Blade MSR Confirmed. PICs Below + video and video review - Page 429

DoomsDay · Nov 07, 2009, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy-W

About batteries. I have about 300 flights on 4 of the Flight Max, 3 Tenergy and 2 originals and all have given me good service, though I haven't timed any of them. None were so far off that they stood out.

The curious thing is that different brands cause the need to adjust the trim. It almost looks like the final voltage differs between the three and that affects how strongly the tail runs. Everything else is normal,,, just charge and fly. I DO let the packs cool before recharging.

Anyone else having these problems?

I have the two that came with the msr and 2 150's and I find myself having to throw in a couple clicks in between them sometimes. I don't know why mine does that either but sometimes I can run through all 4 packs and everything is fine and after the next charge, I might have to throw in a couple rudder clicks to straighten her out. Of course, this usually means, after the next charge, I might have to throw in a couple opposite rudder clicks to correct from the last time. I never really thought about why, I just did it and went on.

i812 · Nov 08, 2009, 12:18 AM

I am confused about what do to with the blade grips.

If I remember correctly, EatatJoe (as well as others) has posted the following recommendations:
(in reverse chronoligical order)

1) CA (today - all that is required?)

2) Metal Blade Grip (fabricated from walkera parts - last week - the end of all blade grip and TBE problems?)

3) Blade mod (last month - no more broken blade grips?)

I have been flying on one CA'd pair of blade grips for the last two months, but now have a broken ball link.

I average about one crash per battery, and fly about a few battery packs per day, every day, so over the course of two months the CA has done me good. The down side is I can't take off the blade grips without breaking them apart.

I'd like to get a discussion going on what is the "best" thing to do with the blade grips.

1) From my experience, the CA'd blade grips held up well, and it didn't appear to result in blade impacts causing some other component somewhere else to be permanently bent. However, I am concerned blade impacts result in the CA'd blade grips to be bent (instead of the blade grips breaking, they just get bent), and negatively effect flight (blade tracking?, TBE?)

2) The metal blade grip mod sounded like it was worth a try, especially since the plastic mSR blade grips weren't localy in stock; however, I couldn't find any of the walkera metal blade grip parts in stock at the 10 LHS's that I called in N. Dallas either. On the internet I was able to find the walkera blade grip part number HM-4#3Q-Z-05 (any color) for $8.75 (plus shipping) at hobby-wing.com (or red only at ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Walkera-4-3B-Hel...item3a5487014b for $9.49 includes shipping), but I wasn't certain what ball links EatatJoes was refering to (part number?).

While looking for a source for mSR blade grips, I found MicroHeli.com and HeliDirect.com offered metal blade grips for the mSR part number MH-MSR002BG for $20 plus shipping.

3) Blade Mod. Many people (including EatatJoes) have posted blade mod resulted in no more broken blade grips. If so, why come back later and post "other" blade grip fixes?

LaserSVT · Nov 08, 2009, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i812

Earlier today, I called about 10 LHS' in the N. Dallas area, and none of them had blade grips for the mSR in stock.

This is where I got my mSR from and all my parts. http://cgi.ebay.com/E-FLITE-EFLH3014...item3ef9f635a6

They have the blade grips in stock and ship fast. Also I work in Waco and the shop next door to my office has them in stock as well. Its a little bit of a drive from you but they have them.

rsmheli · Nov 08, 2009, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy-W

About batteries. I have about 300 flights on 4 of the Flight Max, 3 Tenergy and 2 originals and all have given me good service, though I haven't timed any of them. None were so far off that they stood out.

The curious thing is that different brands cause the need to adjust the trim. It almost looks like the final voltage differs between the three and that affects how strongly the tail runs. Everything else is normal,,, just charge and fly. I DO let the packs cool before recharging.

Anyone else having these problems?

Pleased to hear you are happy with all your batteries,,,, but if you don't time them, how do really know how they are performing?
Different battery performance will certainly change tail responce and tail trim.
I'm not alone in my disappointment with the Flightmax and Tenergy cells.
I just did a 3.5 minute flight to LVC with a Tenergy pack with 5 cycles on it. It is WORTHLESS

LaserSVT · Nov 08, 2009, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsmheli

Pleased to hear you are happy with all your batteries,,,, but if you don't time them, how do really know how they are performing?
Different battery performance will certainly change tail responce and tail trim.
I'm not alone in my disappointment with the Flightmax and Tenergy cells.
I just did a 3.5 minute flight to LVC with a Tenergy pack with 5 cycles on it. It is WORTHLESS

Thats dissapointing.

I have four Tenergy 130's on the way. My stock batteries go 6:45 if I run to LVC so I limit my times to 6 minutes and after about 40 flights they still last to 6 with no problem. Earlier I forgot to watch the timer (having too much fun) and hit LVC at 7:30 which seemed pretty good.
I only rapid charge then 25% of the time but figured when the new ones get in then I can 1C charge them all the time as I would have plenty of flight tme.

akschu · Nov 08, 2009, 01:16 AM

Hello All,

I'm having a problem with my msr that I can't figure out:

I have the throws on the swash turned up so the heli is fairly responsive, but when I change directions rapidly it wobbles, and sometimes when it's outside I can't get it to turn on it's side so I have to steer it with the tail more than the left/right cyclic.

At this point I'm not sure if it's because it's been crashed a zillion times, because I have the microheli aluminum main grips, or if it's just the characteristic of a fixed pitch heli.

The only looseness I can feel in the head is I can move the main grips back and forth on the feathering shaft a couple of thousandths.

Can anyone offer a suggestion?

Thanks,
schu

Evil Twin · Nov 08, 2009, 01:30 AM

I'm warning you now this mod is not pretty (see attached picture) but please try it and report back. I'm a function over form kind of guy, so I'm going to fly like this from now on. My MSR has a very slight tail wag which improved with this mod and turn transitions improved also. I can still spin it like a top with full left or full right rudder. To do the mod tape the battery on the body on the opposite side from the tail rotor as shown, trying to keep the fore/aft cg the same. I estimated the middle of the battery in the stock position, then taped the battery on trying to keep the middle in the same spot. I put a black dot on the body so I know where to place the battery. You'll need about 12 clicks of right cyclic trim (right stick) to counteract the offset weight.

technical analysis:
I noticed the MSR leans to the right because the force of the tail rotor tends to roll it that way, so I mounted the battery on the left to try and roll it back. The result is a more level helicopter, which is why the turn transistions improve. I think my tail wag improved because moving the battery from the center to the outside increases the moment of inertia.

Update 11/08/09
I moved the battery so it fits in the groove on the side of the body (see new pics), now the mod looks better visually. I found the CG is right when the black connector covers the BLA but not the DE.

41North · Nov 08, 2009, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoomsDay

I have the two that came with the msr and 2 150's and I find myself having to throw in a couple clicks in between them sometimes...

Maybe gyro initialization instead of batteries?

Rudder trim isn't going to change early unless the battery is *really* weak. I mean 2 minutes start to LVC weak. Throw away the cell a long time ago weak.

As far as I can tell, there's only to make the gyro init right on 100% the time: Put the mSR on a flat, level, sturdy surface. Hold battery in one hand, heli batt connector (don't touch the heli!) in the other. Plug in, put the battery down next to the heli, step away slowly. When the LED comes on solid, pick up both, slide the batt in the holder.

If I try to plug in a battery while it's in the holder, I have to move the heli for a few seconds after it's been plugged in. The mSR gyro seems to start 'looking' for position very quickly after getting power and is very touchy about being disturbed during that period.

brandn14 · Nov 08, 2009, 02:21 AM

Gadget, Alan, NWRflight lol thanks for the feedback

I had a blast writing that b/c I had been flying her for a couple of hours today doing death defying tricks in the house

it gets me overly excited x_x !

mCP...... oh if it ever happens, I'm going Mormon.

Evil Twin, THAT better be a joke, if it isn't, I'll throw myself off my chair

Just teasing, I guess if it works it works

i812 · Nov 08, 2009, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D.B. Hooper

Mine spins counterclock wise nothing I do changes it even full trim. I even reversed the servo and it still spins counter clock wise. Those tecs at Horizion are lame it seems to me.

Sounds like the tail motor/rotor is not working/spining.

Evil Twin · Nov 08, 2009, 03:20 AM

No joke. I just went through 4 battery packs, my MSR flew well before, now it flys smooth as butter. I notice the difference when I quickly go from a left to right turn or vice versa. With the stock battery position I could get semi-smooth transitions maybe 75% of the time, with the external left side mount I get really smooth transitions >90%. If you are mostly flying circles either direction you may not notice much of an improvement.

brandn14 · Nov 08, 2009, 04:01 AM

I wonder if it's just the Lipos themselves that are the problem. Every brand I have, even when taken well care of causes my mSR to shut off in mid-air sometimes. I don't fly to LVC, but I do fly close to it, maybe that's why.

dazzer30k · Nov 08, 2009, 07:00 AM

I think my 4 port efite charge is not working when i but the batterys in to charge there is not red light coming on? I have been using the charger with 240 batterys .

flypaper 2 · Nov 08, 2009, 07:38 AM

Is that with the external power wall wart and the internal batts?? There have been some issues with the jack on the side not letting the internal batts. connect with the circuit board.
41 North, the gyro will enitialize even with the heli laying on its side. It only needs that few seconds sitting still.

Gord.

Eagleburger · Nov 08, 2009, 08:00 AM

I wanna get one of these to take on holidays. I know nothing about them so any help is appreciated.

What spares should I get?

Can the mode 2 tranny be converted to mode 1?

Nov 08, 2009, 01:30 AM	#6427
Evil Twin Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 20	External left side battery mount mod: improves turns & tail wag I'm warning you now this mod is not pretty (see attached picture) but please try it and report back. I'm a function over form kind of guy, so I'm going to fly like this from now on. My MSR has a very slight tail wag which improved with this mod and turn transitions improved also. I can still spin it like a top with full left or full right rudder. To do the mod tape the battery on the body on the opposite side from the tail rotor as shown, trying to keep the fore/aft cg the same. I estimated the middle of the battery in the stock position, then taped the battery on trying to keep the middle in the same spot. I put a black dot on the body so I know where to place the battery. You'll need about 12 clicks of right cyclic trim (right stick) to counteract the offset weight. technical analysis: I noticed the MSR leans to the right because the force of the tail rotor tends to roll it that way, so I mounted the battery on the left to try and roll it back. The result is a more level helicopter, which is why the turn transistions improve. I think my tail wag improved because moving the battery from the center to the outside increases the moment of inertia. Update 11/08/09 I moved the battery so it fits in the groove on the side of the body (see new pics), now the mod looks better visually. I found the CG is right when the black connector covers the BLA but not the DE. Attached Thumbnails External left side battery mount mod: improves turns & tail wag 59.8 KB · Views: 62 49.2 KB · Views: 48 Alpha version, I now mount the battery as in pictures 1 & 2. 48.5 KB · Views: 126 Last edited by Evil Twin; Nov 10, 2009 at 02:48 AM.

Nov 08, 2009, 02:21 AM	#6429
brandn14 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 45	Gadget, Alan, NWRflight lol thanks for the feedback I had a blast writing that b/c I had been flying her for a couple of hours today doing death defying tricks in the house it gets me overly excited x_x ! mCP...... oh if it ever happens, I'm going Mormon. Evil Twin, THAT better be a joke, if it isn't, I'll throw myself off my chair Just teasing, I guess if it works it works Last edited by brandn14; Nov 08, 2009 at 02:29 AM.

Nov 08, 2009, 12:18 AM	#6422
i812 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 108	I am confused about what do to with the blade grips. If I remember correctly, EatatJoe (as well as others) has posted the following recommendations: (in reverse chronoligical order) 1) CA (today - all that is required?) 2) Metal Blade Grip (fabricated from walkera parts - last week - the end of all blade grip and TBE problems?) 3) Blade mod (last month - no more broken blade grips?) I have been flying on one CA'd pair of blade grips for the last two months, but now have a broken ball link. I average about one crash per battery, and fly about a few battery packs per day, every day, so over the course of two months the CA has done me good. The down side is I can't take off the blade grips without breaking them apart. I'd like to get a discussion going on what is the "best" thing to do with the blade grips. 1) From my experience, the CA'd blade grips held up well, and it didn't appear to result in blade impacts causing some other component somewhere else to be permanently bent. However, I am concerned blade impacts result in the CA'd blade grips to be bent (instead of the blade grips breaking, they just get bent), and negatively effect flight (blade tracking?, TBE?) 2) The metal blade grip mod sounded like it was worth a try, especially since the plastic mSR blade grips weren't localy in stock; however, I couldn't find any of the walkera metal blade grip parts in stock at the 10 LHS's that I called in N. Dallas either. On the internet I was able to find the walkera blade grip part number HM-4#3Q-Z-05 (any color) for $8.75 (plus shipping) at hobby-wing.com (or red only at ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Walkera-4-3B-Hel...item3a5487014b for $9.49 includes shipping), but I wasn't certain what ball links EatatJoes was refering to (part number?). While looking for a source for mSR blade grips, I found MicroHeli.com and HeliDirect.com offered metal blade grips for the mSR part number MH-MSR002BG for $20 plus shipping. 3) Blade Mod. Many people (including EatatJoes) have posted blade mod resulted in no more broken blade grips. If so, why come back later and post "other" blade grip fixes?

Nov 08, 2009, 01:16 AM	#6426
akschu Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Houston, Alaska Posts: 261	Hello All, I'm having a problem with my msr that I can't figure out: I have the throws on the swash turned up so the heli is fairly responsive, but when I change directions rapidly it wobbles, and sometimes when it's outside I can't get it to turn on it's side so I have to steer it with the tail more than the left/right cyclic. At this point I'm not sure if it's because it's been crashed a zillion times, because I have the microheli aluminum main grips, or if it's just the characteristic of a fixed pitch heli. The only looseness I can feel in the head is I can move the main grips back and forth on the feathering shaft a couple of thousandths. Can anyone offer a suggestion? Thanks, schu

Nov 08, 2009, 03:20 AM	#6431
Evil Twin Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 20	No joke. I just went through 4 battery packs, my MSR flew well before, now it flys smooth as butter. I notice the difference when I quickly go from a left to right turn or vice versa. With the stock battery position I could get semi-smooth transitions maybe 75% of the time, with the external left side mount I get really smooth transitions >90%. If you are mostly flying circles either direction you may not notice much of an improvement.

Nov 08, 2009, 04:01 AM	#6432
brandn14 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 45	I wonder if it's just the Lipos themselves that are the problem. Every brand I have, even when taken well care of causes my mSR to shut off in mid-air sometimes. I don't fly to LVC, but I do fly close to it, maybe that's why.

Nov 08, 2009, 07:00 AM	#6433
dazzer30k Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 286	I think my 4 port efite charge is not working when i but the batterys in to charge there is not red light coming on? I have been using the charger with 240 batterys .

Nov 08, 2009, 07:38 AM	#6434
flypaper 2 Gord Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Kingston, Canada Posts: 4,666	Is that with the external power wall wart and the internal batts?? There have been some issues with the jack on the side not letting the internal batts. connect with the circuit board. 41 North, the gyro will enitialize even with the heli laying on its side. It only needs that few seconds sitting still. Gord.

Nov 08, 2009, 08:00 AM	#6435
Eagleburger Electric Hippy Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Brisbane Posts: 1,760	I wanna get one of these to take on holidays. I know nothing about them so any help is appreciated. What spares should I get? Can the mode 2 tranny be converted to mode 1?