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Old Oct 28, 2009, 03:44 PM   #31
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Sprinkle a little "pixie dust" on her and she will fly!!

Call it "Tinker Bell" Fairey Rotodyne......
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 04:44 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imsofaman View Post
Richie.....Got the motor and ESC all packed up nice and secure. I am holding on to the Thunder Tigre 52 as i have a new project for it in the near future. I just want to get her running correctly.

OK...jut wanted to give you "heads up".

Dave
Cheers Dave,
Super Tiger 52!..the carb has to be adjusted very carefully (especially the bottom end for a good pick up) when it is set correctly they are a very good powerful, reliable engine. Look forward to what ever you have planned for it

Thanks agian for the motor, I will let you know when it arrives....then I can start on the SUB!



Regards Rich
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Old Nov 05, 2009, 06:42 PM   #33
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Well I have been thinking about this project too much so decided to 'bite the bullet' and start constructing.
I have made a start on the fuselage , the plan is to make a slimmer version for testing to try and keep it light. If I am lucky enough to get this thing to fly I can then adapt the ABS moulds to fit over the thinner fuz. I think I will make the mast removable with aft pitch of the rotors adjustable. Not quite sure whether roll on the rotors will be need or not so I may just add it as a safeguard while testing?
The trickey part at the moment is the rudders and how they will be controlled so that the rods are not seen. I am thinking of making a built up tailplane and fitting a bell crank inside.
A quick question to those 'Whistler' fliers out there.....could you please tell me where the CG lies? this is the only autogyro that I can really go by at the moment to help me on my quest


I will try and add some photos tomorrow if I get chance (not much to see though)

Regards Rich
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Old Nov 05, 2009, 11:55 PM   #34
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Hi Rich,
The bell cranks inside the tailplane sound like a good plan. If anyone can make this project work well, I've got confidence it's you man. I can't wait to see it fly!
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 01:10 AM   #35
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Rich,

I'd definitely install some roll control on the prototype, just to be on the safe side and to be able to trim the rotor.

Jochen
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 05:49 AM   #36
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...The trickey part at the moment is the rudders and how they will be controlled so that the rods are not seen. I am thinking of making a built up tailplane and fitting a bell crank inside...
In the good old days , and for single channel rudder control, a 'pushrod' used to be attached directly to the 'escapement' (servo!), so as to be in line with the output shaft and to be rotated instead of push-pulled.

The pushrod was attached to a piano wire which protruded from the tail. On the outside, the wire was bent at 90 degrees and the end engaged with a narrow wire loop on the rudder. On the vintage R6-B, which has twin fins, the wire engaged with a hole in a bar or dowel instead, and the bar was attached to a rudder at either end. It worked fine, and might be worth considering as a less bulky alternative.

- To hide the parts the pushrod could pass below the tailplane, with its wire supported by a bush at the business end, and the 'rudder bar' could be a piano wire within the built up tailplane.
- Another 90 bend in the pushrod wire would turn it into a crank. It would then operate in a better plane to reduce slop at the attachment via a tin bracket to the bar.
- Perhaps a couple of loose plastic tubes, near the middle of either limb of the bar-wire, would limit the amount of flex as the rudders were operated and still allow the necessary movements of the bar.
- A 90 degree bend in either end of the bar-wire could go through a plate within each rudder...
Hope it helps

I am still at the ruminating stage with the DAG but have absolutely nothing to show Thanks for getting me started and will beg for more help in a thread. By the way I sent the pole a few days ago - sounds as if it may have been too slow!

Chris

Last edited by crossgrain; Nov 06, 2009 at 09:32 AM.
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 09:55 AM   #37
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Chris,
Fishing rod came today with thanks, I will put it to good use!

My father still has his old Mcgregor single channel radio gear!..I think they are Elmic escapements? I can always remember the rubber bands breaking and his old 'sharkface' flying off into the distance!
One of my friends Martin (the one with the pre rotating RPG) flew a single channel mini Robot this summer, power is from a Frog 80. He let me have a go at the sticks (well buttons) and it was a lot of fun and not as easy as he made it look. How radio gear has advanced....we are spoilt these days!
Here is a video of it him flying it.

Single channel model flight (3 min 55 sec)


If I am correct I think my new Scarab's rudder is the kind of thing you mean? The powered rudder is below and linked up with piano wire loop.

Here are a few photos of it...my appologise for the 'off Topic' chaps


Regards Rich
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 10:16 AM   #38
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Rich

I really enjoyed the video, looks as if the Mini-Robot flies really well and very much the same as a DAG, lovely Frog80 and what a beautiful Scarab!

No good trying to teach you anything!
but still willing to learn

Regards
Chris
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 10:17 AM   #39
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Great video Rich. Your camera is getting really noisy though - are the big ends going or does it just need an oil change?
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 10:22 AM   #40
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A trip down Halfords is needed I think!..LOL..this camera has always been niosey thats why I have to edit music to them. I just couldnt with this model as I love the sound of the diesels and the smell!!!


Regards Rich
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 10:58 AM   #41
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Rich : That video was great that has to be preserved so we can all enjoy what early R/C ing was all about. Great stuff Bill P.S. I love off subjects how else can we learn.

PP SS some of the old tricks of yesterday work well in today's application We forget that and so things get lost forever.
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 04:11 PM   #42
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Ok..a few pictures of the basic fuselage as it is at the moment. I started off with the sheet fuselage side and just started adding formers and hard wood pionts for the front nose leg,wing and mast mounts.
As you see it I have a large compartment at the front which will be for the flight batteries, I have plenty of room to move them back and forth as I flight test. The steerable nose wheel servo is mounted through the bottom of the fuselage and the elevator servo sits at the rear in a small lite ply tray.
Next I have to work out the rudder coupling, I want to keep it simple so I may mount the rudder servo under the tailplane.Instead of using a bellcrank I can utilise the servo arm itself so that it sits in the aerofoil of the hor stab, then just Y lead it up to the nose wheel. I will think about it over a few beers
When I am happy that everything is ok I will add the second Fuselage side to complete it....then onto the wing



Regards Rich
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 05:15 PM   #43
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Looking good Rich! I enjoy watching you guys design and build from scratch, it's inspirational to say the least. I'm considering a project of my own if I ever get the free time.
Regards,
-Mike
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Old Nov 08, 2009, 12:56 AM   #44
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Possible solution ?

Hi Rich, Guys,

One possible solution would be to use the 'Fly by String' method;
Mount the servo of choice under the tailplane so that the centres of rotation of the two rudders and servo are in line, make the rudders with a 'nib / horn' extending forward of the hinge line and connect using 30 lb pull kite string, about 1 mm diameter. You have a pull/pull system that will last the lifetime of the project, very light too. plse see attached drawings.

Very nice video Rich, reminds me of my 'Shark face' with an Elmic 'bang bang' escapement and DC Merlin 0.75 Diesel of the early years, I had about 45 effective comands available for the flight, so not a lot of fuel in the model, happy days.
I still have a few belting PAW's for the 3rd generation to cut their fingers on Cheers,
regards Al
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Old Nov 08, 2009, 01:24 PM   #45
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Thanks for that Al,
I think I may go with your idea if you dont mind..I was thinking too much about this and your idea makes far more sense. No need for a built up tailplane just a piece of 1/4 balsa will do the trick!


Cheers mate


Rich
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