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Old Sep 09, 2012, 04:02 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBABBEL View Post
Hey T man,

Do whatever it takes to get your B3D 3S power reliable.
It's worth it!

My 3SB3D has over 200 flights on her.
Stock motor/GWS 5030 prop.
No cooling mods of any type.
I rarely fly in temps over 80 which I'm sure helps to keep things cool.

It takes a ton of power to do the good stuff!!

rc
Yea... I'm working on it and don't plan on giving up. I'll try a spare brick if I have to!
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 06:08 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2010
34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
After binding:
1)unplug the plane
2)Power off the TX
3)Power on the TX
4)Move the Throttle trim back to middle (leave it here forever now)
5)plug in Plane
6)fly and have fun!

This should fix it.





-Brian
Thanks, Brian.
I did as you suggested and the throttle response is much better. The motor comes on at about 1/4 throttle now but seems to be proportional up to full throttle from there. It's been too windy here for a maiden but I don't think the throttle will be a problem while flying my Beast.

Kim
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 09:15 PM
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Joined Aug 2004
135 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Here is a couple links showing the Erkq's heatsinks, A bad glue job on a brick, and my cooling scoop.
My board that kept cutting out and was replaced by HH looks like the one on your post, except I have more of the white glue overlapping with one of those 3 chips.

So is the current thinking - the sloppiness on this glue is causing overheating on the board? In that case if you take one of these 'bad' boards, remove this excessive glue and then refit it with less glue it should be good right? Has anyone tried this?

On my replacement board I was pretty generous with the white glue to fit my new board in place. Maybe I was just lucky that I didn't get any overlap in the wrong places? It's been perfect so far, I've flown maybe 30 or so batteries on it so far.... and loving it :-)
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 09:44 PM
Parkzone junkie
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
3,648 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by khooke View Post
My board that kept cutting out and was replaced by HH looks like the one on your post, except I have more of the white glue overlapping with one of those 3 chips.

So is the current thinking - the sloppiness on this glue is causing overheating on the board? In that case if you take one of these 'bad' boards, remove this excessive glue and then refit it with less glue it should be good right? Has anyone tried this?

On my replacement board I was pretty generous with the white glue to fit my new board in place. Maybe I was just lucky that I didn't get any overlap in the wrong places? It's been perfect so far, I've flown maybe 30 or so batteries on it so far.... and loving it :-)
Yes, My board was much worse than the one I linked to. I removed the brick, scraped off the glue, attached a heatsink to the FETs and one on the VR plate. I can now fly 3S WOT with no problems.

Yes I did add heatsinks but I feel it would have worked without with all the glue removed.

-Brian
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 04:29 PM
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flydown's Avatar
United States, AZ, Peoria
Joined Aug 2010
1,017 Posts
Staying Bounded Issue

After my initial binding I have had to rebind 3 more times in between flights after changing batteries. And yes, the radio was turned on first and the throttle and throttle trim was in the down position and the batteries are fresh and fully charged. After it happens I just rebind again and it is Ok until I change batteries and then it happens again.
Am I missing something as this has not happened on any of my other planes?
Has anyone else been having this issue?
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 07:53 PM
Parkzone junkie
kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
3,648 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flydown View Post
After my initial binding I have had to rebind 3 more times in between flights after changing batteries. And yes, the radio was turned on first and the throttle and throttle trim was in the down position and the batteries are fresh and fully charged. After it happens I just rebind again and it is Ok until I change batteries and then it happens again.
Am I missing something as this has not happened on any of my other planes?
Has anyone else been having this issue?
You don't have to rebind, just unplug and replug the battery. I had this problem on my first Sbach. It would do it random times, sometimes I'd get 20 batteries and sometimes it would do it 4 packs in a row.

-Brian
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 10:13 PM
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flydown's Avatar
United States, AZ, Peoria
Joined Aug 2010
1,017 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
You don't have to rebind, just unplug and replug the battery. I had this problem on my first Sbach. It would do it random times, sometimes I'd get 20 batteries and sometimes it would do it 4 packs in a row.

-Brian
Tried the unplug and replug this evening and it worked.
Thanks!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 01:44 AM
"Kneel before Zod!"
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Tacoma, WA. USA
Joined Dec 2003
490 Posts
I have been flying my B3D since last December with no issues. Today I came in for a landing, picked up the plane, and just as I was about to unplug the battery the rudder went full right and locked up (talk about perfect timing). I got it working again, but I have read here that some electronics cleaner might be in order. I have this cleaner/lube.....but.....should I do the right thing and get some Deoxit?
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 08:03 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,954 Posts
Get some DeoxIT F-series (also known as FaderLube). Either F5 or F100 in the aerosol cans. You will be glad you did.

Joel
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 10:13 AM
Registered User
United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined Jan 2007
1,119 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Yes, My board was much worse than the one I linked to. I removed the brick, scraped off the glue, attached a heatsink to the FETs and one on the VR plate. I can now fly 3S WOT with no problems.

Yes I did add heatsinks but I feel it would have worked without with all the glue removed.

-Brian
Had same issue with Carbon Cub, removed excess black glop and seems fine now in a test CC. I installed a new HH supplied brick in my GOOD CC and it is doing fine. I paln on reusing old brick in another plane now.

Tim
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 01:41 PM
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United States, MA, Braintree
Joined Oct 2011
45 Posts
3s problems

I have the same problem with the beast 3d as in I'm using a nanotech 180mah 3s i bought from a forum member, popped it in and gave it throttle around 60% - 70% the power would just die. I kept trying it over and over and it would spin up get to half die. Played with my thottle curve to cap it at max 70% still no dice. Flies fine on 2s.

I'm so pissed... Bought the 2300kv motor, batteries and I just feel denied. I just want to make sure I understand that its just random luck that I got one of the lousy bricks that can't fly 3s ? So If I bought another beast same battery, motor etc.. it may or may not work? (with my luck I'd buy 2 that couldn't do it)...

Jealous as all hell of you guys!!!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 02:00 PM
BMFA 190658
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United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
4,501 Posts
Mine did that too. Cutting a cooling hole around the motor solved it
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 03:45 PM
Parkzone junkie
kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
3,648 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonFlyGuy View Post
I have the same problem with the beast 3d as in I'm using a nanotech 180mah 3s i bought from a forum member, popped it in and gave it throttle around 60% - 70% the power would just die. I kept trying it over and over and it would spin up get to half die. Played with my thottle curve to cap it at max 70% still no dice. Flies fine on 2s.

I'm so pissed... Bought the 2300kv motor, batteries and I just feel denied. I just want to make sure I understand that its just random luck that I got one of the lousy bricks that can't fly 3s ? So If I bought another beast same battery, motor etc.. it may or may not work? (with my luck I'd buy 2 that couldn't do it)...

Jealous as all hell of you guys!!!
Like Silentpilot said it needs more cooling. I posted pics of my cooling hole and scoop a couple days ago. Check them out. The other thing that most likely needs to be done is to open the plane up and scrape off any black goop on the FETs by where the battery leads attach and any white goop from the other side that is touching the FETs. Any of that silicone touching the black FETs WILL cause it to overheat. While you are in there you can attach a small heatsink with thermal tape. This will all but guarantee it will work on 3S.

-Brian
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 07:14 PM
"Kneel before Zod!"
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Tacoma, WA. USA
Joined Dec 2003
490 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Get some DeoxIT F-series (also known as FaderLube). Either F5 or F100 in the aerosol cans. You will be glad you did.

Joel
Okay, i'll order it tonight. Thanks.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 07:29 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovector View Post
Okay, i'll order it tonight. Thanks.
This is where I ordered it. Free shipping. Fast service. Great guys.

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FaderLubeS
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