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Old Jul 11, 2013, 05:34 AM
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Philippines, NCR, QC
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Originally Posted by Andy T. View Post
Thanks everyone for your input.

My NEX5R is now working in Live mode.

What I had to do is initilized the camera which resets the camera to it's default factory settings. Then I set the HDMI resolution to 1080i. It won't work in 1080p or auto mode. Live view works with either file format MP4 or AVCHD. Live view also works in any of the record settings which are 60i 24M, 60i 17M, 60p 28M, 24P 24M and 24P 17M. It also doesn't matter if the "CTRL for HDMI" is set to ON or off. I hope this helps for anyone else having problems. I think initilizing the camera was the trick.

Andy
hi andy, i have a nex5r too and my hdmi converter doesn't work. what do you mean by "initializing the camera which resets the camera to default settings"? how do you do that (new to cameras so forgive the ignorance). Also, do you give 5v power to the converted or not? some cameras i hear like the canon dslr's supply power to the converter. The 5n needs a 5v source to the converter but i'm not sure about the 5r.

best regards,
larry
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by larryf8 View Post
The 5n needs a 5v source to the converter but i'm not sure about the 5r.
Thanks for that data point. I just got my HDMI converter, and I'm planning on stripping it down to the bare essentials. I want to take the USB plug off, but I wasn't sure if I needed external power. Apparently I do. So I assume I can just try and solder power and ground wires to the pads which correlate to the +/- of where the USB socket is?

I also want to remove all three AV jacks, and just solder a video cable direct to the board. Anybody try that? I did it on a video receiver that I de-cased a while back, and it works fine.

In the interest of saving weight, trying to reduce the number of connectors.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by featherodd View Post
I believe you can power a 3.3v Pro Mini with a 1s Lipo (alt JST-XH) attached to the RAW pin, until the Lipo hits around ~3.4volts which is a nice dropout point. The 5.5v version would require a 2s Lipo (alt JST) and will likely run a bit hotter.
Interesting data point. I wonder if the 3.3V unit can actually take 3.7V direct on the Vcc. In my experience, Atmega's specs are very conservative. I think the Atmega 2560 on an Arduino Mega can actually handle up to 6V Vcc. 5.5V for sure. And it doesn't brownout until something like 2.8V. On the APM2.5, the voltage limits are actually set by all the other things on the board that don't like high and low voltage. Namely, the 32u2 which browns out at 3.3V, and the MPU6000 which has a narrow range too.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 10:05 AM
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Brazil, AL, Maceió
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
>>1) When I tilt the gimbal far backwards, the roll starts oscillating. Don't know what this has to do with the roll, it is not a tilt misconfiguration because it also happens when the tilt motor is disconnected.
2) I'm hand testing my gimbal and I can feel the motors vibrating slightly and frequently, but it is not that buzzing sound that comes from high D values. Is that expected or should the motors be completely silent? <<

Which gimbal controller and what firmware version. For the Alexmos controller all I have to do is to reduce the P value and power settings a little and the oscillation goes away. For Martinez board I had to live with it. It only happens when I tilt the multi rotor forward a LOT so the camera gimbal is tilted up to compensate. In normal use I don't think I will reach that attitude so I just let it go.

I am sure both sides will start to address that issue. At least the Martinez board doesn't oscillate when the camera points straight down now.
Hi Seismic(is Hans your name? ), it is an Alexmos board and newer firmware, 2.1. I think I can also live with that, oscillation only happens when gimbal is tilted far backward or far forward, but will try reducing P and power. But as I said, the problem is related to the roll, it starts oscilating when I tilt the gimbal.

And, how about that slight vibration that comes from the motors? it is not because of high D values, even when D and I is zero I can feel the vibration, but can hear nothing. I'm getting old and deaf, my wife and daughters can hear something.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 11:48 AM
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Athens, Greece
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Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre View Post
Thanks for that data point. I just got my HDMI converter, and I'm planning on stripping it down to the bare essentials. I want to take the USB plug off, but I wasn't sure if I needed external power. Apparently I do. So I assume I can just try and solder power and ground wires to the pads which correlate to the +/- of where the USB socket is?

I also want to remove all three AV jacks, and just solder a video cable direct to the board. Anybody try that? I did it on a video receiver that I de-cased a while back, and it works fine.

In the interest of saving weight, trying to reduce the number of connectors.
I have removed both av plugs and USB power plug.
My nex5n powers the converter.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 12:57 PM
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So the 5N can power it via the HDMI? Well, my cable should arrive shortly, I'll test it before yanking the USB plug. Thanks.

Maybe this depends on exactly which converter you get, rather than depending on the camera.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 01:31 PM
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Hawaii
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Originally Posted by jetstuff View Post
Can't you just tap off a receiver servo port supply, even if you are not using it for the camera control?
Yes I can. However I have to put the IR control on the camera so tapping off the power from the multi rotor means I have another dangling wire between the camera gimbal and the multi rotor. For the brushless gimbal the more wires dangling the more likely they will get hung up.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by featherodd View Post
I believe you can power a 3.3v Pro Mini with a single cell lipoly attached to the RAW pin, until the Lipo hits around ~3.4volts which is a nice dropout point. The 5.5v version would require a 2 cells and will likely run a bit hotter.
I am using the 5V Pro Mini so I have to look for a small 2 cell. How many mah do I need? Probably very little since the button battery on my GentLED can run for many months.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 01:41 PM
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>>Hi Seismic(is Hans your name? ),<<

It is Hansen.

>> it is an Alexmos board and newer firmware, 2.1.<<

I just downloaded the new firmware but I didn't try it yet.

>> I think I can also live with that, oscillation only happens when gimbal is tilted far backward or far forward, but will try reducing P and power. But as I said, the problem is related to the roll, it starts oscilating when I tilt the gimbal.<<

Yup you are right. It is only on the roll axis when the camera tilts up. I tried it on the bench and when the oscillation begins the camera will be taking pictures of the propellers so I don't worry about it much.

>>And, how about that slight vibration that comes from the motors? it is not because of high D values, even when D and I is zero I can feel the vibration, but
can hear nothing.<<

A little vibration is ok. The camera can handle it. Try to shoot some video and see. Too much vibration will cause jello on your video footage. Yes the vibration is from D.

>> I'm getting old and deaf, my wife and daughters can hear something.<<

So funny, I am the exact same way. My wife and daughter complain when I tune my gimbal on the bench because they can hear all the high pitch sound. I am also hard of hearing and didn't hear a thing.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
I am using the 5V Pro Mini so I have to look for a small 2 cell. How many mah do I need? Probably very little since the button battery on my GentLED can run for many months.
Probably get the smallest one you can find.

I have run the APM2.5 off of a 2S 370 mAH, and it lasts like an hour, and that is running a bigger processor, GPS, Magnetometer, IMU, etc. etc.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre View Post
Interesting data point. I wonder if the 3.3V unit can actually take 3.7V direct on the Vcc. In my experience, Atmega's specs are very conservative. I think the Atmega 2560 on an Arduino Mega can actually handle up to 6V Vcc. 5.5V for sure. And it doesn't brownout until something like 2.8V. On the APM2.5, the voltage limits are actually set by all the other things on the board that don't like high and low voltage. Namely, the 32u2 which browns out at 3.3V, and the MPU6000 which has a narrow range too.
I've definitely heard of people powering a 3.3v pro mini off an unregulated 1s lipo connected directly to the VCC pin without problems. I assume they're doing this to circumvent any extra power draw from the regulator? Never tried this myself. Figure if the voltage dropout point is acceptable, why not use the built in regulator / RAW pin.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
I am using the 5V Pro Mini so I have to look for a small 2 cell. How many mah do I need? Probably very little since the button battery on my GentLED can run for many months.
I believe the power draw on the 5V mini should be ~20mA. The IR LED could be pulling another 20-40mA, but intermittently. I think a 120mAh 2s should run for at least 4 or 5 hours, possibly much longer. Just guessing.
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 02:39 PM
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It probably wouldn't be hard either, to set up a small circuit to monitor battery voltage, and you could make the Arduino do something when the battery voltage gets low. You could make it shut off, but then I think it would just reboot. You could have it turn on a red LED when voltage goes below 3.5V/cell. You'd just need a few more resistors, a red LED, and a bit more wire...
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Old Jul 11, 2013, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by featherodd View Post
I believe the power draw on the 5V mini should be ~20mA. The IR LED could be pulling another 20-40mA, but intermittently. I think a 120mAh 2s should run for at least 4 or 5 hours, possibly much longer. Just guessing.
I don't need 4 to 5 hours. My flights are only 5 minutes each and I only have 10 battery packs. I will find the smallest pack. I have two header pins side by side between RAW and ground so a JST connector from the battery pack will be perfect. I don't even want a switch.
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Old Jul 12, 2013, 07:38 AM
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Hansen, have you tested the gimbal with the third axis (yaw)?
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