cassb, he was trying to be sure that you ARE removing the bind plug.
You are correct in removing it.
After binding, you do turn the Tx on first correct? Give it 5 to 10 seconds before connecting battery.
And be sure you unplug the batt first to shutdown.

Originally Posted by IFlyRCs

cassb, he was trying to be sure that you ARE removing the bind plug.
You are correct in removing it.
After binding, you do turn the Tx on first correct? Give it 5 to 10 seconds before connecting battery.
And be sure you unplug the batt first to shutdown.

Thanks -- yes I do turn on the TX first and turn it off last.

Actually, I got a response in another thread about this issue, which I think might help others, so I'll copy it below. I have not tried these steps yet, but my suspicion is that I have a bad receiver.

Insert the bind plug into the batt slot and plug the ESC cable into Ch1 (or any other for now). Note the correct orientation of the plug as indicated on the receiver. Plug the ESC into a 2 or 3-cell LiPo. Leave the transmitter OFF.

You should see rapid flashing of the LED, indicating that the receiver is in bind mode.

Possibilities if it doesn't flash include:

Connector reversed (try it the other way)
Bad bind plug (try another)
Lack of power (try another ESC)
Dead battery (try another)
Bad receiver (send it back)

If you don't see the receiver flashing, there's no point in thinking about any other issues as nothing can happen if it's not in bind mode.

Well, for some reason i had tunnel vision last night, SORRY GANG.
O.K. Not alot of esc's can do the things i was saying, but after seeing starhoppers post, and once having an old multiplex esc that came out of my funcopter, I will say however, that SOME escs' have a motor direction option.

I promise, that will be the last i say of that.

SORRY EVERYONE!!

Originally Posted by cassb

Yes, I remove the bind plug after the light in the RX stays on steady and is bound to the TX. What, you have to leave the bind plug in there permanently??

So what did you learn?
You're getting the flashes and then it binds and stays solid right?

Originally Posted by Sculptor

Attachment 4931232What I'm about to ask is out of step with the current conversation.

This sky surfer is my first plane. Bought it 2/12. Crashed 11 times, flown 26 times. I'm gaining on it.

1. I'm trying to take-off and land from runway to qualify for license to fly.
To this end I installed a 'belly wheel' And tail skid. Tried 4 times to take-off and did not. Tail skid got ground down to the return stub. Is the 'angle of attack' to flat? I can cut down the bottom of the tail for more up angle. I've seen vids of the SS taking off from grass but mine seems to push down hard, won't move.

Please tell me what you think,
DJ

I've taken your suggestions and moved the wheel back and lowered it 3/8". Then I cut-off the foam bump at the rear and installed a short, hard plastic one lowering it 5/8".

Y'all think this might now get off the ground? Oh and I installed a Esky 704 rate only on the rudder.

Thanks for all your help on this, I'll try and fly it tomorrow.

DJ

no, you remove the bind plug....

Originally Posted by IFlyRCs

So what did you learn?
You're getting the flashes and then it binds and stays solid right?

Everything works OK until I turn off the transmitter. When I turn it back on again, it won't reconnect to that receiver any more until I go through the bind process again.

One weird thing about the Tx ... the green light on the back where the bind button is on the DX7 -- when I turn on the Tx, that light flashes for about 3 seconds then goes off. Isn't it supposed to be on solid?

Originally Posted by cassb

Everything works OK until I turn off the transmitter. When I turn it back on again, it won't reconnect to that receiver any more until I go through the bind process again.

One weird thing about the Tx ... the green light on the back where the bind button is on the DX7 -- when I turn on the Tx, that light flashes for about 3 seconds then goes off. Isn't it supposed to be on solid?

My DX7 light stays on and have no issues with it. That's the original DX7 not the new 7s

I get a super quick green flash and then it comes on solid.

Originally Posted by IFlyRCs

I get a super quick green flash and then it comes on solid.

Hm.... then I think maybe there's a problem with the Tx, or maybe some setting that is unset or wrong.

Haven't been in this thread in a while, and I searched on gyro but wow so many posts. So apologies if this has been covered.

I used 2 of the xheli gy48v's before for ail/ele. When I use my SS for video I still see some shake and I always wanted to put a 3rd on rudder but I'm running out of room and channels (for gain).

For pennies (or a penny) less than $20 HK now has this i86 3 axis gyro. I've used their KK boards on quadcopters before but this one is smaller, MEMs, and switchable via dipswitches. You set gain on the board so no more trying to remember gain settings for each plane.

I am in the process of putting one in the SS and will report hopefully with some video.

If it works I'll stick some in my warbirds as well cuz I hate the rudder shake in light winds.

Originally Posted by cassb

Hm.... then I think maybe there's a problem with the Tx, or maybe some setting that is unset or wrong.

Well, I figured it out! The button is partially pressed when I tightened down the top two screws on the back. So, it's all good now. I loosened those two screws and we're back in business! Whew!

I had removed the back cover to check out the insides and the tension adjustments. I guess you can't tighten those two top screws all the way in or it compresses the back enough to push in that button. Lesson learned.

Thanks all,
Bryan

Originally Posted by jj604

Yep.

Here it is for those of you who Tweet.

I'm assuming it will be a new version copying some of the EasyStar II features but who knows.

Or like the SkyS version 4?

problem solved

Originally Posted by BrianL

Or like the SkyS version 4?

Makes sense. Bixler2 = SkyS V4.
AJ