Originally Posted by Bluhammer

I cut a hole below the motor down into the air scoop area and feed the motor wires down through and back to my ESC.
Blu

I did the same thing.
I just cut the hole as I installed the motor. (it went better on one side).

Originally Posted by aerotony

I notice that world Hobbies in Australia stock the Elapor Primer but no spray paints are listed.

Changing the subject slightly I also note that they seem to stock two sizes of EPP wheels for the Fun Cub, 45mm and 120 mm.
Tony

Now that I have received my Fun Cub kit I can answer my own comment regarding the wheels.
The larger wheels are for the main landing gear and the smaller wheels for the tail but I still wonder why my kit has two tailwheels in the box.

Not that I am complaining since a spare wheel is always useful as a spare and I would not have been pleased if the kit contained one wheel fewer than it should have had, rather than one wheel more, but it still seems strange.
Tony

Originally Posted by marksp

Did you do this before or after joining the fuselage? Thanks

I did it after, to the right side. It would have been easier to do before hand. I also CAed all around the hole to strengthen it up. Have fun, it's a very fun plane.
Blu

Flew four packs through my fun cub with the xoar 10x5 prop. After recharging, on paper at least, I can potentially fly 17 minute flights using 80% of the lipo. I'll set it for 15 next time I go fly.

So I got the Fun Cub in June, 30 plus flights since and it definately lives up to the name
Unfortunately it fles so well I start doing stupid s@#t. So I'm flying through goal post and doing tight figure eights when...yes you guessed it...missed judged the turn and clipped the light pole. Damage from pole wasn't too bad, but the Uncontrolled contact with the ground was less forgiving
So I walk over and tail is cracked through 80%+ and the front is broken at the windshield down both sides to the floor. Probably would have come off but I had put a 3/16 birch floorboard/stiffener to cover the electronics. It cracked too but held. I highly recommend either building one or order the stiffener Gary makes.
Sheared motor shaft...oh yea that was the maiden for the motor too again...

But not to fear, she will fly again. I just reglued the tail with gorilla glue. I'll let it dry over night and glue the nose tomorrow.
Just goes to show how tuff she really is.
Jimmy

Luckally I have a NIB Fun Cub that I will start on as soon as I can "Crash" up in the air again

Originally Posted by Rescuejim

So I got the Fun Cub in June, 30 plus flights since and it definately lives up to the name
Unfortunately it fles so well I start doing stupid s@#t. So I'm flying through goal post and doing tight figure eights when...yes you guessed it...missed judged the turn and clipped the light pole. Damage from pole wasn't too bad, but the Uncontrolled contact with the ground was less forgiving
So I walk over and tail is cracked through 80%+ and the front is broken at the windshield down both sides to the floor. Probably would have come off but I had put a 3/16 birch floorboard/stiffener to cover the electronics. It cracked too but held. I highly recommend either building one or order the stiffener Gary makes.
Sheared motor shaft...oh yea that was the maiden for the motor too again...

But not to fear, she will fly again. I just reglued the tail with gorilla glue. I'll let it dry over night and glue the nose tomorrow.
Just goes to show how tuff she really is.
Jimmy

Luckally I have a NIB Fun Cub that I will start on as soon as I can "Crash" up in the air again

Foam planes never die, they just get to heavy from all the repairs.

Originally Posted by Rescuejim

So I got the Fun Cub in June, 30 plus flights since and it definately lives up to the name
Unfortunately it fles so well I start doing stupid s@#t. So I'm flying through goal post and doing tight figure eights when...yes you guessed it...missed judged the turn and clipped the light pole. Damage from pole wasn't too bad, but the Uncontrolled contact with the ground was less forgiving
So I walk over and tail is cracked through 80%+ and the front is broken at the windshield down both sides to the floor. Probably would have come off but I had put a 3/16 birch floorboard/stiffener to cover the electronics. It cracked too but held. I highly recommend either building one or order the stiffener Gary makes.
Sheared motor shaft...oh yea that was the maiden for the motor too again...

But not to fear, she will fly again. I just reglued the tail with gorilla glue. I'll let it dry over night and glue the nose tomorrow.
Just goes to show how tuff she really is.
Jimmy

Luckally I have a NIB Fun Cub that I will start on as soon as I can "Crash" up in the air again

Sorry to hear of your temporary set back It shall rise again.

Thanks for the kind words!

Good luck with the rebuild.

Cheers!

Gary

Hello, I’m very interested in one of these fun cubs! I’m a 3DHS Junky and just a couple of weeks ago hade the pleasure of holding and watching there Prototype EPP Bigfoot. There was a guy flying a fun cub with Ben from 3DHS and the were having a ball slow flying and having contests who could drag one wheel the farthest down the run way. The prto is about a year away from production and I want to PLAY!!!!

So here is my Question for you all….. Are there and what are the best mods and setups for this plane? I want the plane to be as aerobatic as it can be! The thread is to long to try to look through. Anything on flaps? Stiffeners? Set ups?

Planning on making a purchase soon, Thanks Scoot.

Originally Posted by 3171scott

Hello, I’m very interested in one of these fun cubs! I’m a 3DHS Junky and just a couple of weeks ago hade the pleasure of holding and watching there Prototype EPP Bigfoot. There was a guy flying a fun cub with Ben from 3DHS and the were having a ball slow flying and having contests who could drag one wheel the farthest down the run way. The prto is about a year away from production and I want to PLAY!!!!

So here is my Question for you all….. Are there and what are the best mods and setups for this plane? I want the plane to be as aerobatic as it can be! The thread is to long to try to look through. Anything on flaps? Stiffeners? Set ups?

Planning on making a purchase soon, Thanks Scoot.

just make sure the control horns on the flaps point back. i accidentally set mine up facing forwards, and now i can't give it full flap, they just get stuck. also, the bigger the prop and the lower kv (within reason) the better it is for 3d-type stuff. I switched from a 1600kv motor and a 10" prop to a 800kv motor and a 12" prop, MASSIVE leap in hover/stol capabilities and has much better (unlimited) vertical now.

Originally Posted by baconflyer

just make sure the control horns on the flaps point back. i accidentally set mine up facing forwards, and now i can't give it full flap, they just get stuck. also, the bigger the prop and the lower kv (within reason) the better it is for 3d-type stuff. I switched from a 1600kv motor and a 10" prop to a 800kv motor and a 12" prop, MASSIVE leap in hover/stol capabilities and has much better (unlimited) vertical now.

I usually run hackers and Castle speeds I will do some research on a power combo. What is the plywood brace someone was talking about?

Originally Posted by 3171scott

What is the plywood brace someone was talking about?

http://morganmill.com/RC/FunCub_Parts.html

Originally Posted by marksp

http://morganmill.com/RC/FunCub_Parts.html

Thanks for the link!

Originally Posted by 3171scott

Thanks for the link!

One thing iv found helpful when doing 3d with the funcub is you need to stiffen the wing. as it seems to "smile" a bit on heavy pullouts. and my friend had his first funcubs wing separate from the plane doing a fast powered pullout lol. So you best bet is probably to put some struts on it to keep that wing flat. Another thing is your gonna want more aileron authority so you will want to bevel the bottom hinge line on the ailerons at more of an angle to get greater down aileron throw. Also your gonna want to do a few things to elevator and rudder to get more throw. this just invloves pivot placement at the control horns and servo arms. thats common sense. but yeah run a 3s combo with a motor of about 1100-1250kv with either a 12x6-12x8 or a 13x5. These are good setups. but the 13x5 prop will draw more amps... but you get crazy power.


well there is my 2 cents

-Colin

Originally Posted by marksp

When I recently pulled my Himax HC3516, I noticed the wire insulation had interfered with the spinning can. I'm replacing with the EMax GT2812/10 which is also a 35mm diameter motor.

Any motor wire routing tips/pictures to make certain of no interference?

Thanks

As Bluhammer did and a few others, I cut a slot through into the air intake channel, motor wires go straight into there and then back to ESC, no need to overstress the wire with a bend near its minimum bend radius and less likelyhood of wire fracture at some point.

Originally Posted by 3171scott

Thanks for the link!

If you want stupid power, get the engine that I'm running. It will basically do full speed strait up. I hover at around 1/3 throttle. Take offs in 5? inches, unlimited vertical (of course) and it will accelerate real fast from hover to vertical climb, you can get out of ANYTHING with this engine

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18122

It's a bit on the heavy side, so you need to reinforce your landing gear with another piano wire and you need the floor stiffener kit and engine mount (with the extra big optional mount that he sells). Even then it's a PITA to fit as the X-mount is so huge that you need to cut it on all 4 sides, make new holes in the X-mount and secure the screws at an angle, so it's a tight fit, but it is a BLAST once you get it all together.

And when I say NEED, I mean NEED. My stock plastic motor mounts broke in 2 mid air and the engine flew out :P Pics are some pages further back.

I'm running it on a 4S 2200 with a 13x6.5E prop.

I think it might be better/easier to build your own firewall by cutting off the front and putting a Super Cub cowling on it as it will be a VERY tight fit with all the foam. Mine was pretty messed up before I installed the floor kit (after the motor ejected) so the foam was not in my way. It might be better to cut off some foam with a knife and gluing it back on later as a way to get around it.