A50s replacing shaft

DavidN · Dec 02, 2008, 11:00 PM

I am making a twin and the 2 A50 10s motors I have, have different shaft lengths. Solution 1) swap one for the shaft of my 12s, which is the same as the short shaft. So removing the circlip and the collar was easy. Now it looks like I need to remove 2 hex screws holding on the bell; but they are stuck fast with thread sealant. I presume they need heat to break the bond. But I am reluctant to proceed till I know the other steps as I don't want to unglue the magnets etc.

Solution 2) would be to cut the shaftdown by 3/8".
DavidN

FL62 · Dec 05, 2008, 08:18 PM

David,
You could do either one.

The Grub screws are secured using threadlock - so just make sure you have a properly sized hex driver or allen key - they should be 2 or 2.5 mm if I remember correctly - so as not to strip them.

You could obviously cut down the longer shaft to match the first, just make sure to cover any openings in the motor to prevent metal filings from getting in there and damaging the bearings or shorting the windings.

We do normally stock replacement shafts for all of our current motors.

Thanks
Mike

DavidN · Jun 25, 2009, 11:17 PM

Just replacing shaft after breakage. The newly arrived shafts (I bought 2 in case Murphy is lurking), have the circlip ring further from the flattened end than the shaft it is replacing. This means it will be about 1/4" in front of the stationary end of the motor. I only see this as a problem if running the motor prop on the bell end. Is it intended that the "wheel collet" like retainer be between the circlip and the stationary (black) end?
Lastly I have got the shaft in to 1 mm from fully seated. I am concerned that trying to heat the bell might damaged the magnets. Any tips?

Dec 02, 2008, 11:00 PM	#1
DavidN "Do it with batteries" Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Vernon, BC, Canada Posts: 1,318	A50s replacing shaft I am making a twin and the 2 A50 10s motors I have, have different shaft lengths. Solution 1) swap one for the shaft of my 12s, which is the same as the short shaft. So removing the circlip and the collar was easy. Now it looks like I need to remove 2 hex screws holding on the bell; but they are stuck fast with thread sealant. I presume they need heat to break the bond. But I am reluctant to proceed till I know the other steps as I don't want to unglue the magnets etc. Solution 2) would be to cut the shaftdown by 3/8". DavidN

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Dec 05, 2008, 08:18 PM	#2
FL62 Never enough power..... Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 882	David, You could do either one. The Grub screws are secured using threadlock - so just make sure you have a properly sized hex driver or allen key - they should be 2 or 2.5 mm if I remember correctly - so as not to strip them. You could obviously cut down the longer shaft to match the first, just make sure to cover any openings in the motor to prevent metal filings from getting in there and damaging the bearings or shorting the windings. We do normally stock replacement shafts for all of our current motors. Thanks Mike

Jun 25, 2009, 11:17 PM	#3
DavidN "Do it with batteries" Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Vernon, BC, Canada Posts: 1,318	Just replacing shaft after breakage. The newly arrived shafts (I bought 2 in case Murphy is lurking), have the circlip ring further from the flattened end than the shaft it is replacing. This means it will be about 1/4" in front of the stationary end of the motor. I only see this as a problem if running the motor prop on the bell end. Is it intended that the "wheel collet" like retainer be between the circlip and the stationary (black) end? Lastly I have got the shaft in to 1 mm from fully seated. I am concerned that trying to heat the bell might damaged the magnets. Any tips?