Originally Posted by TROY01

No I have not yet put a tach on it to check. The output is way below what is shown by the Hyperion test data. I am getting 300 watts at 10.5v with the APC 10-7vs 406 watts shown for this motor. Even at 11.13 volts I am getting only 323 watts and I should be seeing in the area of 480 watts. No matter how efficient it may be the power with this prop is not even close.

I think you are measuring input to the motor, not output. Put a tach on it to see where you are.

You could always hook up the battery to a light bulb to burn watts. That wouldn't get you very far tho'.

If the rpm isn't where it is suppose to be, I would check out the motor kV to make sure it is where it is suppose to be. If it is, then the stator resistance--or the ESC resistance is the issue.

This is assuming the data you are referring to are valid of course.

Thanks Alan:

I know that watts is just a barometer for power, and it is the power to the prop that moves the airframe but when I use the watt meter to check my other 450 w Hyperion motor I get about 450 watts. I will check the rpm, however I doubt it will be in the 10,200 range. How do I test the KV?

Test KV by measuring the no-load RPM at at least 2 different voltages.

Looks to me you might have a 3014-14 there, but cant say for sure without RPM.

If you get 323 watts and you want 480, use a bigger prop, or exchange for a lower KV motor.

It happens with all manufactures that a motor gets mislabeled from time to time. You cant tell what KV it is just by looking at it.

Thanks. I seems to me the kv may be too low. The 3014-14 would look identical to the 3014-12. When I put larger prop on it the watts really jumped up, but in this case an 1100 kv is what I want. I dont really have a way to measure a no load prop.

2 black stripes with a magic marker on the flux ring, an optical tach and a bright flashlight work for me measuring no load RPM.

Im sure wherever you bought it from would be glad to exchange it out for you.

Thanks! I will try that.

Originally Posted by Dylwad

2 black stripes with a magic marker on the flux ring, an optical tach and a bright flashlight work for me measuring no load RPM.

Im sure wherever you bought it from would be glad to exchange it out for you.

I tached it as you described and was surprised to find the KV is right on the money at 1034. Tached with an APC 11-5.5 and gets 9500 rpm at 11.6volts with the Thunder Power 2200 30C. Hyperion shows 10230 rpm at 11.2 volts.

Hi Does anyone have any data with the HS-22 series motors with props. I'm thinking about maybe using one on a multiplex merlin on 2s or 3s for a very fast setup

Unfortunately i dont know how they would cope so could anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks

Brett

10-7 APC 9400rpm @ 11.3v drawing 32.3a and 333 watts. I was expecting about 10300 rpm drawing 43 amp based upon published test data. I am getting the same or better power with a cheapie motor that weighs 25g less. I know I can get much more power if I increase the prop size but still...... this is not what I was expecting.

Originally Posted by TROY01

I tached it as you described and was surprised to find the KV is right on the money at 1034.
...

I am not quite sure why 1034 is right on the money? This motor is supposed to have a kV of 1132. If your motor does have a kV of around 1034, that would explain your problem. (I know you are actually measuring no-load rpm but it should be fairly close to kV).

you method of madness seems really ODD to me, go back to your cheapo motor, put it on the watt meter and see what the battery volts are under the load.

My guess is the volts will be less meaning the motor is working harder for the same prop, than with the HYPerion which would mean load it up.

Why your stuck on a particular KV is also strange, KV and battery cell count is basically the gears within a gearbox to get a net output result of a particular thrust or prop prefference.

Ultimately setting up for e power is more of thrust to weight and wing loading, and minimum flight time, THIS in the end determines energy density of battery penalty weight needed. It does'nt matter if its a 1s ouputting 50C or a 10s outputting 7C ITS THE SAME weight penalty.

Thus going back to the motor as an empty gearbox shell and plugging in the KV / cell count as the gears to the prop/thrust as the output work load.

If you want more rpms either bump up the KV or cell count and keep prop the same.

IMHO I see the Hyperion a huge ++++ over the cheapo in all you've decsribed.

The Hyperions motors I use are the only sub 180 gram motors I can push to 2000 watts all summer long in midwest heat and humidity.

If you want more thrust and a given setup try a 3 bladed GWS prop, they are very miserly on amps AND you will like it in the Brio as ground clearance increases, downline braking improves, and prop torq is reduced.


Good luck.........02

Originally Posted by TROY01

I tached it as you described and was surprised to find the KV is right on the money at 1034. Tached with an APC 11-5.5 and gets 9500 rpm at 11.6volts with the Thunder Power 2200 30C. Hyperion shows 10230 rpm at 11.2 volts.

I note that that rpm seems to match the prop rpm on the 3014-14!

I got about the same watts to amp on the cheapie motor allthough it did not check the rpm. I bought an aluminium spinner for this plane to fit a 10-7 APC prop based upon the advertised test data. I may very well be able to put a 12-8 APC prop and get 550 watts and that is great, however that was not what I had in mind when I purchased the motor. Yes I could bump up the KV to get more rpm but I purchaed this motor expecting to get in the range of the advertised test data. Thi motor may be powerfull and it may be efficient I don't know. If the rpm data is of no use and no value then there would be no point in supplying it to consumers.

Originally Posted by c/f

you method of madness seems really ODD to me, go back to your cheapo motor, put it on the watt meter and see what the battery volts are under the load.

My guess is the volts will be less meaning the motor is working harder for the same prop, than with the HYPerion which would mean load it up.

Why your stuck on a particular KV is also strange, KV and battery cell count is basically the gears within a gearbox to get a net output result of a particular thrust or prop prefference.

Ultimately setting up for e power is more of thrust to weight and wing loading, and minimum flight time, THIS in the end determines energy density of battery penalty weight needed. It does'nt matter if its a 1s ouputting 50C or a 10s outputting 7C ITS THE SAME weight penalty.

Thus going back to the motor as an empty gearbox shell and plugging in the KV / cell count as the gears to the prop/thrust as the output work load.

If you want more rpms either bump up the KV or cell count and keep prop the same.

IMHO I see the Hyperion a huge ++++ over the cheapo in all you've decsribed.

The Hyperions motors I use are the only sub 180 gram motors I can push to 2000 watts all summer long in midwest heat and humidity.

If you want more thrust and a given setup try a 3 bladed GWS prop, they are very miserly on amps AND you will like it in the Brio as ground clearance increases, downline braking improves, and prop torq is reduced.


Good luck.........02

Originally Posted by TROY01

I got about the same watts to amp on the cheapie motor allthough it did not check the rpm. I bought an aluminium spinner for this plane to fit a 10-7 APC prop based upon the advertised test data. I may very well be able to put a 12-8 APC prop and get 550 watts and that is great, however that was not what I had in mind when I purchased the motor. Yes I could bump up the KV to get more rpm but I purchaed this motor expecting to get in the range of the advertised test data. Thi motor may be powerfull and it may be efficient I don't know. If the rpm data is of no use and no value then there would be no point in supplying it to consumers.

There are so many different variables (battery,ESC,prop type etc.) that can affect "prop data" there's no way any two people will achieve the exact same results.

Hyperion would literally have to test each and every possible combination available to get accurate results for each persons setup. Obviously that would mean millions of different configurations and will never happen.

Also, You cant compare 2 motors just based on their amp draw on the same prop, you have to compare voltage and RPM too, or your just guessing that one is better than the other.

This happened early on when outrunners started showing up, Lots of people were comparing them to geared inrunners just based on the fact they pulled more amps on the same prop, what happened when they checked RPM was that the outrunners were pulling more amps and giving less RPM, so producing less usable power while using more power.

In other words, get a -12, and dont bash the -14 for not being a -12