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Oct 11, 2017, 10:51 AM
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Eachine Stack-X F4 Flytower Built-in VTX OSD 1080P DVR 4 In 1 35A Dshot600 ESC

New product from Eachine that came right out of the blue! F4 flytower with 35A DSHOT ESCs that go up to 6s, built in Betaflight OSD and VTX and to top it off, a split-type camera that records 1080p60, supports PWM control and acts as your FPV camera. Price is low for all this, only $105.99, might be able to lower it with coupons (Toysho, etc.)

I can't wait for reviews of this one, I hope the camera performs well and Banggood stocks individual components.

Eachine Stack-X F4 Flytower

STM32F405 MCU Runs Betaflight 3.2.0 firmware.
Use ICM-20608 as Acc & Gyro over SPI Bus.
Serial or PPM signal input.
STM32 control Betalfight OSD Over SPI in DMA Modeľ configure by Betaflight GUI.
Integrated 5.8G 48CH VTX power switchable - 50mw / 200mw switchable.
STM32 control VTX Band / Channel / Power -Set in Betaflight GUI in CLI Command.
BLheli_S new firmware 4in1 35A ESC Dshot600 ready.
BLHELI pass-through ready.
1080P 60 FPS video recorder support AV real time transmit.
1080P Digital 120 degree camera with 1/3 CMOS sensor.
Lower CBVS latency 50ms~80ms.
Remote control Start / Stop video record via PWM signal.
3S-6S power support.

Package included:
1 x Stack-X 2-6S ESC BLHeli_S
1 x Stack-X F4 flight controller built-in OSD VTX
1 x Stack-X 1080P DVR with camera
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Oct 11, 2017, 12:34 PM
Quad Erat Demonstrandum
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The onboard DVR is interesting as long as it is [email protected] and not upscaled/frame doubled , not too sure about the metal parts but hoping to be impressed
Oct 11, 2017, 03:45 PM
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I think it might, the Eachine v-tail had a camera like this, and it did true 1080p60.

I'm hoping they'll sell the camera separately at a cheap price.
Oct 11, 2017, 04:04 PM
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Highly interesting. This is trully all in one stack. Also looking forward for separate components.
Oct 25, 2017, 11:25 PM
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Anyone know how the camera mounts on this? Do you think it works with most frame mounts as is?
Oct 26, 2017, 07:54 AM
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It looks like similar dimensions to a runcam mini. Don't quote me on that, though :P I'm hoping Banggood releases more specifications soon, they like to tease us with the really interesting stuff.

Edit: Turns out the dimensions are posted on the site now :P The camera is the same width as the Runcam Mini, so slightly narrower than the standard frame mount, but still compatible with them. You might need to use longer screws and some rubber washers.
Nov 01, 2017, 01:05 PM
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All the individual boards are available now on Banggood:

Camera Module

Flight Controller with the VTX

4-in-1 35A ESC board

Nov 02, 2017, 04:30 PM
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Too much camera sticking out behind the mounting holes. Youll never get a high camera angle on a compact build
Nov 02, 2017, 08:03 PM
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I agree, it wouldn't work out on a super tight x-frame. However, I don't like props in my video anyway, I would use this in something like

Realacc Furious 220: Lots of room for the camera, should clear the props.

Realacc Dark Warrior 210: If it's determined it could fit in here, it would make a durable build.

Transtec frog : Provided there was enough stack height in the frame, not sure about the total height of of the flytower yet.

GEP-RC Leopard: A little pricy, but a good frame.

Overall, I think those can be consider reasonably compact. They're not the tightest builds, but considering there's no gopro on top, they'll still be pretty lightweight and tidy.
Nov 17, 2017, 06:24 AM
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Just add BG Realacc Purple 150 or Armattan Jalapura. Both should support the cam and electronics. Personally I voted for the first so when I am ready with the build I throw somer info here.
Nov 17, 2017, 02:09 PM
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The problem with those frames is there isn't enough height for the stack. According to Banggood, you can make the Stack-X 33m high at the absolute minimum. I think Scouse measured the Purple 150 to have around 22mm of stack height available.

I agree with you, though. I wanted the Purple215 with the Stack-X. It would have made a beautiful, durable and compact quad that does full HD.
Last edited by BobFromMars; Nov 20, 2017 at 12:32 AM.
Nov 20, 2017, 12:43 PM
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Fortunately, you are wrong. Today the Stack arrived, as well as the motors. Now I have everything to finish the build. Good news is that the stack height is 30mm with the provided 10mm nylon spacers but all the boards are so slim that one can use 3-4mm spacers at will. This way the whole stack height can be achieved within 20mm, that comfortably fit into the Realacc purple :-)
And to be absolutely correct, the Purple clearance is only 20mm, instead of the mentioned 22mm.

My only concern now is the position of the camera, as the Purple space width between the alu sides is 18mm only, while the Stack-X camera width is 22mm. This would not be a problem when using the side plates but I wanted to get rid of them, just to lessen the overall weight.

And here is the photo of all the parts, except propellers and battery. All this with Armattan 3850kv motors. I chose them because of the special propeller mount and durability.
Nov 20, 2017, 01:17 PM
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Thread OP
Haha, I'm happy to be wrong in this case

Keep us informed on the build, and if there are any problems with running the boards so close together (overheating, interference, and so on). I might make something like this for my next build!
Nov 20, 2017, 04:56 PM
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Nov 23, 2017, 11:54 AM
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So I put the quad together, at least as a first draft.

I do not have any 3-4mm nylon spacers so I used anything I just found around, rubber,
another nylon pieces and so on. I have changed the factory nylon screws to much longer ones, so I can fix 2 decks with 1 screw now. Still, I had to raise the alu platform by 10mm, although 5mm would be enough but I do not have 5mm spacers of that kind.

The camera is not properly fixed now, just held by some elastic rubber band. Unfortunately, the X-stack camera DOES NOT FIT into the curved part of the aluminium in the nose by default. However, by removing the rear aluminium part that holds the ribbon cable I found that the camera fits into the alu nose, although it is a tight fit. Unfortunately, in that case the two long screws that hold the camera body inside the alu housing are not able to get fixed to anything else so the camera body can freely move in the housing. I am thinking of do the complete teardown of the camera and get out the lens and electronics from the alu housing completely.

I must say that the quality of the soldering is poor, and there are some design flaws as well. First of all, a very small component like a resistor or capacitor just fell off the FC, without any abusement, while mounting it into the rack. It seems that the FC can work without it, so tomorrow I do the maiden. Secondly, I noticed that some small components again on the FC and also on the ESC board are too close to the nylon spacers that go through the holes. In case of the smallest hit these components may fail to stay in place, causing trouble. To avoid that, I used very short (1-2mm high) smaller radius spacers before inserting the factory nylon spacers.
However, I am very afraid of the first crash, assuming that something just fails on me :-(

Another problem is that the cable connecting the ESC board with the FC is too short, so one is unable to wire it outside the rack, it simply must go through it and I am afraid that the heat generated by the FETs may melt these cables. I hope the manufacturer have used quality silicon cables with sufficiently heat resistant insulator material.
Generally, the smaller the space between the decks, the hotter the whole solution is.

To make it worse, the DVR board gets hot very fast, even if not recording, and powering just from the PC USB. Most of the heat is detected around the SD card holder. Fortunately, I strengthten all the rack boards with epoxy in all places where bigger components are soldered and/or cables are connected. This is a good practice to avoid problems during crashes. To be sure, I used epoxy also around the SD card holder.

The factory settings of the BF simply did not allowed me to arm the copter so I adjusted the min throttle. Apart from this, not much settings were needed to adjust.

And to say some positive at the end: by soldering all the motor wires to the nearest ESC board ports and in the order they come out of the motor body, NO FURTHER adjustment was needed neither in the BLheli Suite nor the BF Motor tab section, all motors simply are connected right with the right rotation directions. If this is a result of the design than Eachine deserves some good points for this. And to negate this the same time, I must say that the documentation of the ESC board is poorly written so it is unclear which motor goes where and how it is mapped in the FC.
So first I had to make some try-fail soldering work to work this out.

More info will follow after the maiden.

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