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Old Dec 10, 2012, 03:53 PM
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alright, u guys wouldnt believe this. I woke up just then n went straight to fix my heli n went on changing the blades, using the ones that I've tried last night that caused the bad vibration. the vibration just stopped as I spooled up! same blades no further balancing or tracking!!!!! now it makes me wonder what was going on.....
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
alright, u guys wouldnt believe this. I woke up just then n went straight to fix my heli n went on changing the blades, using the ones that I've tried last night that caused the bad vibration. the vibration just stopped as I spooled up! same blades no further balancing or tracking!!!!! now it makes me wonder what was going on.....
How tight are your blade grips? it could have just been uneven in the grips or something. My Gaui X5 wobbles around with the weight of the blades until the head speed gets up. Then the blades straighten out and the wobble goes away. It's no where near as bad as yours was. But if your blade grips were sticking or something? That is the only thing i can think of, unless it was your gyro going nuts. Check for anything loose with "play" in it.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 06:13 PM
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i have the blades not really tight but at the same time not loose at all....like it won't slip up or down when u bring it around....just tiny bit to hold them in place. i found out the problem was the different serial numbers on the align blades that caused it.....what happened last night was i took out a bag of align blades, 4 pairs in them....n mixed use them (all same blades though, but i have 2 pairs of B grade blades in there)......this morning i just so happened to take the 2 that have the same serial number and they worked just fine.... so tonight when i get home i will put on 2 different serial number ones to try again....see if that's the cause....

* another thing, just to let u guys know if u want to buy align stuffs, pm me as i can get deals that is alot cheaper than any websites...25% off the rrp from align site...ie. the 325mm 3gx blades is only $14.25 (vs $18.99) but of coz u will have to pay for shipping from china too....and they do have align kits too.....one of the best suppliers that i've dealt with....
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
i have the blades not really tight but at the same time not loose at all....like it won't slip up or down when u bring it around....just tiny bit to hold them in place. i found out the problem was the different serial numbers on the align blades that caused it.....what happened last night was i took out a bag of align blades, 4 pairs in them....n mixed use them (all same blades though, but i have 2 pairs of B grade blades in there)......this morning i just so happened to take the 2 that have the same serial number and they worked just fine.... so tonight when i get home i will put on 2 different serial number ones to try again....see if that's the cause....

* another thing, just to let u guys know if u want to buy align stuffs, pm me as i can get deals that is alot cheaper than any websites...25% off the rrp from align site...ie. the 325mm 3gx blades is only $14.25 (vs $18.99) but of coz u will have to pay for shipping from china too....and they do have align kits too.....one of the best suppliers that i've dealt with....
That is the cause, for sure. Not every blade ends up being the same weight. You could have two identical sets and they might vary a small amount. I have a handful of 450 blades that don't match up in weights and all have the same exact number/letter.
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 02:58 AM
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I only bought the HeliPal blades so they would give me the gear switch they owe me. I know they are over priced, but I needed that switch.

Sprint gave me the Airave for free. It boosts your signal, but it is hooked to your cable modem first, (it acts like a router, & it won't work if it isn't the first) then you patch cord to your router, then your device. It limits your speed too, but if your Sprint signal sucks, it is worth the trade-off of a slower Internet. I was at 1-2 bars signal before, now it is maxed out.


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I have been using the Pro 3D blades. My next order will be at hobby king for them. They are only like $7 or something a set. They work fine for how much i crash. Even though i have aligns on there now.

Did sprint provide the amp or did you have to buy the device? It's just a repeater right?
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Hi,

how are your flight times with your v450d01? I just flyied today some slow circles and eights at about -2degrees Fahrenheit and hab a total flight time of 11.30minutes.
I am using 2200mah 45c turnigy batteries and low headspeed of about 2200-2400rpm and had a little reserve of a couple of second to land safely :-)

Is it possible to fly over 15minutes with a 3000mah batterie? Anyone tried this?
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by addifromgermany View Post
Hi,

how are your flight times with your v450d01? I just flyied today some slow circles and eights at about -2degrees Fahrenheit and hab a total flight time of 11.30minutes.
I am using 2200mah 45c turnigy batteries and low headspeed of about 2200-2400rpm and had a little reserve of a couple of second to land safely :-)

Is it possible to fly over 15minutes with a 3000mah batterie? Anyone tried this?
3000mah battery is going to be a very tight fit under the canopy. But the higher you go in mAh, the longer you can expect flights to be. I have never had longer than a 5-6 minute flight on the V450D01. But i fly pretty aggressively and at idle up, minimum of 90% throttle @ 3100rpm. I live in a warm climate where it's 70-80 (F) during the day, even this time of year. Today is one of the coldest days of the year at around 58-60. For you, the cold weather is effecting the chemical reactions in your batteries too. In the cold, the electrons are not able to flow as quickly or as abundantly through your battery and into your ESC. The cold slows them and the chemical process in the battery down. You can expect shorter flights in higher temperatures, i would think. Since your probably not flying very aggressively or pitch pumping to cause strain on the motor, plus you are running a super low head speed. The batteries are probably capable of keeping up with your flights and produce nice long flights because of the combo of things you have going on in your setup. Just keep in mind that you need to attempt to keep your battery above 50(F) for them to function properly. Once installed on the heli, hopefully the motor running will keep them warm enough. But it's something you should keep in mind. Trying to over discharge a cold pack could damage the pack possibly or make it puff or something. It's probably not great for the life and service life of the battery. You should also not charge your packs when they are super cold or hot either. Charging them in the wrong chemical state can also be degrading. Your setup is not discharging as rapidly as, say my setup does, for instance. But, keeping the packs a little warm before using them should keep them functioning properly.

Just my opinion, but for your low RPM setup you probably only need 20-30C packs. Unless the higher C packs work better in the cold or something. Otherwise i would save some money in that aspect. Higher C packs are often bigger and heavier too. For 3D on my 3200 rpm setup @ 100% throttle, i still only use 20C packs. I have a 40C pack that does give slightly higher head speed though out the whole flight. It does perform better, mostly when it was new. But it's not worth the nearly double the cost, IMO. So i stick with the cheap 20-30C turnigy packs for and maybe add some low ESR capacitors to the battery line. My packs don't run incredibly hot or puff after a flight unless my ESC's capacitors are broken off (this happens to me often. Vibration breaks the cap's pins and they fall off). I know when i take a pack off my heli after a flight. If it's overly hot or slightly puffy. Chances are my capacitors have broken contacts again or something else is wrong.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 11:11 AM
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@IntegrityHndywrk:
The reason i flew today was to try out my new tx gloves, so i only went behind the house and there ist not realy much space. So i choosed the slow rpm flight mode.
Normaly i fly with much more headspead and also a little bit more agressive :-)

The problem so far was, that the fingers became to cold to fly securly my copters, but with the new tx gloves its much better
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 01:00 PM
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Hey guys, I know that you don't like the RX2702. But is the RX802 even the same animal? I mean have they corrected those inherent problems? Does anyone have experience with this receiver? Because I think I might use it on my build... No one seems to have much of a preference with receivers, and I'm too new to distnguish between them...

Thanks.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 01:14 PM
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I think one of the best rx is the 2703, much more relieable and stabler in flight.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by addifromgermany View Post
I think one of the best rx is the 2703, much more relieable and stabler in flight.
I'm using a Microbeast with it, so stability shouldn't be the issue. I'm more concerned with dependability, loss of signal, etc.....
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 01:23 PM
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I'm using a Microbeast with it, so stability shouldn't be the issue. I'm more concerned with dependability, loss of signal, etc.....
Ok, my mistake :-)
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rain4LA View Post
Hey guys, I know that you don't like the RX2702. But is the RX802 even the same animal? I mean have they corrected those inherent problems? Does anyone have experience with this receiver? Because I think I might use it on my build... No one seems to have much of a preference with receivers, and I'm too new to distnguish between them...

Thanks.
I think the issues with the 2702V are more or less specific to the RX/Gyro combo units and/or their antennas. Otherwise it's something to do with a specific firmware version of the 2702V. In my searches online i have not found anyone with issues using the RX only unit with a separate gyro. But i also never found anyone complaining of lock outs or other issues with the 2702V until i had the issues myself.


Check out the V-clone thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...73111&page=242

These guys are doing more with Walkera RX units. Ask around, they are a helpful bunch. Some of them might know more. I'm pretty sure the RX802 is fine so is the RX701. The main difference is wiring. I don't like the RX802 with wires coming out of the top of it. Otherwise i think it's all the same. In the link above, Kdean has been using 2801-pro RX units with the microbeast and a Walkera 2801-pro TX. Seems to be working a lot better than the 2702V. He was one of the others who is known to have had 2702V lock out issues around here.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I think the issues with the 2702V are more or less specific to the RX/Gyro combo units and/or their antennas. Otherwise it's something to do with a specific firmware version of the 2702V. In my searches online i have not found anyone with issues using the RX only unit with a separate gyro. But i also never found anyone complaining of lock outs or other issues with the 2702V until i had the issues myself.


Check out the V-clone thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...73111&page=242

These guys are doing more with Walkera RX units. Ask around, they are a helpful bunch. Some of them might know more. I'm pretty sure the RX802 is fine so is the RX701. The main difference is wiring. I don't like the RX802 with wires coming out of the top of it. Otherwise i think it's all the same. In the link above, Kdean has been using 2801-pro RX units with the microbeast and a Walkera 2801-pro TX. Seems to be working a lot better than the 2702V. He was one of the others who is known to have had 2702V lock out issues around here.
Thanks IH,
Is there something specific about the wires on the Rx802 that could be a disadvantage or even irritating for me? I mean, why don't you like that particular configuration?
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Thanks IH,
Is there something specific about the wires on the Rx802 that could be a disadvantage or even irritating for me? I mean, why don't you like that particular configuration?
It just depends on how much space you have and where you will end up mount the RX. Typically you want the RX outside the heli away from the CF as much as possible. If you end up mounting the RX in some places it might be better or worse depending on which one you get.. But here is photos of the RX so you understand what i mean.


RX802




RX701



It really doesn't matter, but in most cases, if you care about having a clean wire setup where the wires are all nice and everything. You might like the RX701 more. But it really depends on where you end up installing everything i suppose. On your helicopter your going to have plenty of space to mount this stuff. The typical place would be the top RX shelf. In that case you may not want all the wires leading into the top on the RX802. Or you might. I suppose thats all up to you.

Here is a Walkera V450D01 With the 2702V which is similar to the RX701 layout:







Here is a Walkera V450D03 with the 2703H-D which is similar to the RX802 layout:






Personally, i think putting the wire plugs in a elevated position stresses the wires beyond what is necessary. Though this thin, light, individually wired connections can probably handle it fine. My experience with audio equipment and wires is the same with my 32 channel mixer. It has the stereo wire plugs on TOP not the BACK like most mixers. I replace the audio wires like mad! The funny thing is, they don't move and they don't vibrate like on a helicopter. The gravity is enough to foul the wires where they solder to the plugs that get inserted into the mixer. Just from the hard angle bend created by the wire wanting to hang down. I think the same principal applies, except vibration and movement are part of the equation now. That is just my opinion though. Either one works fine. You just have to make sure they don't rub on the sharp edges of your frame. You might even wet sand the corners of your CF frame (careful not to breath or get this stuff around in the house though, especially if you have pets) just to be careful. Some people line the edges with fuel line from the LHS. cut a slit in it and bite it on. Anyway, that is the only thing about the wires. It's how neat and nice and how YOU want them to go. There is no right way to install heli electronics. But there is sometimes a wrong way. Also keep in mind that you can't have the wires tight going into the beastX. If they are tied together too tightly or are pulled tight leading into the gyro. Vibes can be transfered to the gyro. You need to leave some slack between the RX and gyro somewhere for the wires to be loose so vibes don't travel though the tight wires. If i were getting your heli. I would probably investigate putting the Gyro on the top shelf, with the wires leading toward the front of the heli. Then put the RX on the bottom shelf that seems to protrude out under the tail boom. But something tells me a servo is going to be mounted there. So you'll have to kind of work at it on your own. The top shelf has less resonating vibration from the helicopter, typically. So thats where i prefer to mount mine If you go to the bottom shelf above the landing skids you will need to use a thicker more isolating mounting pad. The BeastX comes with them and a thinner one too. Use the thicker one on lower shelves. OR if you are going to have more vibration resonance in your mounting spot then you would like.


I think the RX802 has one extra channel. I think it's a 8 channel and the 701 is 7 channel. But you only need 6 for helicopters. 7 if you might want landing retracts on a scale model or something. Otherwise both RX is the same. I think they have a RX1202 too, that is 12 channels.
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