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Old Oct 10, 2006, 10:49 PM
Token Canadian Member
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Whitby, Ontario. CANADA!!!
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Build Log
Fliton Inspire Mini - Build thread

OK here goes. I'll move along in the assembly order outlined in the manual.

NOTE: Any Inspire Mini questions or comments can be posted on the original thread located HERE

When I first opened the box, I found everything to be well packaged. All parts were present, and nothing was missing.

First thing that needs to be done is some covering material removal to make room for the landing gear, air exhaust, servos, aileron servo wire routing, and horizontal stab.

Please be sure to run a covering iron (careful of your temperature setting) around the edges of where you're going to cut. This will seal the covering to these edges and ensure that the covering won't peel back later.
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Old Oct 10, 2006, 10:53 PM
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Assembly thread - Part 2

Next is the aileron hinging and servo installation. If you're using HS56 servos, you won't need any servo extensions as their leads are long enough to comfortably reach the receiver. Remove the mounting tab on the very bottom of the servo or it will push against the covering on the top of the wing.

The supplied CA hinges are quite thin and, while strong enough, are nice and flexible once installed.

Note: For all hinging, drill a 3/32" hole into the center of the hinge slots to allow your CA to penetrate deeply into the hinge.
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Old Oct 10, 2006, 10:59 PM
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Assembly thread - Part 3

Now we install the rudder and elevator the same way as the ailerons. Use the 2mm pieces of balsa we used on the ailerons to also set the rudder's gap.

====================
Note: The manual says that the elevator and rudder pushrods are both 8 3/4" long. Mine were 7 3/4", and while the elevator pushrod reaches fine the rudder pushrod will not reach the servo. I spoke to Edson Hong (Fliton President) about this and he said that production has not been consistent for the pushrods. He has new, correct lenghth pushrods on their way from the factory and will send replacements to those that need them. Just produce a receipt via fax or scan to email. Contact info can be found on their website .

Later in the thread I'll do up a post on how to make up your own carbon pushrods.
====================

Now on the the horizontal stabilizer and elevator.
-Remove the covering from the center of the stab where it will be glued inside the fuselage.
-Center the stab and make sure that it is level and perpendicular to the thrust line. The manual outlines this procedure very well, so I'm not going to go into it in detail. Now glue the stab into the fuselage using your adhesive of choice. I like epoxy for this step.
-Remove the covering from the elevator joiner when it is glued to the left elevator half, do the same on the elevator itelf where the joiner is attached.
-Now insert the right elevator half and insert your CA hinges (don't glue them yet). Do the same with the left elevator half
-At this point you should have the elevator installed with it's unglued hinges.
-Put some good epoxy (I used 30min Z-Poxy) on the joiner to elevator joiner and tape it up tight. Use some light clamps and 1/4" balsa across the whole stab and elevator to hold everything straight while the epoxy sets up. Again, the manual does a nice job of explaining this step.
-When the elevator control horn is installed, it clamps the elevator half and joiner together very well and reinforces this glue joint. Don't worry about the strength of this glue joint, it's very well reinforced.
-Once the epoxy has set up, set your 2mm gap and CA the hinges to secure the elevator.
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Old Oct 11, 2006, 12:57 PM
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Assembly thread - Part 4

Now on to the tail skid and landing gear.

I personally prefer to have a tail wheel, but the skid works fine. The rudder has plenty of authority for steering on the ground.

-The wire is bent as per instructions and a 2cm long groove cut into the base for the wire.
-Then a small (1mm) hole is drilled at the forward edge of the groove.
-Epoxy the wire into this groove. It is a strong enough bond to hold the wire and works well. I might add a tail wheel later on but this works rather well right now.

-The landing gear legs are dimpled at their mounting location. Using a 2mm drill bit, drill holes for the mounting screws (3 in each leg).
-Because I fly off of grass exclusively and it's not always cut short, I chose not to use the wheel pants. The plane might be fine with them on, but I've never had success with small wheels, wheel pants, and a grass runway.
-Drill a 3mm hole in the landing gear leg base and secure the wheels with the supplied bolt, washer, and nuts. This is painfully simple, and the manual does an excellent job of describing the procedure (as it does for everything else).
-Now slide the completed landing gear into the fuselage and secure it with the supplied screws. Apply a small amount of thin CA to the mounting screws from the inside of the fuselage after they have been tightened down.

Note: I did have this whole mounting plate break off on a less than graceful landing. It's so common with aerobatic planes this size that I don't fault Fliton for this, they have to build them as light as possible or they won't sell. Add the extra couple grams and reinforce this with some 3/8" tri stock.
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Old Oct 11, 2006, 01:03 PM
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Assembly thread - Part 5

Now for the motor mount, you won't believe how easy this is.

The manual describes this very well, so I don't feel there is a need to go into detail. Honestly, there isn't a whole lot of detail that needs to be filled in here.

-Lay out the parts
-Dry fit to the firewall
-Epoxy into place
-Baddabing baddaboom
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Old Oct 14, 2006, 09:51 PM
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Assembly thread - Part 6

Now on to the canopy and cowl mounting

-Rough trim the canopy so that it can be placed on the hatch.
-Mark out edges when the final trimming is to be done, cut out the extra material.
-Now place it back on the plane and hold it down with some tape.
-Drill the pilot holes for the mounting screws, but don't drill into the wood.
-Install the screws and it's done. Almost too easy, and no glue *sweet*

-Cut out the hole in the chin of the cowl with your Dremel, it looks so great with this hole cut out.
-Pre-drill the cowl 1/4" from it's rear edge.
-Mount the cowl so that the prop adaptor is centered in the nose, and the prop mounting plate is far enough forward to allow the prop to clear the cowl.
-Install the six mounting screws.
-Remove the cowl and put a drop of thin CA into each of these holes. This step will harden the threads in the wood to better hold on to the cowl.
-After the CA has dried, reinstall the cowl.

Note: You can optionally tape over the large hole in the bottom of the cowl. I like my exhaust holes to be larger than the air inlet holes to promote airflow through the fuselage as opposed to air pressure in the fuselage.
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Old Oct 14, 2006, 10:05 PM
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Assembly thread - Part 7

Magnet mounting the hatch

The manual gives you the option to use a magnet to hold the hatch closed.
Honestly, please, this is such an easy thing to do. You will not be sorry you did this, it makes life at the field much easier when you're not constantly removing and installing the two screws that would fasten the hatch otherwise.

What you'll need....
1 small hacksaw blade, preferably an old, nasty worn one.
2 a decent rare earth magnet
3 Dremel tool
4 epoxy
5 alcohol or acetone

Here we go....
-Grind the teeth off of the hacksaw blade and cut it to length to fit into the fuselage as shown in the photo below.
-Clean the blade and epoxy it into place. Make sure you reinforce this area with a bit of extra epoxy. The magnet is strong enough to possibly damage this area, mine broke after about half a dozen hatch removals.
-Drill a hole (Dremel or Forsner bit) in the hatch to fit the magnet. This is a really good, strong section of the hatch that lends itself well to this purpose. Make sure the magnet is proud of the surface by about 1/32"-1/16" so that it comes very close to the hacksaw blade when the hatch is installed. This way they come into contact with a little flexing of the blade and the hatch will be held securely while still being easy to remove.
-Clean the magnet and epoxy it into place.

How easy was that? Piece of cake, and it's made this a very convenient plane with live with at the field.
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Old Oct 14, 2006, 10:15 PM
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Assembly thread done

There you go, a completed Fliton Inspire Mini.

Wingspan - 39.37"
Length - 41.22"
Wing Area - 309in2
Servos - Hitec HS-56HB all around
Motor - Axi 2212/26 and 2808/24
ESC - Castle Creations Phoenix 25
Battery - Fliton 1800mAh lipo.

AUW with 2212/26 - 24.3oz
AUW with 2808/24 - 25.8oz
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Old Oct 15, 2006, 04:45 PM
Nick Radle
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That's not a bad AUW, but I am still hoping for 24 ounces or less with an A30-28 and apogee 20C 1500's. What receiver did you use? I will be going with the 05S...
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Old Oct 15, 2006, 05:46 PM
Electric Coolhunter
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Thanks for the build thread.

I won one of these in the big raffle at BEST 2006 in Texas last week......am looking forward to building it.
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Old Oct 15, 2006, 07:53 PM
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BW, the receiver is a micro, caseless, Ikarus type 6ch. Not a heavyweight at all. The AUW listed for both motors is with this rx.
Your Hacker motor is only 1/2oz heavier than the little Axi 2212/26, and your Apogee 1500's will be lighter. The Fliton 1800 pack that I weighed with my plane weighs exactly the same as my Apogee 2200 (20C) pack.
Soooo, you could make your weight, but if not you'll be close. Make sure you use light servo extensions for the tail servos, that's one area where you can impact the AUW of your Inspire Mini.

Thomas,
Congrats of winning you plane man, that's fantastic!!
Just message me if you have any questions at all.

Side note, I fitted an Axi 2808/24 no problem. There is a small bit on the bottom of the mount that needs some grinding but it's really a piece of cake.

Regards
Dan
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Old Oct 16, 2006, 11:11 AM
Nick Radle
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Yeah, I got the micro extensions and will be soldering them to the existing leads to save weight. The Apogee weighs a verified 4.25 ounces.
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Old Oct 16, 2006, 01:20 PM
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I think you'll be OK for making your weight.
The Fliton 1800mAh pack and the Apogee 2200mAh pack are both 174g (6.1oz).

If you can relocate your receiver to the fuselage side wall, you'll have room to move your pack all the way back to balance the plane for 3D. I just took a shortcut and added 1/2oz to the tail of the plane, so there's room to save that bit of weight too.

Regards
Dan
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Old Oct 16, 2006, 03:45 PM
Nick Radle
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WOW! Those are heavy batteries, and to come at that weight WITH lead - yeah, I see sub 24 being doable. Thanks for the build thread! Now we just need a flight report and maybe some video!
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Old Oct 16, 2006, 05:46 PM
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Yep, the flight reports and video are coming this weekend.
I'm finishing the RCGroups review as we speak.

Just wait 'till you knife-edge with this plane. It pulls towards the gear a wee bit, but it'll go all day on its side.

Regards
Dan
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