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Old Apr 24, 2014, 10:08 AM
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United States, MA, Webster
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Originally Posted by MIGPILOT44 View Post
I don't think it would be the best idea to mount it up not knowing for sure if the gear is the underlying problem. The wobble / vibration is violent enough for those few split seconds that I feel it could crack the mounting points and / or even put the head into the upper fuselage if the fuse shifted. I would really hate myself if I where to bust up such a nice fuselage.

I wish I had a video of the heli spooling up to pass along. My plan is to recheck and adjust my pitch and curve settings prior to the next outing with it. I will also video the process and pass it along if the problem persists.

I really appreciate everyones input here, thank you!
Hi, MigPilot:

I understand what you are saying, but you are mis-understanding me .. or I should have been more specific ?!?

Mount the mechanics on the aluminum "scale platform", and mount the semi scale landing gear to that .. NO fuselage. The only real problem I see is that you will have no tail boom support, for which I ordered a pair of tail boom supports and a boom clamp to attach the supports to the boom, the other end will attach to the "scale platform", to prevent the tail boom from bouncing around. By using this method, you can also get your battery packs and COG somewhat where they need to be.

And, I assume you have already meticulously balanced your head, flybar (IF you are using one), main blades, tail rotor, with and without blades ??

Russ
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 11:50 AM
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United States, PA
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Originally Posted by MiniBoy View Post
Hi, MigPilot:

I understand what you are saying, but you are mis-understanding me .. or I should have been more specific ?!?

Mount the mechanics on the aluminum "scale platform", and mount the semi scale landing gear to that .. NO fuselage. The only real problem I see is that you will have no tail boom support, for which I ordered a pair of tail boom supports and a boom clamp to attach the supports to the boom, the other end will attach to the "scale platform", to prevent the tail boom from bouncing around. By using this method, you can also get your battery packs and COG somewhat where they need to be.

And, I assume you have already meticulously balanced your head, flybar (IF you are using one), main blades, tail rotor, with and without blades ??

Russ
Sorry, I did mis understand you. I don't see a problem mounting it as you described, that makes sense to me now. I have a set of boom supports for this heli. When I ordered the Real Deal kit I went through and figured out what I needed, shy of a canopy, just to get this heli in the air and dialed in.

Yes, I have been through balancing the parts you mentioned more than once. In fact it has baffled me so much I think I've balanced everything on 4 separate occasions.

Thanks for all the help
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 02:22 PM
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Marysville, Ca., US
Joined Jan 2007
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MigPilot,

The Swift is notorious for doing this "chicken dance" on spool up and spool down. As someone here already said, it is mostly due to ground resonance and harmonics in the frame. I have the original model of the Swift, the Swift 16, which is a direct forerunner to the Swift NX, and it had an even more violent shake on spool up. The 16's landing gear was even taller than the NX gear, and not as stout. Two things I did to minimize the shake: 1) I installed T-Rex 600 landing gear which is shorter and wider than either forms of the stock landing gear. The other thing is once you start to spool up, get to zero pitch as quickly as you can. This will minimize the shaking as you spool up to flying speed. Same thing on landing; bring the collective to zero pitch quickly after touch down, and hold it there while the Swift finishes its spool down. Obviously this means you are using throttle hold to cut power and not the throttle/collective stick.

HTH and good luck with your build.
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 03:12 PM
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I did the 8" spread mode on my Swift NX and found it got rid of all the shaking on spool up and spool down. Saved me having to purchase any other landing gear and insured I had adequate tail rotor clearance.
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Old Apr 24, 2014, 11:51 PM
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United States, PA
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Originally Posted by norcalheli View Post
MigPilot,

The Swift is notorious for doing this "chicken dance" on spool up and spool down. As someone here already said, it is mostly due to ground resonance and harmonics in the frame. I have the original model of the Swift, the Swift 16, which is a direct forerunner to the Swift NX, and it had an even more violent shake on spool up. The 16's landing gear was even taller than the NX gear, and not as stout. Two things I did to minimize the shake: 1) I installed T-Rex 600 landing gear which is shorter and wider than either forms of the stock landing gear. The other thing is once you start to spool up, get to zero pitch as quickly as you can. This will minimize the shaking as you spool up to flying speed. Same thing on landing; bring the collective to zero pitch quickly after touch down, and hold it there while the Swift finishes its spool down. Obviously this means you are using throttle hold to cut power and not the throttle/collective stick.

HTH and good luck with your build.
Oddly enough I was planning on using the early Trex 600 gear on the Jet Ranger when I ever got the Swift trimmed out and put into the fuse.

My work schedule has not been cooperative with doing any tinkering, I'm hoping this weekend I can get around to working on the Swift. Looks like rain the next couple days.

Thank you for the tip on the gear.
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Old Jun 30, 2014, 03:55 PM
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United States, PA
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Has anyone who has worked with the Funkey Jet Ranger run into issues with getting smooth operation of the rudder control rod? I have the mechanics sitting about as high as I can to get a straight shot down the tail boom but the boom is still sitting to low in the boom portion of the fuse and I think the rod is dragging somewhere along the fiberglass.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 04:55 PM
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New Smyrna Beach, FL
Joined Jun 2005
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I just finished reading through all five pages trying to catch up again with this thread. Earlier on I think it was suggested to use a nyrod pushrod to actuate the tail control. The tail servo can be relocated to the forward part of the mechanics, or any free space. Cable tie the outer pushrod sleeve to the boom and you have a very compact, smooth, and interference free linkage. I had to do this with my 450 size MD500.

Mike
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 04:56 PM
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Russ and John, any more progress?
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 06:17 PM
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United States, MA, Webster
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Russ and John, any more progress?
Unfortunately ..

I have gotten tangled up with a DJI Phantom and Mobius camera, which I have also made little progress with ..

To introduce a little ( LOTTT ) more confusion, I am nursing a very sick "other half" from a hospital stint, and between all the yard duties, and now the "house-keeping" / cooking / grocery / laundry duties .. there is only time to dream about the Hobby Department ..

This, too shall pass, hopefully ..

Last I heard, John has been pretty busy crashing his FPV FlyZone Sensei .. had to remortgage his house to buy more Shoo-Glue ..

LOL ..

But, thanks for asking ..

Russ
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mligosh View Post
I just finished reading through all five pages trying to catch up again with this thread. Earlier on I think it was suggested to use a nyrod pushrod to actuate the tail control. The tail servo can be relocated to the forward part of the mechanics, or any free space. Cable tie the outer pushrod sleeve to the boom and you have a very compact, smooth, and interference free linkage. I had to do this with my 450 size MD500.

Mike
Using some of the red nyrod guide I was able to make a nice rudder control rod holder. The action is much smoother now and should work out fine.

This is the first Funkey fuselage I've worked with. The detail and parts fitment is really top notch.

Mike, nice looking MD500!
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