May 12, 2007, 02:41 AM
Joined Jun 2005
Build part 6 Cutting the Bays
Here is my take on this process. I prefer to cut the Coroplast lid shelf before I do anything else. The main reason is because its much more difficult to cut the shelf once the bays are cut. It can be done, but I have much less control over the router.
I have marked the places to be routed with a green marker just so its easier to see in the pics what I am cutting. (Pic one)
I set the Dremel router to 2mm depth. I do a few test runs on a scrap to verify the depth is correct.
Then I cut in between the lines! Nothing to it! The only spot caution should be taken is at the leading edge an inch to each side of the root at the peak. Do not press down in this area! For some reason the cutter seems to cut deeper in this spot. So just float the cutter over this area! All done with the shelf, only took a few minutes.(pic three)
Now for the bays. You can use the router bit for this or use CK's method. I use CK's method because it cauterizes the foam as it cuts which seems to add some strength. Pic four shows the custom tool used to cut the bays. Its simply a piece of 12g copper wire formed into the desired shape. Nothing fancy! Be sure to get plenty of practice with this tool before attacking the wing.
Now practice with the soldering gun on some scrap. You just melt out between the lines. For a first timer you should only take a little bit at a time. Then check the thickness of the floor and and take a little more. The depth of the cut really depends on the batts you plan to use.( Keep the Batts under 25mm thickness.)
Now if you so happen to cut to deep, don't worry the fix is simple. Some even do this right off the bat if they know they will need the extra room for batteries and electronics. Basically you cut a shelf on the bottom of the wing just like you did for the coroplast lids. Slap in a piece of coro with some goop or hot glue and your good to go.
TaSaJaRa turned me onto a new idea and I gave it a shot. Seems to be effective. You basically spread a thin layer of goop on the batt bay floor and then press a piece of Henery's glass into it then smear some more on top. Sure it adds a bit of weight but the weight is ahead of the CG and you'll actually benifit from this. The added strength will also be a benifit. Pic 7
I forgot to draw out the velcro tabs earlier in the build so in pics 8-9 you can see the added tabs. I basically cut the velcro tabs 4mm deep. There is also an alternative way to do the tabs but I wanted to try something new.
Installing the lids
This part is easy. Measure out the lid for the battery bay, making sure that the flutes are running left to right. Test fit the lid, once satisfied go about 1/2 to 2/3rds back and carefully cut one half of the flute, look at pic 11 to get a visual. Make sure the door opens wide enough for your batts to fit in. This will be the hinge on your battery bay. I also mark the top of the lid so I don't glue it in backwards.
I like to take the leading edge, bend and hold it for a bit, basically forming it to the shape of the airfoil.(pic 12)
You can now use a hot glue gun to secure the lids. Pic 13
The electronics bay has the same principle but instead of having one large bay door, you should cut smaller access panels as shown in pic 16. The picture should be pretty self explanatory. This method was noted to add a bit more strength to the center of the wing compared to one big bay door. Glue the lid on, and your finished with the bays!
The antenna can be permanently secured in the wing by making a slit and tucking it in or you can use a plastic tube available at the hobby shop, same stuff thats in the gold N rod. Before glueing the lid on, make a groove with your dremel from bay to tip(pic 17-19) Do not glue this tube in until the Golden Rods are secured, but before the lid is attached. Later when your ready to install the gear use some music wire, etc. to fish the antenna through the tube! Replacing a reciever is now simple!
Last edited by Atom1025; Jun 10, 2007 at 01:16 AM.