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Old Nov 09, 2012, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Santley View Post
Seriously, the wife has a needle oiler she uses on her sewing machine. Is that something like you are talking about?
Yes, that is what I use. Tri-flow makes one in a 3/4oz (1oz?) size and it has a nice, long needle applicator to get into tight spaces. The needle size is perfect for getting individual drops so the lube doesn't flow all over the place if you squeeze too hard. It's also refillable.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 04:13 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
Triflow or Rem-oil or CLP
+1 on the Tri-Flow. It's my favorite lube for these small bearings, gears, ball-links, and sliding parts.

Joel
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 08:12 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Originally Posted by KevinBuckley70 View Post
Given that it's less than a month old & had this 'fault' out of the box, I'm inclined to just take it back to the shop! Although I have to say, my experience of customer service from this hobby is not great.

Has anyone tried using these kinds of lubrication products on heli. bearings (I use this on my mountain bike): http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/25854_1_SuperSize.jpg
One of my 130's I got from my LHS had issues.
I called HH, and they fixed it for free.
No harm in trying. They may even give you a new one if it's worth replacing it than hours of labor.
My friend's 300X was replaced ( no charge) after he crashed it during extreme 3d flying. Main shaft broke in half (where lock goes through), mid air!
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 12:29 AM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Any suggestion of an aftermarket metal tail case and why would it be better(?) than the other manufacturer.
Or the stock plastic is just as good?
Thanks...
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 02:01 AM
Team Thrasher
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United States, IN, Valparaiso
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can't wait till christmas, will be getting one of these amazing little heli's!
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 03:09 AM
Corsair Captain
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Any suggestion of an aftermarket metal tail case and why would it be better(?) than the other manufacturer.
Or the stock plastic is just as good?
Thanks...
I personally have been fine with stock tail components besides the A gear. I do sloppy tic tocks and such.
Garry K.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 07:44 AM
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Australia
Joined May 2008
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update

Left swash servo stopped working on the headshaking heli today. Maybe the problem from new. All other 3 helis have had far more flights and no head shake, wobbles. Hoping new servo will be the cure.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Any suggestion of an aftermarket metal tail case and why would it be better(?) than the other manufacturer.
Or the stock plastic is just as good?
Thanks...
Of all the components that could use upgrading on the tail, the tail case/box is one part that's fine as stock. Not much to go wrong with it, really. No moving parts.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:40 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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OK, I won't waste my money on tail case then.
I flew both my 130X today. They are actually pretty much close to zero vibration.
Very minimal (if that) on spool up. Hardly noticeable.
One has MH tail hub/shaft, while the other is a stock tail hub/shaft.
I had few occasions of unintendd pirouetting during mid-flight & inverted flights. Luckily no crashes loosing the tail a few times.
Found out that the tail servo was "intermittent". The DeOxit worked a few times when the tail servo started to go bad in the past. BUT when I opened up today after I got home, inside was full of gunk (DeOxit residue). I am going back to rubbing alcohol fix which actually worked much better for me.

Thanks guys...



Quote:
Originally Posted by crvnation View Post
Of all the components that could use upgrading on the tail, the tail case/box is one part that's fine as stock. Not much to go wrong with it, really. No moving parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by garryk View Post
I personally have been fine with stock tail components besides the A gear. I do sloppy tic tocks and such.
Garry K.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 01:48 AM
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USA, CA, San Francisco
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Installed the HP08S in my 130X. I tested it the first time just hovering and it seemed ok after re-binding. Took it to the park and I could barely keep it off the ground for the first 30 seconds - just kept pitching on its own. Had a couple of soft blade strikes on rough landings with throttle cut, no big deal. Now, the motor will run for a few seconds and then shut off. I hit the switch, it spins up, runs for maybe 5 seconds and then just quits. I've tried changing my throttle curve to 60%, and it still shuts off.

I simply installed the motor, I didn't do any other mods. Am I missing something?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:18 AM
Inverted Airfield
Iowa
Joined Nov 2009
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Check your gear mesh. If the mesh is too tight, then it could be drawing too much current and going into LVC prematurely. It is also possible that your motor draws too much current, even when working properly-this was the case with my MCPx. I fixed it by running two batteries in parallel. I'm not sure how you should fix yours, if this is the case? If I were you, I would check the mesh, check your pitch, and verify that your pitch is set to 0DEG at center stick. Worst case senario, if everything checks out, reinstall the stock motor and see if that fixes it.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:35 AM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Luckily no crashes loosing the tail a few times.
Found out that the tail servo was "intermittent". The DeOxit worked a few times when the tail servo started to go bad in the past. BUT when I opened up today after I got home, inside was full of gunk (DeOxit residue). I am going back to rubbing alcohol fix which actually worked much better for me.

Thanks guys...
Same experience here. If the alcohol doesn't work, try using a soft eraser (usually white in color) on the contact patches (carbon and metal patches underneath the servo mechanics housing) to remove the oxidation and residue, and then use rubbing alcohol to finish cleaning. I tried alcohol alone, but it wasn't working. I used the eraser, and it managed to take the caked on stuff off. The servo seems steady now.

I wouldn't use a regular (red) eraser, though - might take off too much carbon.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Don't rub the carbon strip at ALL with ANY eraser. You do not want to remove any of it. If it makes you feel better, a light swipe with a Q-tip (watch for fibers left behind) and some rubbing alcohol is all you need.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Oxfordshire, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinBuckley70 View Post
Given that it's less than a month old & had this 'fault' out of the box, I'm inclined to just take it back to the shop! Although I have to say, my experience of customer service from this hobby is not great.

Has anyone tried using these kinds of lubrication products on heli. bearings (I use this on my mountain bike): http://www.tredz.co.uk/prodimg/25854_1_SuperSize.jpg
Lub'd all the bearings on the 130x with the above Teflon/PTFE-based product (as the LHS didn't have any Tri-flow) & the screechy noise has gone away. I didn't do it one bearing at a time as it seemed that would increase the chance of breaking/losing something everytime I dismantled bits of it. It now sounds very smooth & flies just fine.

One hint for those as dumb as I am: if you remove the swash plate servo links, make sure you put them back the right way around otherwise the kinked bit catches on the canopy mount which makes trying to fly quite interesting ...

Annoyingly though (off-topic) I am finding my new (5 month old) Spektrum DX8 NiMH battery lasts less than an hour after being fully charged. Is that normal? I suspect not.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinBuckley70 View Post
Annoyingly though (off-topic) I am finding my new (5 month old) Spektrum DX8 NiMH battery lasts less than an hour after being fully charged. Is that normal? I suspect not.
No, that's not normal. It should last much longer than an hour on a full charge. If I were you, I'd ditch the crappy, low capacity stock battery altogether and go lipo. The TX is designed for it and has a lipo setting to change the voltage reading scale. You can use the ridiculously expensive ($70) Spektrum lipo or go for the much less expensive Turnigy lipo. Lots of people like the Turnigy. I charge my TX maybe once a month and I do a good bit of flying.
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