little reflector and cover glass and are pretty cheap at the local discount light shop in boxes of six. 50W a globe. Just wire them up in parallel, but you need to add bullets to one side so you can plug them in one by one and build up the load to maximum. These PS won't start on a cold full high wattage light globe load because the cold resistance is too low. Got mine up to 1100 Watts. Combined blazing searchlight and howling fans.

John
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I got mine up and going last night, started to look for a heavy load and came up short......so I used 4 old automobile head lights.....the single power supply didn't even groan. I do think however it may have caused a low pressure front that may cause weather problems here in the south due to the "Black Hole" inside they call a fan

Kinda cool it runs for a second or two after you unplug it

Thanks for everyone's help

Dwight
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Old Sep 01, 2010, 08:27 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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USA, TX, Euless
Joined Aug 2003
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Sounds fun, jj. I have learned the hard way that I need to test every power supply I sell before it goes out the door. I have been using an old headlight bulb but it is bright, hot and distracting. So I am now using an electric car heater that is designed to be plugged into the power outlet formerly known as a cigarette lighter. It draws about 7 or 8A and with a Voltmeter I can tell if the supply is normal or not. The 42A ones actually increase their Voltage a little with load. Probably improves regulation at the motherboard.
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Old Sep 01, 2010, 08:44 PM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
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I've had all the bits for a while for a proper nichrome load that will actually be cheap and simple and has the advantage of producing heat without light but... so many projects so little time.
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Originally Posted by feathermerchant View Post
Sounds fun, jj. I have learned the hard way that I need to test every power supply I sell before it goes out the door. I have been using an old headlight bulb but it is bright, hot and distracting. So I am now using an electric car heater that is designed to be plugged into the power outlet formerly known as a cigarette lighter. It draws about 7 or 8A and with a Voltmeter I can tell if the supply is normal or not. The 42A ones actually increase their Voltage a little with load. Probably improves regulation at the motherboard.
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Old Sep 01, 2010, 08:47 PM
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North Alabama
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Wow that is a great way to do it Feather, reminds me of Electronics in the early 70's and all those pass transistors on linear supply's (fabricating , and testing)........who would have thought something as small as a cigar box could do 70 amps...... truly Rocket Science.

I have not used my electronics skills in over 25 years......this is fun again
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Old Sep 09, 2010, 11:25 PM
BrianG
Edonton, AB
Joined Jun 2009
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My CellPro PowerLab 8 just arrived, and I hooked it up to my newly acquired an adapted 1300W HP PROLIANT DL580. It's sure nice to see 12A come up on the charge-rate readout for my 6s 5800 mAh battery packs. This showed 3000mAh in at 30 min charge time.

Next, parallel charging these sweethearts!!!

I have got my 1300W HP PROLIANT DL580 up and running and I have coupled the two pairs of output blades on each side of the logic board, so that I have one EC5 plug on each side (much like jj's pictures show). I am thinking that this will allow me to feed both my CellPro PowerLab 8 for the larger fuel LiPo's and my TP601C for the smaller Rx LiPo batteries at the same time.

I still have questions with regard to the CellPro PowerLab8 setup information. It requests power source data in terms of lower voltage limit and upper current limit.

1. The manual suggests using 1/2 of the operating voltage (12v) for the lower voltage limit from a DC power supply. This would mean setting 6v for the DL580. Does this make sense for the DL580? (the PowerLab8 default setting is 10v)

2. The manual requests an upper current limit for charging. I am not sure what would be appropriate for the 1300W DL580, pulling from only one side (2 pairs) of the output contacts. (the PowerLab8 default setting is 25A)

Can anyone advise?
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Old Sep 10, 2010, 03:45 PM
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Wellington, NZ
Joined Aug 2006
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Good one, Brian and Dwight. It is fun getting these beautiful pieces of engineering serving another useful purpose and saving them from the knacker's yard.

I have been trying to find a good test load so your ideas, John and Feather, are useful. Don't know about finding a car heater, though. Never heard of them here.

Lindsay.
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Old Sep 10, 2010, 03:53 PM
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North Alabama
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Thread hijack warning, did you see the guy on TV who claimed to be Electricity prof....running 220 volts through him to heat up a hot plate......wrapped copper wire around his waist and put his body in series with the current.... couldn't see while this was going on as his eyes were "glazed over" as he said.......nut job if you ask me
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Old Sep 10, 2010, 03:59 PM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
1. The manual suggests using 1/2 of the operating voltage (12v) for the lower voltage limit from a DC power supply. This would mean setting 6v for the DL580. Does this make sense for the DL580? (the PowerLab8 default setting is 10v)
The min. Voltage setting is just to protect your power supply. My {L8 staty set at 10V and 50 amps. for DC ps and 10.5V and 60amps. for Pb.
I use server power supplies from 12V 30A to 24V /55A but just set the max. charge rate accordingly.



Quote:
2. The manual requests an upper current limit for charging. I am not sure what would be appropriate for the 1300W DL580, pulling from only one side (2 pairs) of the output contacts. (the PowerLab8 default setting is 25A)
Well the max the PL8 can draw is 50amps. which should be a walk in the parkk for this supply so why not set it at that?

Charles
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