I know some have seen this before but here it is again ...

50mm T45
2610 Turnigy 5000kv
50mm 6blade fan in stock shroud
50A ESC
4S 1600 LiPo

Cheap set-up but boy does she motor on it .... I love the sound of that 5000 on song ....

T45 50mm 4S 1600 21-09-12 (4 min 58 sec)

Wondering where to go next to get even more speed / power out of her ... she's at over 700grams thrust with above ..... so it will need serious modification to improve on that ....

Nigel

Originally Posted by solentlife

I know some have seen this before but here it is again ...

50mm T45
2610 Turnigy 5000kv
50mm 6blade fan in stock shroud
50A ESC
4S 1600 LiPo

Cheap set-up but boy does she motor on it .... I love the sound of that 5000 on song ....



Wondering where to go next to get even more speed / power out of her ... she's at over 700grams thrust with above ..... so it will need serious modification to improve on that ....

Nigel

how do you fit the 6 blade rotor on that motor shaft?
you use an adapter for it ??? How?

thx

you have to drill the hole a little, then it threads onto the shaft

Our complete article on the Katana and Screamer is now up over on HDFlyer.com

That was really nice Video Jon. You guys always do great work. Thanks !!

We now have the 4s setups too. 337 Watts.

Originally Posted by flylow2011

how do you fit the 6 blade rotor on that motor shaft?
you use an adapter for it ??? How?

thx

The shaft is M3 threaded ... so you ream the rotor shaft hole to just UNDER a M3 thread tap size ... you then use the thread tap to cut the M3 thread into the rotor hub. I put 3 good fit washers on shaft as spacers before screwing the rotor on. This prevents the hub from grounding on the shroud mount area and motor screws.

The direction of rotation tightens the rotor onto the shaft so i don't even need a locking nut or anything else.

It was purely by accident I found this worked !!

But please use a tapered reamer ... do not drill out the rotor hub. Because of the taper - I reamed from BOTH sides so that thread tap wasn't going to split the hub.

easy peasy ...

nigel

Jon,

Site and articles are great ! How do you keep your Katana looking so nice? Mine scratches up very easily and now looks like I've been landing her in a gravel pit. I even mini-waxed it.

Originally Posted by dahawk47

How not to fly the Katana
[

http://youtu.be/7oWD027uBpE

Not off to a good start on this one. Low thrust though I had a new 4S 850mah Nano this time. Also seemed tail heavy. I had the battery against the firewall and the RX out in front . I'll try moving the lipo forward. The 4800kv Don's setup should be fine but I still wonder why there are only 4 blades to the fan.

It was the launch that doomed that flight....but the battery is way too small as well but I see that you changed that later on... The smallest that can be used is the 4s 40c 1000mah packs. But you really should use bigger than that....

Originally Posted by dahawk47

Well,

Gave the Katana another go today after yesterday's debacle. Good news to report but unfortunately, there was no-one to run my i-phone camera.

Installed the 1000mah 4S nano , moved it forward and mounted the rx upright along the firewall. Balanced much better and made a world of difference. Launched her underhanded with less AOA this time. Perfect. Only had a couple clicks of down and she trimmed-out nicely. Flew on high rates and she's still a little too twitchy for my liking but will add-in a little more aileron expo. Was gusty today.

Overall, IMO , the Katana is an easy flier not much unlike the T-45 and even the Phase 3 F-16 which flies on rails. Probably not going to set any speed records but that's okay with me. When I want speed, I pull out my Rare Bear. She's very maneuverable with the rudder but I haven't tried anything crazy yet. Not sure if she will flat spin.

On the QC site, the paint job is awful. Flakes off way too easily.

The 4800kv Don's set up is a very good option for this plane given the fact that you need a decent 4S lipo of at least 1000mah. Had my doubts initially but I can now highly recommend. The little 850 4S Nano cube doesn't cut mustard IMO. She needs and deserves a decent 4S battery.

If the weather holds I will give her another go tomorrow and try to get some footage.

I'm a happy camper again!

-Hawk

Glad you got it going!! I love mine as well and need to do a quick vid of mine as well. It has about 400watts of power and really flies nice! It isn't super wicked fast but it is powerful and flies so smooth!! And I haven't even hooked up the rudder servo yet...LOL

Originally Posted by solentlife

I know some have seen this before but here it is again ...

50mm T45
2610 Turnigy 5000kv
50mm 6blade fan in stock shroud
50A ESC
4S 1600 LiPo

Cheap set-up but boy does she motor on it .... I love the sound of that 5000 on song ....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3nyh...9&feature=plcp

Wondering where to go next to get even more speed / power out of her ... she's at over 700grams thrust with above ..... so it will need serious modification to improve on that ....

Nigel

Now that sounds like my T-45 does with a fresh battery!! It flies great in spite of that super huge heavy pack!

Originally Posted by dahawk47

Jon,

Site and articles are great ! How do you keep your Katana looking so nice? Mine scratches up very easily and now looks like I've been landing her in a gravel pit. I even mini-waxed it.

My issue with the Katana is the decals...they flack off really easily... But the flying characteristics make up for it all...it is one of the best flying 50mm planes in this series!!

Now that I have some extra fundage coming....I will be getting about 4 different set ups to try out in these little jets. I will be getting a Screamer and another F/A-18 airframe to try out the new fans. I am really wanting to get this 50mm 10 blade fan in there.... Lots to come!!!

Originally Posted by dahawk47

On the QC site, the paint job is awful. Flakes off way too easily.
-Hawk

That seems to be the case with all of them. On some of mine, the decals flake off if you look at them the wrong way, others are durable is heck. My Katana seems to be quite good, where my parts of my F-16 decals flake off with every flight. I've learned to be real good with touch up paint.

Originally Posted by solentlife

The shaft is M3 threaded ...
It was purely by accident I found this worked !!
...
easy peasy ...

now would you believe it most people find out (by accident or otherwise) how to get a plastic rotor with a 2mm to fit a threaded 3mm shaft - by enlarging the hole :-)

joking aside, I think the question was rather how to fit the 6-blade rotor to a Turnigy 2610 motor which has a 3mm - non-threaded - shaft. That is the motor you state you are using, not the stocker. I guess it has been asked before but I don't remember the answer...

cheers
Clemens

Originally Posted by mopetista

now would you believe it most people find out (by accident or otherwise) how to get a plastic rotor with a 2mm to fit a threaded 3mm shaft - by enlarging the hole :-)

joking aside, I think the question was rather how to fit the 6-blade rotor to a Turnigy 2610 motor which has a 3mm - non-threaded - shaft. That is the motor you state you are using, not the stocker. I guess it has been asked before but I don't remember the answer...

cheers
Clemens

The turnigy 2610 motor comes with both 2.3mm and 3mm shafts. So I'm guessing he used the 2.3mm and that's why he had to ream out the hole to fit the shaft.

nigel , i like the canopy latch you have on the t-45, any tips on how you did that ? i'm tired of usng a rubber band to hold the canopy on

This is what we do on the weekend. You can see some 50mm in there. I am the one that does a roll and almost hits a Stinger.

http://www.photoshop.com/users/Tripl...c1a3652cf2150b

Originally Posted by Mike20

The turnigy 2610 motor comes with both 2.3mm and 3mm shafts. So I'm guessing he used the 2.3mm and that's why he had to ream out the hole to fit the shaft.

this get funnier by the post.......... the above still doesn't address how the rotor is held on the shaft, 2.3 or 3mm.

Originally Posted by chas650r

this get funnier by the post.......... the above still doesn't address how the rotor is held on the shaft, 2.3 or 3mm.

here

The shaft is M3 threaded ... so you ream the rotor shaft hole to just UNDER a M3 thread tap size ... you then use the thread tap to cut the M3 thread into the rotor hub. I put 3 good fit washers on shaft as spacers before screwing the rotor on. This prevents the hub from grounding on the shroud mount area and motor screws.

The direction of rotation tightens the rotor onto the shaft so i don't even need a locking nut or anything else.

It was purely by accident I found this worked !!

But please use a tapered reamer ... do not drill out the rotor hub. Because of the taper - I reamed from BOTH sides so that thread tap wasn't going to split the hub.

easy peasy ...

nigel