HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jul 21, 2014, 09:48 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
8,869 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dteel View Post
Funny that you should mention that as they always talk about software changes as performance improvements but honestly that's so vague as to be useless. If I were a software designer (took some programming in engineering college) then performance to me would be, stability of the program, fault tolerance, reduction in system requirements, etc. The actual flight characteristics are up to a different engineering team.

So I would say given that the heli has the same motors, head, swash and other physical characteristics that affect flight behavior then I'd speculate that the software changes had little or no impact on flight characteristics. The stiffer landing gear and frame may make the heli more damage resistant but have negligible impact on flight.

I too have the green heli and I didnít notice any flight differences until I added the fisheye swash and carbon fiber shaft. It seems a bit more precise is the only attribute I will render on those specific mods.
you should try a carbon fiber flybar ...
erdnuckel2 is online now Find More Posts by erdnuckel2
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: 2014
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Yesterday, 04:22 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2014
21 Posts
v911-pro modding getting out of hand

Well, after many tries I finally managed to create stable, flybarless v911-pro.
Why? After I mastered v911 I needed something faster and more agile, to learn good muscle memory - just before going to CP.
Buying another FP heli was not an option.




Words cannot describe how well it flies. Just see for yourself.
v911-pro flybarless (barless) mod indoors (0 min 45 sec)


v911-pro flybarless (barless) mod indoors. (1 min 9 sec)





Mind the crappy landing though


And yes, it's so sensitive that now it's actually possible to do a full loop or roll without crashing (!)

Outdoors it flies like nothing before

I wonder how it's going to perform after I install carbon fiber shaft and better pinion . . . more goodies to come soon.
lvlthn is offline Find More Posts by lvlthn
Last edited by lvlthn; Yesterday at 04:36 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 10:14 AM
Sir Crashalot
stonecutter's Avatar
Joined Oct 2011
2,211 Posts
Congratulations on a great mod, looks like you glued the mixer arms to the blades ?
stonecutter is online now Find More Posts by stonecutter
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 11:23 AM
Still crashing everything!
dteel's Avatar
United States, CA, El Cajon
Joined Mar 2014
307 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
Well, I did not really know, in which thread to post my video, so I will just post an invitation in both ...

I did (YET) another paint job on the V955 - I used a HFP80 [bb]V2[/b] canopy and painted it "to go with my yellow V955".
And truly accidentally I found out something else as well:

As the HFP80 V2 canopy is not only nicer (IMMHO) but also slightly bigger than the V1 canopy, it also ...

... well, you'll see in the video!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=291
Pretty yellow heli. I think I'd go for bumble bee stripes with those colors though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
you should try a carbon fiber flybar ...
Or like Ivlthn did below? I'm not flying my V911s as much as I used to. They are fun to play with but I think I've learned about as much as I can flying them (other than orientation practice) and they encourage stick movement that is counterproductive for flybarless or CP helis. So no I'm not looking to improve the performance of my V911s at all at this point. I did consider modifying some of my spare balance bars to reduce the end weights but never bothered. I'm also not spending as much time flying my V912 or V913 for similar reasons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lvlthn View Post
Well, after many tries I finally managed to create stable, flybarless v911-pro.
Why? After I mastered v911 I needed something faster and more agile, to learn good muscle memory - just before going to CP.
Buying another FP heli was not an option.




Words cannot describe how well it flies. Just see for yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sa_z...URfoJFhskWLQpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LS6-...URfoJFhskWLQpg




Mind the crappy landing though


And yes, it's so sensitive that now it's actually possible to do a full loop or roll without crashing (!)

Outdoors it flies like nothing before

I wonder how it's going to perform after I install carbon fiber shaft and better pinion . . . more goodies to come soon.
I would have never even thought to try this, very impressive. So almost everyone else is just trying to figure out how much weight to remove from the flybar and you decided to just do away with it all together. I have three of these little V911s and you may have just nudged me into action again. So if you don't need a flybar then where to attach the linkage to the rotor blades should be more or less optional? Wonder how moving the ball joint attachment point would affect handling?

Well done I say, although your flight videos show a large degree of agility, I wonder about stability. The only real attempt at stable hovering (my guess) was just prior to the landing. Mine always throw themselves off the edge of a landng area upon touchdown as well; it must be a micro heli thing. I'm pretty sure the command entered by the pilot was you're down, now hold still!!!
dteel is online now Find More Posts by dteel
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 11:45 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2014
21 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
Congratulations on a great mod, looks like you glued the mixer arms to the blades ?
Yes. It is the key to direct blade movement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dteel View Post
So if you don't need a flybar then where to attach the linkage to the rotor blades should be more or less optional? Wonder how moving the ball joint attachment point would affect handling?
Now that's the very hard part. You have to position joint ball precisely in middle of blade(when cut horizontally) and it has be postioned slight behind white pin.
Slight deviation of ball might result in uncontrolled TBE.
To be honest it has to be so precise that even 0,1mm makes huge difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dteel View Post
Well done I say, although your flight videos show a large degree of agility, I wonder about stability. The only real attempt at stable hovering (my guess) was just prior to the landing. Mine always throw themselves off the edge of a landng area upon touchdown as well; it must be a micro heli thing. I'm pretty sure the command entered by the pilot was you're down, now hold still!!!
Well it's stable as long as you don't change cyclic and/or add throttle
After that it behaves almost like a CP. Stock TX works ok, but I feel I need to make my own sensivity ranges.

I found that removing weight from rotating parts add extra torque and even flight time. The drawback is it's becoming too light. It actually now jumps happily before landing.


Also, for anyone having trouble with barless v911-pro, the secret is precise blade balancing. Less rotational weight means even slight imbalance(0.05-0.1g!) causes violent TBE and crashes.

It's hard to do, lots of trial and error, but man, the result is just worth it.

When I get clear weather I'll record v911 doing flips - for the first time ever Might even send vid to WL guys just to show them how awesome this heli is.
lvlthn is offline Find More Posts by lvlthn
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 03:19 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
8,869 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvlthn View Post
Yes. It is the key to direct blade movement.


Now that's the very hard part. You have to position joint ball precisely in middle of blade(when cut horizontally) and it has be postioned slight behind white pin.
Slight deviation of ball might result in uncontrolled TBE.
To be honest it has to be so precise that even 0,1mm makes huge difference.


Well it's stable as long as you don't change cyclic and/or add throttle
After that it behaves almost like a CP. Stock TX works ok, but I feel I need to make my own sensivity ranges.

I found that removing weight from rotating parts add extra torque and even flight time. The drawback is it's becoming too light. It actually now jumps happily before landing.


Also, for anyone having trouble with barless v911-pro, the secret is precise blade balancing. Less rotational weight means even slight imbalance(0.05-0.1g!) causes violent TBE and crashes.

It's hard to do, lots of trial and error, but man, the result is just worth it.

When I get clear weather I'll record v911 doing flips - for the first time ever Might even send vid to WL guys just to show them how awesome this heli is.
0.05-0.1g is not a "slight" imbalance, in particular not on a blade that weights about 1g. Years ago, when I sold blades, I made sure that no pair was more than 0.03g apart ... but the blades weighed about 6g!!!
erdnuckel2 is online now Find More Posts by erdnuckel2
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: 2014
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 03:39 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2014
16 Posts
Hi, I've joined te V911 family, coming from a Syma S107. I've ordered from banggood a V911-1 with the new radio, a V911-1 BNF and all kind of spares for them plus 5 lipos. Yesterday I've received everything but I've noticed that one of the 911 has a tail motor with some resistance if I turn it with my fingers compared to the other, and instead of what is written on the site the batteries with the rtf where 200 mAh lipos instead of 120 as written on the specs. I've tried the help at home where I used to fly the S107 and I was barely able to take off, and it was pretty unstable and with a very hard backward movement I think due to the weight of the 200 mAh LiPo. This morning I've tried it in my garden to try to trim it with a little more space, but I've lost control and the heli has crashed against a plant, i've continued flying but at the end I've seen probably a hole in the battery and near the hole a strange smell. Now for what I've read about lipos I think that is gone... (At first flight... Lucky...) Someone had similar experiences?
Highlander88 is offline Find More Posts by Highlander88
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 04:13 PM
Still crashing everything!
dteel's Avatar
United States, CA, El Cajon
Joined Mar 2014
307 Posts
Welcome Highlander to the world of V911s.

Similar experiences, with crashing (at least I hope that's what you meant). It was a long time (weeks) before I developed the skill necessary to hover the V911 without crashing almost immediately. I would run indoors and brag to my wife I hovered for 5 seconds before crashing! After couple of weeks I was bragging that I only crashed 5 times in the entire battery! So proud of my accomplishment!

If your battery has a hole in it then I'd discard it.

As for the backward movement on takeoff, that is normal for a single rotor fixed pitch heli. It's an effect caused by the torque of the main motor and ground effect. Most people say it moves to the left and back. If you're not having problems with it moving to the left then you've already started to correct during takeoff without even realizing it. With practice you'll be able to counter the backward movement as well.

What I found that helped me the most was to follow this process.

1) Get to a wind free environment where you have a bit of room a double car garage or basement will work.
2) Balance your heli as best you can and ensure the linkage is in good shape and properly connected.
3) Get your heli into a hover at least 2 foot off the ground with as little movement as possible (above the ground effect)
4) Now let go of the control sticks figure out which way it drifts (except yaw)
5) Using the appropriate ball link adjust the length of the rod to counter the drift.

Going into some detail here on how I did this... Let's us assume your heli drifts back. So what I do is watching the control arms I move the stick forward (the direction necessary to counter the drift) if the control arm moves up then I know that the arm needs to be lengthened to counter the backward drift. If the control arm moves down then the control arm needs to be shortened. Adjust the control arm by poping it loose from the ball joint and turning it as necessary. The adjustments are fine so it may take several turns to correct drift depending on how bad it is. I did this to correct for both side to side and forward and back drift. I got these adjustments as close to a perfect hover as I could without using the Tx electronic trim (other than for yaw as there is no mechanical adjustment for that). Note that as you adjust one on the swash then the other will be affected as well so it may take some back and forth to get it right.

This single process has improved the fly-ability of my V911 more than any other single thing. What it accomplishes is that you can just let go of the controls and have some confidence that your heli will fly on uninterrupted. Given time and no obstructions it will achieve a stable hover on its own by doing nothing more than letting go of the controls. Well you have to watch the throttle unless you're going for an Icarus moment.

Some issues you may encounter is TBE (Toilet Bowl Effect). This can be caused by several things but on the stock V911 the most common cause is a burr on the balance bar or over tightening the flybar retaining screw. When flicked it should bounce up and down freely.

One of the tricks I learned was to quit trying to take off gently. I had better luck with launching my V911 a couple of feet in the air and then attempt to gain control of where ever it was. This had a couple of benefits, a good percentage of my wrecks were the heli just tipping over. That doesn't happen in when you're 2 foot in the air. Secondly no more ground effect.

Hope my tips have helped you some.
dteel is online now Find More Posts by dteel
Last edited by dteel; Yesterday at 04:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 05:02 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2014
16 Posts
Thank you for the answer, with lucky I mean destroying a lipo at first flight. I'll follow your advices, I had already put in account to make a mechanical trim because with two helis I'll going crazy by changing the trims every time I change heli. Now the main difficulty that I have is using the mode 2 because the S107 was a 3 channel and more similar to mode 4. I could change mode but I want to learn to fly with mode 2... Tomorrow I will try it again and let you know
Highlander88 is offline Find More Posts by Highlander88
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 05:12 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
Heli Pad's Avatar
Joined Aug 2011
6,162 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highlander88 View Post
I could change mode but I want to learn to fly with mode 2... Tomorrow I will try it again and let you know
That's the spirit! You made a good decision. Keep at it.
Heli Pad is offline Find More Posts by Heli Pad
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Product Jiuchon 9C002, a Solo Pro clone? SoloProFan Micro Helis 103 Feb 29, 2012 02:24 PM
Discussion Interesting Solo Pro? Clone gordonzo Micro Helis 46 Nov 30, 2011 03:15 AM
Question Which 100 sized heli after Solo Pro? Tuc Micro Helis 16 Jun 13, 2011 01:52 PM
Sold $100 !NEW ARF Storm 250 (Trex Clone) With Align Upgrades, Tons of Extras! $100!! RChelisrule Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 1 May 31, 2011 12:26 AM