Mine arrive today , very well package but without instructions and there are many,,,many small parts to fit.
I love the rotor head and think HK should sell the rotor blades and rotor head as a spare part they will make a nice money , there are a lot of scratch builders and these parts are very dificult to find (buy). The head dont alow the blades to conning very well , so I think a small sand in the blade suport to produce a very small gap between the blade suport and rotor head could make all diference and solve this problem. You can sand a bevel in the upper part . I try and I think will work ,,, someone whith more expertise here ??
The servo suport looks a bit small to fit a metal gear servo.
And I sugest some more glue in firewall and rotor post.
The dummy engine is very well made could be a nice spare to be sold to.
After solve these problems If the giro flys as they say it will be a winner.

I received mine a couple of days ago. it all arrived AOK and no damage. I have been studying it some before I put it together. I have some motors on order too, so I am waiting on them to arrive.
Do you think we ought to glue some carbon fibre strips along the main mast post or not. Is it strong enough?

One thought is if it really needs more coning angle or not. I am not a autogyro expert by any means but in thinking about it, the ailerons or left and right cyclic become more effective with less dihedral or coning angle in the rotor blades. The 3D heli's have super stiff blades and rotor heads to eliminate any coning angles completely or reduce them to really small amounts. If you had a lot of coning angle (dihedral) in the rotor head and blades then you tend to need the rudder to compendate for the turns as the ailerons or left and right cyclic would be weak or ineffective. of course maybe that doesn't apply to autogyros. So I don't know.

William, Earl,

it's simple: keep coning down to a minimum.

Jochen

Extra coning will only bring on unwanted trim changes, but once trimmed will be fine if its not too great.
It adds no extra stability other than making the mass of the fuselage further away from the blades. The longer the mast the more stable it will feel but the less effective the roll control is.
The flatter the disc the less roll trim you will need to add which makes ROG far easier to do.
Well that is what I have found.

Here is a video that I made a few years back

Pusher Gyro cone testing (6 min 39 sec)

Regards Rich

I put together a tutorial on how to take off with this gyro:

First takeoff attempt RC Gyrocopter Crash (0 min 22 sec)

rattlesnake, where is the tutorial? Bummer on the crash though.

SafeLandings, Thanks for the excellent video and experiment.

I was reading in post #26 about coning in the sticky thread at the top of the autogyro category:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=614030&page=2

So technically we don't really want a lot of coning angles, very little is probably better. The more coning angle you have then the more the plane wants to roll to the left. Thus you need more right trim to compensate.

Thanks everyone.

Yes,
But due to the nature of a rotor disc there will always be some form of cone. But if you have a model of the PCA-2 or the like I just dont think it would look scale without cone and in these cases trimming would be needed.I have got my C30 kit out and had a look at the head and blades, with mine there is very little flap up but I think there is enough. The blades are very flexible to what I have used before.
As Chris has stated the blades are very thin compared to others, I think I will assemble mine on to the rotor hub and take them up to the field this afternoon. I'm interested to see what kind of lift I will get as Chris's seemed not to provide the lift he expected.

Regards Rich

Update:
I have been up to the field this afternoon and held the mast assembly along with the blades fitted into the brisk cold wind. Mine spin up quick and I have plenty of pull but I have either an out of balance rotor system or a tracking problem.

Helo every one.

This are pictures of my C30, I have already finished it. I´m waiting for next weekend to maiden it.
I´m worried about the power plant, I had about 750 gr of thrust with a 10x5 propeller I´m not sure is enought power for a TOW of 670 gr.
I try to use finally a 1000 mAh 3s, in order to save weight.

Regards

I have a an autogyro rookie question: Do you want the pushrod on the head to go up on the appropriate side for roll axis? IE right servo up, left down for for a right turn, or the opposite? I can't find a thread that mentions the correct direction of travel...

Thanks!

I was wondering as to what motor, propeller and battery pack size you are using in these autogyros? I wanted to get a feel for what you all are using.

Originally Posted by pcphill

I have a an autogyro rookie question: Do you want the pushrod on the head to go up on the appropriate side for roll axis? IE right servo up, left down for for a right turn, or the opposite? I can't find a thread that mentions the correct direction of travel...

Thanks!

When looking at the model from behind; Right roll(aileron) will cause the disc to tilt to the right when set up properly. Jut opposite of what you posted.

Good luck.

Good news or bad news .I cant work it out.
Thanks Rich for the test.Glad that your set I works.I must just be out of luck ,because the set up does not work for me. I removed the top plastic rail that holds the top bolt assembly,and replaced it with hardwood and mounted a ball raced spindle assembly [as in Spyro].I then used a set of blades[as in Minimum] and test flew this machine OK. the assembly spun OK and generated lift OK. I could not get these results with the supplied parts. I TRIED.I had a friend take some pictures of the launch but for some reason ,not one of them came out.On the first flight I damaged one rotor blade and on the second flight I damaged the rudder. The Fuz is quit strong and should take a bit of rough play.
The model climed rapidly on take off and required a reduction in power followed by a reduction in back trim. Around 4 deg back trim should be OK 6 DEG down thrust is required on the motor.I hope to fly again tomorrow and will advise on my findings.
Hobby King advise that this model fly as easy as a CUB.This is true,but only after it has been trimmed,and that may be a problem for those with out experience.good luck
Chris..........

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Boneswamped

When looking at the model from behind; Right roll(aileron) will cause the disc to tilt to the right when set up properly. Jut opposite of what you posted.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by earlwb

I was wondering as to what motor, propeller and battery pack size you are using in these autogyros? I wanted to get a feel for what you all are using.

Im using this motor: TR 28-30B 14A 1050Kv Brushless Outrunner


This Prop: 3 Blade EP Propeller 8x6 / 204x178mm


I found that I could fit my 2200mah 3slipo in before I set everything up but once the motor was installed, the shaft protruding towards the back stopped it. 1800mah 3s lipo's will JUST fit, I recommend 1600mah 3s.

Originally Posted by earlwb

rattlesnake, where is the tutorial? Bummer on the crash though.

Thanks everyone.

My vid was the tutorial, it was a joke that didnt work