View Single Post
Old May 15, 2005, 06:00 PM
David Winter is offline
Find More Posts by David Winter
'Riders fan.
David Winter's Avatar
Vancouver, British Columbia
Joined Mar 2004
1,165 Posts
The GWS glue takes a few hours to cure. Once it's ready to be handled apply more lightweight spackle to the seams of the fuselage, any dents or bumps you see, and double check the ejection pin marks on the wing. Let the spackle cure overnight.

Sand all parts down with 150 to 200 paper. When sanding down the wings, pay special attention to the leading edge. During the part creation process thin slices of foam (called flash) are left behind. this is due to small amounts of foam squeezing inbetween the top and bottom parts of the steel mold as the foam is injected. The leading edge of the wing will work better in the air if it has a nice rounded surface to it. So remove the flash and sand the leading edge so it's rounded.

Next we're ready for our first go at fibreglassing.

Glassing.

At first glassing a model seems a little intimidating but really it's rather simple. And the fact we're using a slow drying polycrylic with no oder really helps. When I build my scale ship models I use fiberglass resin and man, that stuff really reaks.

Start with a simple part. The horizontal stab works well as it's the smallest, and simpliest part. I generally don't remove the control surfaces from the parts until after glassing. But that's intirely up to you. The layout of some control surface mechanics may make it easier to build the control surfaces before glassing (the ailerons on the Corsair for example).

Cut the glass sheet so that the material is slighly larger than the part. I generally try to keep with in 5CM of the outside of the part, following the contour. This gets tricky with the lightweight material as it doesn't cut very well.
David Winter is offline Find More Posts by David Winter
Last edited by David Winter; May 15, 2005 at 06:29 PM.
Reply With Quote