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Old Feb 04, 2008, 04:10 AM
cjshaker is offline
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USA, OR, Deschutes
Joined Oct 2006
46 Posts
Dave speaks the truth

I'm currently beating my head against an Electrifly FlatOuts RC biplane. What Dave says about the hinging system
used in FlatOuts is right on. This kit is really making me mad.

None of the plastic parts seem to be usable as is. All of the
plastic parts I've used so far waste your time drilling them to
size, nipping the ends of the clips to avoid breakage, etc. The
hinge retainer rings have to be drilled out or reamed to fit
over the 3mm carbon tube.

Hint to others, modify the retainer rings to fit the tube before
you cut them loose from the plastic sprue.

The instructions tell you to nip off the tips of the clip hinges to
avoid breakage when snapping them onto the carbon tube. You've
got to drill a #59 hole through the z-bend clevis, and a #38 hole
through the plastic control horn it is supposed to fit through. And,
it does not want to go through that nice new hole. It wants to bend
or break instead.

I've previously built an Aerocat from, and I found
that kit very easy to build. Cutting the depron at a 45 deg angle
was easy with a straightedge and a new blade. Hinging with
blenderm was quick, easy, and durable. Their lasercut ply control
horns were quick to install, and worked great with lightweight
wire pushrods.

I keep looking at this kit and wondering why? How much more
complicated could they have made the kit? Why didn't they make
parts that fit right out of the box? GRrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Chris Shaker

Originally Posted by timocharis
There may be a few more things the discriminating builder might want to know about this design before starting (or even buying).

Though much is made of not requiring tape (it is recommended to use some during the build, then remove it) the hinging system is far more difficult to install than just taping the surfaces on. Over 20 little tabs have to be glued into various surfaces -- and the method suggested by the instructions will almost certainly result in misalignment (not of the connections, but of the tabs themselves inside the foam -- or protruding, as the case may be). You'll probably have better luck just slipping them in between the coating layers, then sliding the tube in to align. One welcome result though: no sanding bevels on the control surfaces. Good thing, since the foamcorish material is not easily worked. You will be required to sand the fuse support bevels.

Dave North
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