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Old Feb 07, 2015, 03:33 PM
event horizon
United States, FL, Lighthouse Point
Joined Oct 2014
302 Posts
Thanks davidmc36 I believe I resolved an issue for the moment. I have my Quad projects files, software, drivers, etc. stored in desk top folders. Even though I opened the sketch that was in the HK MW Q450 (this build) folder the board was set to an Atmega 328 instead of the Mega 2560. I have a Super X and I it uses the 328. I just noticed the HK Super X uses the 2560, as side note. I did not plug in the board but set 2560 and checked the sketch and it worked.
I'll install a wind muffler, I have plenty of open foam from the packing hardware came in. I can blow though it so I think it will work.
Do you have thought on why I can't use stck commands to calibrate the FC. I read the page on stick commands. I set my WOT to go above 1900 but it won't enter calibration for trimming.
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Old Feb 07, 2015, 03:34 PM
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Austria
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In theory it is possible to remove the bootloader .. and flash the HEX file produced by Arduino IDE via a normal USBasp programmer, using a proper tools like eXtreme Burner

Anyhow ... 328 pro mini board cost less then 2.5$ shipped ... why bother on the 168 atmega chips ?
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Old Feb 07, 2015, 03:41 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper Q View Post
.....Atmega 328 instead of the Mega 2560.....I can blow though it...calibration for trimming.
Right on, that makes sense. I was brain-blocked there for a bit. There is tons of memory space on this board.

That's the right type of foam.

Mmmmmmm........not sure right off on the calibration........you mean where you put throttle full up while un-armed and trim for no drift?
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Old Feb 08, 2015, 11:15 AM
event horizon
United States, FL, Lighthouse Point
Joined Oct 2014
302 Posts
http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...CI01242015.jpg
I think this page came from the HK site. It describes the preferred trimming process instead of using Tx trims.
For some reason the PDF is a larger file then the site supports. I had to scan the page and reduce it to upload it on the Super X thread. I can't find the reduced copy so here is a link to the page.
The other tidbit of info I have failed to find is , 'How to power" this board. Is there a protocol like with KK or APM? Does the FC power the Rx from a BEC on an ESC? I am using OPTO ESC and a 3A switching BEC for this build, On the 328 MW FC there are power leads preinstalled and the Rx is built in and the ESC's get power from the FC. So I can't use that as an example. All the documents showing termination to the board never show the power path.
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Last edited by Jasper Q; Feb 08, 2015 at 11:40 AM.
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Old Feb 08, 2015, 12:00 PM
No bounce, No play.
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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I just power mine from one of the ESC's BEC's, all the other red wires are removed from the connector and tucked away. That in turn powers the Rx.

So if you power the board from your separate BEC you should be able to connect at least one of your Rx leads with all three wires intact and power it that way. I don't know right off if there are any recommendations to use separate power supplies or anything.
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Old Feb 08, 2015, 12:24 PM
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As far as I know .. all the 5V line .. both input and output .. are all connected together (there is not filtering between 5V from motor 1 to the input lines, and the 7 independent disconnected output 5V line as in KK2.x)

Be aware ... this board has 2 regulator that power the ATmega and the 3.3v sensors ... once you apply 5v .. the ATmega get only 3.9/4.0v ... so ... there is a little buffer left ... in case the input goes below 4.xV .. you can experience a brown out
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Old Feb 08, 2015, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper Q View Post
[ I am using OPTO ESC and a 3A switching BEC for this build,
For the reasons mentioned above, BEC should be more than 5V. I have my BEC set to 6V (in reality 5.7V).

Fred
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Old Feb 09, 2015, 01:52 PM
event horizon
United States, FL, Lighthouse Point
Joined Oct 2014
302 Posts
If the BEC is in an ESC connected to the out put for a motor would that power the board? What about multiple ESC with BEC's? That is not what I,m doing just curios. I,m using a 3A switching 6 or 5V it also has seperate 2A with Tx switching for accessory. I use a HK Rx capacitor in the cicuit. So all the IO pins + & - are common?
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Old Feb 09, 2015, 03:06 PM
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Son, Norway
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If you mean Rx inputs and ESC/servo outputs, they are common. BEC in ESC can be used, but they are usually 5V, which is a bit low for this board because of the onboard 5V regulator.

Fred
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Old Feb 09, 2015, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
If you mean Rx inputs and ESC/servo outputs, they are common. BEC in ESC can be used, but they are usually 5V, which is a bit low for this board because of the onboard 5V regulator.

Fred
Unless you add any load on the board, like some servos ... even if it is "marginal", there is no real risk on using 5v as input ... the load of the board for only GPS+RX ... will keep a normal 5V BEC from the ESC stable all the time.

I'm running this board on my tricopter and I never had any issue about the 5v ... the servo is connected directly to the 5v of one of the ESC BEC .. a different BEC ESC does power the board .. and one is not connected.

The atmega chip at 16Mhz ... even if outside the specs ... run fine with only 3.3v ... this is the voltage used in the OpenLRS board running ATmega chips at 16Mhz ...
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Old Feb 13, 2015, 12:45 PM
event horizon
United States, FL, Lighthouse Point
Joined Oct 2014
302 Posts
Thanks for your input. My intuition when I first started working with the MultWii was that all the + and - were common. This is my first bought FC and then I bought KK and APM clone. I started working with them to find that they had special power requirements. I figured it is better to ask then assume.
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Old Feb 22, 2015, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by springer_bob View Post
Has anyone running MW 2.2 noticed this?

When just statically sitting there (indoors), I usually get between 8 and 9 satellites on my GPS. If I watch the map, it usually shows +/- 20 or so feet around my actual location so no problem with that. However every once and a while I see a longitudinal line that shoots off the map. After some investigation, it appears that the sign in the longitude reading is being dropped and that is what is causing the line to shoot off the map.

My question is, will this effect the way the HOLD and RTH functions work, or are these readings being filtered or possibly a quirk in the display algorithm? I'm almost afraid to try HOLD and RTH until I know for sure that this thing isn't going to go flying off into oblivion.

Thanks,
Bob
I know this is a really old posting, but i'm experiencing the exact same issue and have searched all over the site and google without a resolution. I think that it is resulting in my instability with GPS hold / RTH functionality.

Does anybody know if there is a solution to this problem, or if I may have a bad GPS module that needs to be replaced?

Basically every 5 seconds or so the GPS location for my longitude glitches from -97.xxxxx to a positive 97.xxxxxx even when I have full satellite signals. When viewed in WinGUI mission planner it shoots out the yellow flight line completely sideways. This happens over and over again.
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Old Feb 23, 2015, 08:34 AM
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Austria
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Originally Posted by sooner2k1 View Post
I know this is a really old posting, but i'm experiencing the exact same issue and have searched all over the site and google without a resolution. I think that it is resulting in my instability with GPS hold / RTH functionality.

Does anybody know if there is a solution to this problem, or if I may have a bad GPS module that needs to be replaced?

Basically every 5 seconds or so the GPS location for my longitude glitches from -97.xxxxx to a positive 97.xxxxxx even when I have full satellite signals. When viewed in WinGUI mission planner it shoots out the yellow flight line completely sideways. This happens over and over again.
GPS position hold inside multiwii does not have any "advanced" support from accelerometer data, like on APM or DJI, where GPS and ACC data get fused for improve the "accuracy/position stability"

But ... modern GPS sensor have some advanced tuning possible ... which help to improve the GPS accuracy, and allow to make the multiwii GPS usage more precise.

As well, it is important to place the GPS away from radio noise, and possibly it should be used a "shield" under the GPS

Assuming you have a NEO GPS, you can download from this page: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2157987 the GPS configuration for optimize the location accuracy for the NEO ... you can use as it is, and just update on the MultiWii code to use 38400bps and NMEA

On the same page you can find also my quick test on position hold ... that it is not perfect as a DJI, but good enough ... and definitely very good for RTH function.

Also .. don't forget, multiwii mag calibration process it is not always giving very good result ... often I need to repeat ... and it is not always trivial to know when the calibration was not so good ... luckily on KK2 , via LCD ... I can easily check if the MAG have been calibrated properly ...
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Old Yesterday, 10:05 AM
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Thanks for the detail help! I tried some things with the original GPS module, but finally gave up and bought the NEO 6M, which has worked perfectly without the random Lat/Long glitch.
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