Does anyone have an extra GPS base mount that they would be willing to sell me? I just need the bottom mounting piece. I have looked but the mounting parts are not sold seperate any where. If you know where, please point me to them.
Thanks

Found one.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1749888

have you seen this alternative?

Originally Posted by mewert

Does anyone have an extra GPS base mount that they would be willing to sell me? I just need the bottom mounting piece. I have looked but the mounting parts are not sold seperate any where. If you know where, please point me to them.
Thanks

Will give it a try just as soon as it quits raining
oldgrandpa

Originally Posted by mark_q

As I unerstand the NAZA, altitude has nothing to do with whether GPS is connected or not because the FC uses only the baro sensor in either case. So, position lock uses GPS for just two axis (left/right, for/aft) and the Baro for altitude. Also, what can affect altitude is sunlight (wierd, I know!) and there is a black tape fix for this (I taped both sides).

I'm sure someone here will correct me if I am mistaken here.
mark

Will give it a try when it quits raining

Hi everyone,

I've been on this thread for a while now and have had my naza for 2-3 weeks and it has amazed me up until today... last night, i perfected my gps mounting dimensions so it would hold position a bit better and then flew for 40 minutes with it flying great.. altitude and gps hold was working great.. I planned to do the same today so i took it out and put it in gps hold and went to hover...and it started doing this altitude hold "bounce" first cycle is say a 1 ft in amplitude which grows to about 10 ft of up and down.. I think to myself..."weird, i haven't changed my gains..." so i check the props for tightness, arms for straightness, etc. everything looks great just like the night before. So then i decide to investigate thinking that its over-correcting so i drop the vertical gain to 50%... it still does it....raised to 200%... it still does it...calibrated my Tx again..no luck

It flys great in manual mode... no surges in power no twitches and holds throttle level well...no oscilations..

In att. and atti+gps mode, theres no problems with pitch/roll/yaw... just altitude hold

I believe if i had been higher than 10ft. off the ground it would have exponentially grown until it would have fallen so fast that it may not be stable and flip in the prop wash..

i was out there flying troubleshooting this for 20 minutes.. plenty of time for the temperature to acclimate the difference of 15 degree (~60F outside)

My settings which have not changed since day 2 (about since at least 15 5000mah batteries of flight ago)

165% pitch 165% roll 130% yaw 130% vertical and 200% attitude on both.

any ideas or past experiences?

faulty baro. sensor?

video:

Naza altitude hold problem... (1 min 39 sec)

i started flying in manual, and at 18 sec. I switch to gps mode.. all of the roll pitch inputs are me. It will randomly go into this oscillation even if i do not move the pitch roll stick. But doing this motion sends it into it earlier...sorry for the poor video. my phone was not wanting to cooperate either..!

UPDATE:
when i was having this problem i power cycled it a few times (waited about 15 seconds between cycles) no luck still had the issue with two separate batteries.

I came inside and wrote this post, then decided to troubleshoot some more outside.. took the quad back outside.. and voila!.. no more issues... with the same two batteries... flew for 30minutes trouble free.... I am thinking maybe a cold solder joint of the baro?.... my motors, escs, power distribution board and frame have been the same for the past year with several FC's the only change to my setup has been flashing the escs with simonk firmware.

Originally Posted by danielnc06

Hi everyone,

I've been on this thread for a while now and have had my naza for 2-3 weeks and it has amazed me up until today... last night, i perfected my gps mounting dimensions so it would hold position a bit better and then flew for 40 minutes with it flying great.. altitude and gps hold was working great.. I planned to do the same today so i took it out and put it in gps hold and went to hover...and it started doing this altitude hold "bounce" first cycle is say a 1 ft in amplitude which grows to about 10 ft of up and down.. I think to myself..."weird, i haven't changed my gains..." so i check the props for tightness, arms for straightness, etc. everything looks great just like the night before. So then i decide to investigate thinking that its over-correcting so i drop the vertical gain to 50%... it still does it....raised to 200%... it still does it...calibrated my Tx again..no luck

It flys great in manual mode... no surges in power no twitches and holds throttle level well...no oscilations..

In att. and atti+gps mode, theres no problems with pitch/roll/yaw... just altitude hold

I believe if i had been higher than 10ft. off the ground it would have exponentially grown until it would have fallen so fast that it may not be stable and flip in the prop wash..

i was out there flying troubleshooting this for 20 minutes.. plenty of time for the temperature to acclimate the difference of 15 degree (~60F outside)

My settings which have not changed since day 2 (about since at least 15 5000mah batteries of flight ago)

165% pitch 165% roll 130% yaw 130% vertical and 200% attitude on both.

any ideas or past experiences?

faulty baro. sensor?


video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nezw9Vi7aI4&feature=plcp

i started flying in manual, and at 18 sec. I switch to gps mode.. all of the roll pitch inputs are me. It will randomly go into this oscillation even if i do not move the pitch roll stick. But doing this motion sends it into it earlier...sorry for the poor video. my phone was not wanting to cooperate either..!

UPDATE:
when i was having this problem i power cycled it a few times (waited about 15 seconds between cycles) no luck still had the issue with two separate batteries.

I came inside and wrote this post, then decided to troubleshoot some more outside.. took the quad back outside.. and voila!.. no more issues... with the same two batteries... flew for 30minutes trouble free.... I am thinking maybe a cold solder joint of the baro?.... my motors, escs, power distribution board and frame have been the same for the past years with several FC's the only change to my setup has been flashing the escs with simonk firmware.

there's been some issues with "sunlight" creating similar problems. Go back a few pages and you'll see that some have solved this by putting electrical tape on the side of the FC to fix it. I don't know that this is your problem but, worth looking at!

Originally Posted by nike25

there's been some issues with "sunlight" creating similar problems. Go back a few pages and you'll see that some have solved this by putting electrical tape on the side of the FC to fix it. I don't know that this is your problem but, worth looking at!

I'll try that too .. i really doubt that was it but it won't hurt... it was very erratic behavior and i was still in the shadows when it started..

Cool video! Hope it didn't hurt your multirotor slamming into the ground..

Originally Posted by 320pilot

Cool video! Hope it didn't hurt your multirotor slamming into the ground..

soft grass... and it has touched down much harder before..haha..

does any one have a clue why when i hook my usb up to my laptop that has been working perfect before to configure my new naza the led on the vu is a dull green and not yellow. this naza has 1x 5 min flight on it and all i have done is take it out of an ht-fpv frame and install it in my newest discovery frame. i can prommise that all connections are in the right spot.

just odd that i was able to program it when i bought it new and now just sitting, for 1 month and install in a diff ship i cant even hook it up to the pc. the dull half lit green led has me worried. i thought it may be the cable so i tried 2 more and same result. my other disco works perfect. any ideas would be great. thanks

oh............,all works as far as programming and switches etc as i have already flown it tonight, just need to configure the 3c -4cell as i run 4c on the disco and i also need to configure the x y z from changing frames. i dont think it is driver related. and my vu is lit as it should in all modes, just cant connect it to the pc.

ok i just checked my other one and it seems i have a problem in my pc, prob when i was loading custom roms for android phones etc........ i think i remember disabling one of my pid ports deep inside my pc programing. i think i rem what i did . lol

Originally Posted by wazzer

Guys

You should be focusing on how to reduce the source of the vibrations as opposed to isolating the vibrations.
In fact i think this is easier than trying to find that Magic Foam/Gell/Rubber, whatever, that everyone seems to be looking for.

If you balance all your motors AND balance all your Props correctly then you may not even need to look for this magic VooDoo vibration isolating miracle!

I agree that sensitive electrnics such as cameras should be "soft" mounted with a some sort of foam but its there to protect the camera as opposed to isolate the vibrations.

Its pretty simple to get great results balancing motors these days as most of us have smartphones that can be used for vibration analysis.
Check out this simple video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Q_yigvysspo

Do that AND balance your props and you will find that you will have very little vibs left to isolate the camer a from.

Any resulting vibs in your airframe will probably be from the propwash over the arms.
This can be reduced with round arms as square ones create the most turbualnce.
Teardrop shaped arms would be best but very dificult to find.

Just my 2 cents!

Ben

G'day Ben,

With this technique do you remove the first piece of tape and put a new piece 1/8 from where the first one was?

? guys......was updating m y naza to latest and the cord got ripped out of vu durrubg process, now it aborts the update. did i brick my naza?

Originally Posted by Teamsherman

G'day Ben,

With this technique do you remove the first piece of tape and put a new piece 1/8 from where the first one was?

Possibly in the future a encoder linked to the motor shaft with a home sensing 0 deg could be made with a processor watching strain guages place at angles to determine where to put a weight and how much. A automobile electronic tire balancer does this. Such method cost too much.
I have seen many videos showing methods of balancing.
The prop balancer I have uses magnetic suspension.
However the shaft is not perfectly strait.
Should I worry about its accuracy with the shaft not strait

Hi Guys

Basically just try it and see!!

I think what he is trying to illustrate in the video is first you have to find out where the motor is out of balance. ie you have to find the "light" spot.

To do this you add then remove the first piece of tape until you see an improvement. This will be your "light" spot. Once you have found this then you can add more weight to really get rid of the vibes.

It realy is a simple process and pretty quick.

Just have ago and with a little patience and trial and error you will work out your own technique.

Once you understand the method you can do all your motors very quickly.

Regarding the Magnetic prop balancer, i have the same issue.
But due to teh fact that there is practicaly zero friction i still think you will get good results better than a tradicional prop balancer.
It does of course depend on how bent your shaft is.

Try rolling it on a flat surface so you can see the bend.
If its bad try and bend it straight in your hands if its hardly noticible then dont worry about it too much.

As soon as you have a prop touch the ground then it is no longer balanced!

You can spend hours and days balancing props but I think you only need to get it 90% there and the last 10% is not worth the effort.

For example i only tend to balance large 12 inch plus blades right down to teh prop hub but for anything 11 inchs or below i just tend to staticaly balance them and they work just great.

hope this helps

Ben