OK, I found this one. It looks to be the same as yours.

http://www.inzpan.com/Fw_190_Cockpit_p/600003.htm

It is the same. You have to email phil at fighterace.

Found out yesterday that because of the size, my Butcher Bird will be coming via triuck to the LHS, not by UPS.

It will be delayed a few days, but saving $84 on the shipping will be worth it.

The TW retract will be here today so I will probaly go over & pick it up tis evening.

BTW: Anyone that has already purchased the mechanical retract that wants to upgrade it for use W/the electric mains & control board, actuator is available seperately. http://www.robart.com/products/retra...rsion-actuator

All you need to do is mount it where the servo would be located & use the same pushrod set-up..

I'm going to run over later & P/U the TW retract.

I'll dismantle it & take some PIX of the actuator.

I'll post them later tonight.

Picked up my Wurger last nite.

Looks like the box got dropped pretty hard on one end. No obvious damage until I remove the fuselage from the box.






The box obviously hit pretty hard on the end, even though there was little to suggest that on the outside.




The cowl ring was also proken.


In can repair all of that, but why sould I? (unlesss they want to kick me back some significant $$$$) The firewall should have had some foam inset into the recess. That would have taken most of the impact istead of the thin plywood.

I am waiting for the hobby shop to e-mail me an invoice so I can e-mail it to Hobbico along W/the PIX.

I spoke to them over the phone already..

BTW: Here is the scheme I'm going with.

Pretty close to the TF theme. A little airbrush work ought to make for a pretty good depiction of this particular Wurger.



I can get the decals here.http://www.callie-graphics.com/airplanes.php

Between the TF graphics & the ones from Callie, I can make an accurate color/markings scheme.

Originally Posted by SrTelemaster

Picked up my Wurger last nite.

Looks like the box got dropped pretty hard on one end. No obvious damage until I remove the fuselage from the box.

I spoke to them over the phone already..

This just happened to me on their p-47 except it was the tail that was broke off yet I had NO damage to my box. It happened during packing I think.

Anyways I e-mailed them pics and a pic of the reciept and GP sent me out a new fuse which showed up about 3 days later. Adam over there was awesome and totally took care of me. I am sure you will be just fine.

Originally Posted by SmokeDogg

This just happened to me on their p-47 except it was the tail that was broke off yet I had NO damage to my box. It happened during packing I think.

Anyways I e-mailed them pics and a pic of the reciept and GP sent me out a new fuse which showed up about 3 days later. Adam over there was awesome and totally took care of me. I am sure you will be just fine.

They e-maied me yesterday that a new fuselage & cowl ring was being sent out "this week".

Did they want your broken fuselage back? I'm hoping that they don't want mine back. I can repair it & use it as a spare to experiment W/paint & such..

Nope they let me keep it

Originally Posted by SmokeDogg

Nope they let me keep it

Cool, I'll have a spare.

I've been tinkering with the FW off and on for the last few days and completed the wing and the aileron details. The weather has been crazy with the severe snow one minute and sunny skies and warm the next.

4th flight done this past weekend. Still needs more elevator throw on landing

video link

TF FW190 4th flight (4 min 35 sec)

Originally Posted by demire

Installing that robart retract was exactly why I went the route I did with the Sierras. They're scale and a hell of a lot easier to do!

Any idea how long the stroke of the aircylinder is? And the partnumer on the Sierra tailwheel retract?
Seems like a good solutions, but I will install electric on the mains and I would then like electric on all. A lado actuator should be good ;-)

Originally Posted by affas

Any idea how long the stroke of the aircylinder is? And the partnumer on the Sierra tailwheel retract?
Seems like a good solutions, but I will install electric on the mains and I would then like electric on all. A lado actuator should be good ;-)

It's not hard to instal the mechanical Robart TW retract & use the actuator mounted forward where the srevo would be located.

Then, you can use the Robart control board to sequence all 3 retracts.

I got some time in the hanger room before my 4 year old granddaughter arrived.

I managed to fabricate some new sidemounts that will anchor into the servo deck. These were made from .040" extrusions. That is the maximum thckness that will allow the unmodified OEM pivot bushings to be utilized.



The holes for the pivot busings are located 5/8" from the bottom & are .150" diameter. I took a 5/32" drill bit (.1563") & dressed it down to .150". If you have a #25 drill bit, that should be close enough. I had to dress the burrs from the hole on the brackets W/a file. Make sure that the bushings allow the cylinder to pivot freely W/the mount screws tightened down securely.

I made the brackets 1 1/2" long & located the holes .20" from the ends to allow the mount screws to engage near the center of 2" long 3/8" harwood blocks that I glued under the servo deck.


I located the cylinder @ a slight angle to the servos so that it will operate in a straight line W/the TW retract pushrod.

I haven't decided whether to make a bellcrank or a sliding guide to prevent torque from the rotating motor from being transmitted to the pushrod. I'm leaning towards a sliding guide.

There's ample room on the deck behind the servos for a slide guide.


I'm working on a simple sliding guide shoe right now & will finish it after breakfast.

The benefit of Sierra is good looking scale tailwheen, not another rc retract

I've finished my shoe & guide for the forward located electric actuator to operate the TW retract W/O torquing the pushrod.

Since this is a 1st prototype, changes were made along the way.

The 1st picture is is of the pieces I made from .040" extruded aluminum angle. .040" is about ideal. .030' would probably be OK but that would be minimum for strength & anything over .040 would be heavier than neccesary.


The guide plates (upper left) had the vertical leg reduced from .415 to .315. The .810 dimention was just the original extrusion dimension & that was about right so it was not altered. The vertical leg of the shoe doubler (middle right) was reduced from .490" to .360" to allow clearance for the actuator clevis. The finished shoe hieght is the same .810" as the extrusion.

The guide plate doublers (lower left) are sized so that when applied flush W/the outside edge of the guide plates, there will be clearance to allow the shoe foot ample clearance.

The final lengths for the guide was 1 1/2" & the shoe ended up @ 1".

Glue & clamp the shoe doubler to the shoe.


Since this part will be relying on the adhesive alone, it would be best to use something like JB Weld. Make sure the base legs are flush.

Glue & clamp the doublers to the guide plates.


The outer edges should be flush & there should be clearance for the shoe base leg to slide. Since these parts will be secured W/screws later, 5-miute epoxy would be OK.

Glue the completed guides to some .060" aluminum plate W/5-minute epoxy.


Use the shoe W/doubler to assure slide clearance. Do not use ecess epoxy. You do not want epoxy to squeeze into the slot for the shoe. Just use enough to secure the assembly until screws can be applied. Leave a ledge on @ least 1 end for ease of shoe insertion on the finished product.

Since this part will be worked W/power tools, (heat will be an issue) secure both sides of the guide plates W/4-40 screws. Sand the bottom of the screws flush on a disc/belt sander W/a fine grit disc/belt. Grind all edges flush except for a small ledge @ the end of the guide slot. Radius all corners.


The shoe should be worked by hand tools to prevent heat from affecting the glue bond. Radius all edges of the shoe & file the base thickness (if needed) to allow the shoe to slide freely. Place the file flat on a non-slip surface & work the shoe base across the file to evenly reduce the thickness of the shoe base as needed for a free sliding fit W/O excess clearance.

Drill a 5/64" hole in one end of the shoe for the clevis bolt & a 1/16" hole in the other end for a pushrod clevis. The guide plate should have 4 holes drilled for srews to anchor the plate to the servo deck.

Here are the finished shoe & guide plate along W/the actuator modified as described in the previous post.



Here is the entire assembly mocked up on the bench to show the straight line relationship.


On my fuselage, the distance from the deck to the TW retract pushrod is approximately 5/8" & all the dimensions reflect that value.

In the next post I will illustrate the installation in the fuselage.

The actuator & mount weigh 1.58oz, just .02oz more than a standard 60oz in servo. The shoe & guide W/screws weigh .71oz. This complete set-up weighs only .73oz more than a standard 60oz in servo.

Even if the TF Fw 190 A ARF would allow the actuator to be installed integral W/the TW retract, (it won't) the weight savings in the tail (1 6 oz) by this set-up would reduce any ballast needed in the nose substantially. The forward location is very near the CG so the nose ballat savings would be about 7oz.