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Old Nov 06, 2009, 09:01 PM   #1276
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Faulty receiver 4G6 ?!...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Z06 Tony View Post
You may be running the batt too low. I only fly 5 mins. Try that and if it holds for 5 mins you are good. Also, The Oversky batts are much better.
I have six batteries - one original and 5 of the Storm 3.7 V / 600 mAh, 20C. On each is the same. In the basic version of the engine problem appeared after about 4min40sec, after changing the HP06S Outrunner Brushless Motor and XP-7A ESC, this happens at 3min30sec. It looks as the receiver lost the signal for a split second and then he did not saw the minimum throttle position.

Last edited by Marcin M; Nov 06, 2009 at 09:16 PM.
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 09:22 PM   #1277
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Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
hey amp any chance this short can out runner has more power then the stock or 03 motors?? its wayyy shorter then the stock motor! its a little thing!
Nope...if it is the CO5 and not the CO5L it won't have the torque for a 4g6. Great in a 4#3B or the like. Not alot of reports on the CO5L but the wk would be better there too.

Amp
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Old Nov 06, 2009, 11:07 PM   #1278
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Originally Posted by Ampdraw View Post
When I had the 4g3 wk esc running my HP06 the fet's weaken. Don't know if Dkfuji was talking about a wk esc or the XP. But with the wk yep the fets definately weaken (at least for the 4g3 one).

Amp
Hey Cam. Yep, was talking about the Walkera ESC. I just noticed lack of HS and climbout. Thought it might be the motor melting down or battery connectors or ...But it was the ESC. I have a bag of them that just don't have the punch they once did. Use them for parts now. Maybe just too many test flights with mystery motors. LOL.
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 01:01 AM   #1279
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Anyone Everyone?

How to you fix the tail slider, I just breezed over the whole forum and must have missed it.....where do you put the crazy glue to keep the bearing in place I got like 3mm play
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 01:34 AM   #1280
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Anyone Everyone?

How to you fix the tail slider, I just breezed over the whole forum and must have missed it.....where do you put the crazy glue to keep the bearing in place I got like 3mm play
It is the little slider bearing in the plastic slider housing. The bearing has play within the housing. You have to CA the collar of the bearing into the housing to keep it from moving back and forth.
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 06:06 AM   #1281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfuji View Post
Hey Cam. Yep, was talking about the Walkera ESC. I just noticed lack of HS and climbout. Thought it might be the motor melting down or battery connectors or ...But it was the ESC. I have a bag of them that just don't have the punch they once did. Use them for parts now. Maybe just too many test flights with mystery motors. LOL.
Hi Darryl, yep....I remember having reservations and thinking the esc works...therefore it is fine....not so.
How are you going flipping this little guy? Last vids I have seen were really awesome and well we live just a little far apart to have a fly-off!
Having alot of fun with my HH g3....but also enjoying hearing about this heli.

Amp
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 11:07 AM   #1282
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U also gotta supe glue the pitchslider arm to the hallow shaft..after you press it together by putting needle nose pliers on the back of the shaft and pressing the plastic slider arm all the way tight with the bearing..
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 01:42 PM   #1283
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ell after quickly shreding the junk stock dampners, i decided to fnd sumthing better!..i think this should hold upfor a while..i found O-rings in a MIA battery and antenna mounting kit that fit perectly in the head block and firmly over the feathering shaft..smilar to the way the Trex 450 head dampner is set up, then i used very tiny O-rings from the MIA fly bar stabilizer set to use as spacers inbetween the dampner oring and the aluminum bearing spacer. The small o-ring tightens up the dampening and creates a small gap between the dampner and the aluminum spacer to stop it from binding against the head block..

a flew it two flights and now the helicopter stops the weird drifting and sluggy response..everything seems crisp and responsive now..and the head is much much stiffer..so for 5 cents in o-rings it worked out great!

heres some pics so you can see the order i stacked everything..sorry there kinda crappy i took em with my Iphone
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 01:47 PM   #1284
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Power revived when exchanging it for micro deans connectors(dark red plastic) since the power of the batteries had lowered. However, main blades flutter intensely by the pitch of 50% by HP08S/XP7A/T20 because HS is too fast. the same also T18. The flight is exactly crazy but I have come to like it.

Should I change it to the metal head?
No problem for you with T20?
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 02:30 PM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tipstar View Post
Power revived when exchanging it for micro deans connectors(dark red plastic) since the power of the batteries had lowered. However, main blades flutter intensely by the pitch of 50% by HP08S/XP7A/T20 because HS is too fast. the same also T18. The flight is exactly crazy but I have come to like it.

Should I change it to the metal head?
No problem for you with T20?
I swapped heads on my 4G6 with my 4G3 to use the Gaui double bearing mixer arms I had installed in that plastic head assembly. So with the plastic head assy with Gaui double bearing mixer arms I got crazy blade flutter????? It turned out that the bearings in my plastic blade holders were slightly notchy. They worked fine with a turbo ace red w/16T on my 4G3 but the HP08-2 w/ 20T pinion needs smooth and perfect everything.

Good Luck, Don
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 03:07 PM   #1286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfuji View Post
It is the little slider bearing in the plastic slider housing. The bearing has play within the housing. You have to CA the collar of the bearing into the housing to keep it from moving back and forth.
Thanks DK, I wound up taking the whole assembly apart at 2am mind you (I need 12 step meetings for heli addiction) and then I saw what you posted, ..popped the slider back into the plastic with a needle nose then Ca'd the metal to plastic, interesting it works better than new now... i like that!!
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Last edited by HeliFlyer711; Nov 07, 2009 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 05:13 PM   #1287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
Thanks DK, I wound up taking the whole assembly apart at 2am mind you (I need 12 step meetings for heli addiction) and then I saw what you posted, ..popped the slider back into the plastic with a needle nose then Ca'd the metal to plastic, interesting it works better than new now... i like that!!
Sweet. I had to do that with all of my G6's. They still flew fine without the fix but hey why take the chance? Now with the additional HS I am flying, everything has to be perfect and balanced.
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 06:23 PM   #1288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711 View Post
Thanks DK, I wound up taking the whole assembly apart at 2am mind you (I need 12 step meetings for heli addiction) and then I saw what you posted, ..popped the slider back into the plastic with a needle nose then Ca'd the metal to plastic, interesting it works better than new now... i like that!!
If you find a 12 step program, please share. I'll miss my wife and children, but this is getting out of hand .
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Old Nov 08, 2009, 12:48 AM   #1289
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If you find a 12 step program, please share. I'll miss my wife and children, but this is getting out of hand .
Hey guys this is what I do for a living and I still have errrr...mmmmm..."issues".

"My name is Darryl and I am a heli addict" LOL
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Old Nov 08, 2009, 01:02 AM   #1290
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If you find a 12 step program, please share. I'll miss my wife and children, but this is getting out of hand .
Helicopters Annoymous (HA) - Manny is going to deprogram us by showing us youtube videos of hopped up 4g3's & 4g6's in fatal crashes followed by lipo fires. Coffee and cigarettes provided by wowhobbies.
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