E-Sky Lama V4 Resource Thread - Parts, Mods., Tuning, Upgrades, Etc. - Page 433

Tiernan85 · Nov 06, 2009, 11:44 AM

thank you kindly sir.

airwolf2006 · Nov 06, 2009, 12:19 PM

You can make your own adjustable flybar.Buy some 1/16 locking collars or wheel weights at your local hobby store.Dubro brand comes 4 to a pack with an allen wrench for 1.98.Take off the stock flybar weight and cut the hook off.Slide the collars on and tighten.I use 2 on each end of the flybar of my v3 and they work great.P.S.I had the CF flybar and it was excellent,But it did break after a bad crash.I have yet to break a steel or stock one.

Chap1012 · Nov 06, 2009, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiernan85

Hi guys, I'm getting an alum swash and was wondering if there is a preference between the E-sky or the Xtreme one. Or is there another available that is better? I had one come with my heli when i bought it but the quality is pure rubbish and it will due well as a paper weight only.

thanks

Like Stamp suggested....Xtreme...Very nice swash:
http://www.boomtownhobbies.com/Xtrem...4_p/esl034.htm

Mike.

Barak1001 · Nov 07, 2009, 01:15 AM

I flew my brushless from almost day one using a cnc swash that I got in a $20 set from deal extreme. I finally replaced the original swash after flying with it for about a year, since the brass center had started to get burrs on it.

Although there are a couple of garbage cnc sets out there, as long as it has a brass center hub and the hub floats on a bearing it should be fine. That's the only moving part in the entire swash after all.

Tiernan85 · Nov 07, 2009, 07:54 AM

I ordered one yesterday now, I did get it from Boomtown, they ship fairly fast out this way.

the one I had, I actually didn't try simply because even the metal hub had a spur on it which made it so it could not move freely without severe binding in one direction.

frieslander · Nov 07, 2009, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiernan85

I ordered one yesterday now, I did get it from Boomtown, they ship fairly fast out this way.

the one I had, I actually didn't try simply because even the metal hub had a spur on it which made it so it could not move freely without severe binding in one direction.

The burrs cam usually be worked out by continuously moving them before installation. Put some light sewing machine or 3 in 1 oil on the moving parts and stick an old outer shaft or something similar in the center hole. Just keep moving it to the extremes for a bit and the burrs will smoothen out.

Tiernan85 · Nov 07, 2009, 12:42 PM

Thanks I'll give that a go too, but the xtreme one is on the way now.

my next question is on the 4in1 there are 3 unused ports. can i use one of them for powering my xtreme lights? the light kit says it needs 7.4 or 11.1v as an input, do those ports supply enough current? if not i'll find another way to do it. i just dont want to have to plug into the battery balance plug everytime i fly. as i'm writing this i dont think it will work but i'll ask anyway.

thanks again

frieslander · Nov 07, 2009, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiernan85

Thanks I'll give that a go too, but the xtreme one is on the way now.

my next question is on the 4in1 there are 3 unused ports. can i use one of them for powering my xtreme lights? the light kit says it needs 7.4 or 11.1v as an input, do those ports supply enough current? if not i'll find another way to do it. i just dont want to have to plug into the battery balance plug everytime i fly. as i'm writing this i dont think it will work but i'll ask anyway.

thanks again

Yes the lights should work no problem. This is the same 4 in 1 used for all the models having lights. just plug them in si that the part of the socket with no wire is pointed to the front, the middle and the back pin supply the power.

Tiernan85 · Nov 07, 2009, 02:52 PM

ok, yes that did work, but because the voltage is lower than 6v it causes the lights to stay solid and the main light to blink.(needs to be opposite)

I think i'm just going to hardwire it into the power lead. Now with that I am confusing myself. I simply want to make a y-harness from the main power plug so that one connector goes to the battery and one will stay hardwired to the lights, so then when i plug in the battery the lights will go on also. Do i need to make it as a series connector or a parallel connector?

edit: I'm pretty sure I need it to be a parallel connector right? main lead comes from the battery and than splits one to the 4in1 and one to the lights?

thanks
Jon

frieslander · Nov 07, 2009, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiernan85

ok, yes that did work, but because the voltage is lower than 6v it causes the lights to stay solid and the main light to blink.(needs to be opposite)

I think i'm just going to hardwire it into the power lead. Now with that I am confusing myself. I simply want to make a y-harness from the main power plug so that one connector goes to the battery and one will stay hardwired to the lights, so then when i plug in the battery the lights will go on also. Do i need to make it as a series connector or a parallel connector?

edit: I'm pretty sure I need it to be a parallel connector right? main lead comes from the battery and than splits one to the 4in1 and one to the lights?

thanks
Jon

Do not connect anything in such away that one lead goes to the battery and the other to the 4 in 1 unless you plan to see the 4 in 1 smoke and burn. I have a blue flasjing light that comes with the Dauphin and the Hunter. It simply plugs into the 4 in 1 and works.

You need to wire them so that each light gets its current directly from the 4 in 1, do not run them in serries. You stated yhat the lights need 7.4 volts or 11.1 vplts as an input, maybe only one light is to flash in your case.

erdnuckel2 · Nov 07, 2009, 10:42 PM

Hi,

I know how one should not make assumptions - but in lack of a better word or description ... this is what I am going to do! I assume he is talking about the Xtreme lipo saver lightkit ( as he says 7.4 or 11.1 Volts ... and I "don't want" to plug that in my balancer plug everytime I fly. Those lights were made for a VERY specific purpose and that is to act as a "protective device" (that on top of fulfilling its task also looks good.)
The one thing I don't get is where the big problem about plugging the whole thing in the balancer plug is ... so it is one plug more - what's the big deal ???

Tiernan85 · Nov 08, 2009, 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

Hi,

I know how one should not make assumptions - but in lack of a better word or description ... this is what I am going to do! I assume he is talking about the Xtreme lipo saver lightkit ( as he says 7.4 or 11.1 Volts ... and I "don't want" to plug that in my balancer plug everytime I fly. Those lights were made for a VERY specific purpose and that is to act as a "protective device" (that on top of fulfilling its task also looks good.)
The one thing I don't get is where the big problem about plugging the whole thing in the balancer plug is ... so it is one plug more - what's the big deal ???

you couldn't be more correct. I was trying to make it more simple, but after rigging up the lights last night, and pondering where i was going to mount everything I finally gave up and said pretty much the same thing. "what's the big deal, it's one more plug" haha

I bought the kit pretty much just for "the lights" but having the warning system will prove handy I'm sure. I took the whole casing off to reduce weight as much as possible so in total it comes to about 7.5g. All in all thanks for the help guys, I'm definately a newb in this area of RC and was just caught off gaurd by bright flashing colors

frieslander · Nov 08, 2009, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

Hi,

I know how one should not make assumptions - but in lack of a better word or description ... this is what I am going to do! I assume he is talking about the Xtreme lipo saver lightkit ( as he says 7.4 or 11.1 Volts ... and I "don't want" to plug that in my balancer plug everytime I fly. Those lights were made for a VERY specific purpose and that is to act as a "protective device" (that on top of fulfilling its task also looks good.)
The one thing I don't get is where the big problem about plugging the whole thing in the balancer plug is ... so it is one plug more - what's the big deal ???

OK what my understanding was that he was going to plug one lead into the battery plug and another lead into the 4 in one. Unless there are instructions, if there were why all the questions, to do so I would not advise anyone to do that. If a light shorts out there can be adverse effects.

It is just that one never knows what the other person is actually doing do it is better to be cautious. I do not know either why he does not just plug it into the balancer plug, then no problem. I just do not like someone to start experimenting with connecting one wire to the battery and the other to the balancer,

Am I wrong? If so let me know.

Tiernan85 · Nov 08, 2009, 11:14 AM

Hi, sorry for the confusion, basicly I was going to have it wired so that when I plugged in the battery it would not only turn the heli on, but at the same time turn on the lights/alarm. It would have made it a bit more tidy under the canopy. Regardless though, I did just use the balance plug as per the instructions and have it all completed and it's flying like a champ

thanks again for your help and concerns, I appreciate it

Bigster · Nov 10, 2009, 06:27 PM

Don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but BPHobbies.com is closing out Lama parts. I ordered a ton of replacement stuff for $25.

Nov 06, 2009, 12:19 PM	#6482
airwolf2006 Wish my coax could autorotate Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Riverdale Md. Posts: 814	You can make your own adjustable flybar.Buy some 1/16 locking collars or wheel weights at your local hobby store.Dubro brand comes 4 to a pack with an allen wrench for 1.98.Take off the stock flybar weight and cut the hook off.Slide the collars on and tighten.I use 2 on each end of the flybar of my v3 and they work great.P.S.I had the CF flybar and it was excellent,But it did break after a bad crash.I have yet to break a steel or stock one. Last edited by airwolf2006; Nov 06, 2009 at 02:58 PM.

Nov 07, 2009, 02:52 PM	#6489
Tiernan85 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ireland Posts: 21	ok, yes that did work, but because the voltage is lower than 6v it causes the lights to stay solid and the main light to blink.(needs to be opposite) I think i'm just going to hardwire it into the power lead. Now with that I am confusing myself. I simply want to make a y-harness from the main power plug so that one connector goes to the battery and one will stay hardwired to the lights, so then when i plug in the battery the lights will go on also. Do i need to make it as a series connector or a parallel connector? edit: I'm pretty sure I need it to be a parallel connector right? main lead comes from the battery and than splits one to the 4in1 and one to the lights? thanks Jon Last edited by Tiernan85; Nov 07, 2009 at 03:48 PM.

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Nov 06, 2009, 11:44 AM	#6481
Tiernan85 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ireland Posts: 21	thank you kindly sir.

Nov 07, 2009, 01:15 AM	#6484
Barak1001 Ghetto Web Guy Join Date: May 2008 Location: Hanceville, Al Posts: 1,469	I flew my brushless from almost day one using a cnc swash that I got in a $20 set from deal extreme. I finally replaced the original swash after flying with it for about a year, since the brass center had started to get burrs on it. Although there are a couple of garbage cnc sets out there, as long as it has a brass center hub and the hub floats on a bearing it should be fine. That's the only moving part in the entire swash after all.

Nov 07, 2009, 07:54 AM	#6485
Tiernan85 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ireland Posts: 21	I ordered one yesterday now, I did get it from Boomtown, they ship fairly fast out this way. the one I had, I actually didn't try simply because even the metal hub had a spur on it which made it so it could not move freely without severe binding in one direction.

Nov 07, 2009, 12:42 PM	#6487
Tiernan85 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ireland Posts: 21	Thanks I'll give that a go too, but the xtreme one is on the way now. my next question is on the 4in1 there are 3 unused ports. can i use one of them for powering my xtreme lights? the light kit says it needs 7.4 or 11.1v as an input, do those ports supply enough current? if not i'll find another way to do it. i just dont want to have to plug into the battery balance plug everytime i fly. as i'm writing this i dont think it will work but i'll ask anyway. thanks again

Nov 07, 2009, 10:42 PM	#6491
erdnuckel2 TriC-2 Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 1,472	Hi, I know how one should not make assumptions - but in lack of a better word or description ... this is what I am going to do! I assume he is talking about the Xtreme lipo saver lightkit ( as he says 7.4 or 11.1 Volts ... and I "don't want" to plug that in my balancer plug everytime I fly. Those lights were made for a VERY specific purpose and that is to act as a "protective device" (that on top of fulfilling its task also looks good.) The one thing I don't get is where the big problem about plugging the whole thing in the balancer plug is ... so it is one plug more - what's the big deal ???

Nov 08, 2009, 11:14 AM	#6494
Tiernan85 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Ireland Posts: 21	Hi, sorry for the confusion, basicly I was going to have it wired so that when I plugged in the battery it would not only turn the heli on, but at the same time turn on the lights/alarm. It would have made it a bit more tidy under the canopy. Regardless though, I did just use the balance plug as per the instructions and have it all completed and it's flying like a champ thanks again for your help and concerns, I appreciate it

Nov 10, 2009, 06:27 PM	#6495
Bigster WAA-08 Pilot #40 Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Grafton, Massachusetts, United States Posts: 2,739	Don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but BPHobbies.com is closing out Lama parts. I ordered a ton of replacement stuff for $25.