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Old Dec 28, 2006, 08:07 PM
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Dunedin, New Zealand
Joined Dec 2006
23 Posts

A reply to GWSLAWNDART regarding the 'ideal' building-board. Obtain some warp-free 'base' material and glue a matrix of cork floor-tiles to it. When the tile-cement has dried, use an orbital-sander to take off any high-spots. Varnish or not, at your discretion. This thickness of cork-tiles holds all gauges of pins really well, even the very thin 'dressmakers' variety (eg 'glass-headed'). If the backing is somewhat harder plywood or similar, the pin-points may be trapped in that. I have used a similar board to this for years. it's inherently self-healing and in the event of a 'ding', say while drilling, the faulty spot is easily able to be removed by a piece of sharpened brass tube.
Cut an identical 'replacement' part from an undamaged tile using the same cutter, sand off any high-spots after gluing-in, and you are back in business. If you want something which really 'holds' pins, go for the largest obtainable size of chef's LDPE cutting-board. This holds pins 'like there's no tomorrow' and is ideal for those laminating-jobs which really place stress on the pins.

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Last edited by artsmith; Dec 28, 2006 at 08:10 PM. Reason: bad spacing on original copy
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